LS1TECH - View Single Post - Retro

Nova5 · 02-12-2009, 07:48 PM

Started with the factory craptastic sealed beams.
Lows
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Lowsondoor.jpg
Lows+Highs (4light system)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...shisondoor.jpg

Then got a Sealed Beam Conversion kit to allow 9006 and 9005 bulbs, hoping for better light.
Lows
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lowsondoor.jpg
Lows+Highs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lowsondoor.jpg

Well, it did improve the situation but they just don't rock the casba.
I've had the hid kit for around two years and could just never get around to it because I only had one vehicle. Couldn't afford to take it down for weeks as i worked on getting it installed. Now with a clean garage and company truck I can use its time to get to it.

HID projectors, ballasts and all. (e46 BiXenons)

Out and Shelved the old.

With the SBC's units and factory buckets out.

Sadly that's all the further I have gotten, migraine kicked in and forced me inside.

I hope to not have to cut any factory components so the original system can be reinstalled if ever needed. I will need to design and make a protective cover to close up the front of the headlight area. I have a sheet of lexan like material that should work, have to hold it in place somehow. I am thinking of using Mirror channel for that, paint it black and clear coat it so it should hide will. The problem is if it interferes with the beam, i will have to devise a different way. I am working in a very tight area for this installation. I think I can manage to keep all the factory stuff intact that isn't removable. Electrical power will come from a new fuse-buss and relay controlled. Don't trust the original lighting lines to supply enough power. Have to modify the projectors shroud slots to allow the shroud to be used upside down.

I found i have to put them in the High Beam location to get good side lighting, there will be significant overlap between them so there is no dark strip up the center. at 5ft from my garage door the light was starting to cross into the other headlight bays location. Using a Fuse Buss to provide power and will put in a pair of relays to trigger the lights, fortunatly their not part of the alarm systems light flash so I don't need to put a ignition controlled relay in.

16ga Wire should be enough to provide the needed amperage on a 15amp fuse. I've got a 8ga wire providing power to the Fuse Buss since i had extra of it from my stereo install.

Chevy and Bosch had to wire their headlight sockets different So i can't just plug in the stock jack, I have to use a vampire tape to get the relay trigger or find if its in the engine bay fuse box.

Got the mounting rig 99% done. I just have to finish grinding down a part to make it fit and JBweld some parts together. After this one is done its time to make up the other one.

I had planned on a 2 axis gimbal setup, found when i went looking I only need a single direction bracket - Vertical. Horizontal will be handled by the way i mount it to the car.

The aiming rig parts. Only one of which is used in the final version. Another was hacked up to provide other needed parts.

I used the larger bracket for making the Vertical aiming setup. the Longer one had its ends hacked off and used to make the two physical points for the adjustment screws. The one in the corner will have a threaded rod that is connected to a screw through a T-Nut (Threaded Rod will be JB welded to ensure it stays in place. Screw will be LocTite Blue so it can be broken free if needed.)

The T-Nut has to be ground down so that it has slightly less than half the flat area it does now. This will enable it to sit flush on the back of the projector housing and provide a nice collar through the hole to spin freely into the JB welded nut on the angled bracket in the rear. Nylon locknut so it should prevent the headlight from moving.

The bracket on the middle point is going to provide the horizontal aiming, by a threaded rod that is contacting the framework behind where the factory headlights were. Springs will provide enough tension so that they lights don't swing freely on the horizontal plane. The pivot point will be provided by a hole on the topsides near the corners of the top bracket and a matching hole plus a slot in the headlight frame area.

More to come tomorrow when i finish the first aiming rig. I'll give more detailed information on sizes and such as i build the second one since the first is working so well.

02-12-2009, 07:48 PM	#1
Nova5 TECH Enthusiast Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 571	Retro - BiXenon(HID) E46's in a 1997 Z28. Started with the factory craptastic sealed beams. Lows http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Lowsondoor.jpg Lows+Highs (4light system) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...shisondoor.jpg Then got a Sealed Beam Conversion kit to allow 9006 and 9005 bulbs, hoping for better light. Lows http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lowsondoor.jpg Lows+Highs http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lowsondoor.jpg Well, it did improve the situation but they just don't rock the casba. I've had the hid kit for around two years and could just never get around to it because I only had one vehicle. Couldn't afford to take it down for weeks as i worked on getting it installed. Now with a clean garage and company truck I can use its time to get to it. HID projectors, ballasts and all. (e46 BiXenons) Out and Shelved the old. With the SBC's units and factory buckets out. Sadly that's all the further I have gotten, migraine kicked in and forced me inside. I hope to not have to cut any factory components so the original system can be reinstalled if ever needed. I will need to design and make a protective cover to close up the front of the headlight area. I have a sheet of lexan like material that should work, have to hold it in place somehow. I am thinking of using Mirror channel for that, paint it black and clear coat it so it should hide will. The problem is if it interferes with the beam, i will have to devise a different way. I am working in a very tight area for this installation. I think I can manage to keep all the factory stuff intact that isn't removable. Electrical power will come from a new fuse-buss and relay controlled. Don't trust the original lighting lines to supply enough power. Have to modify the projectors shroud slots to allow the shroud to be used upside down. I found i have to put them in the High Beam location to get good side lighting, there will be significant overlap between them so there is no dark strip up the center. at 5ft from my garage door the light was starting to cross into the other headlight bays location. Using a Fuse Buss to provide power and will put in a pair of relays to trigger the lights, fortunatly their not part of the alarm systems light flash so I don't need to put a ignition controlled relay in. 16ga Wire should be enough to provide the needed amperage on a 15amp fuse. I've got a 8ga wire providing power to the Fuse Buss since i had extra of it from my stereo install. Chevy and Bosch had to wire their headlight sockets different So i can't just plug in the stock jack, I have to use a vampire tape to get the relay trigger or find if its in the engine bay fuse box. Got the mounting rig 99% done. I just have to finish grinding down a part to make it fit and JBweld some parts together. After this one is done its time to make up the other one. I had planned on a 2 axis gimbal setup, found when i went looking I only need a single direction bracket - Vertical. Horizontal will be handled by the way i mount it to the car. The aiming rig parts. Only one of which is used in the final version. Another was hacked up to provide other needed parts. I used the larger bracket for making the Vertical aiming setup. the Longer one had its ends hacked off and used to make the two physical points for the adjustment screws. The one in the corner will have a threaded rod that is connected to a screw through a T-Nut (Threaded Rod will be JB welded to ensure it stays in place. Screw will be LocTite Blue so it can be broken free if needed.) The T-Nut has to be ground down so that it has slightly less than half the flat area it does now. This will enable it to sit flush on the back of the projector housing and provide a nice collar through the hole to spin freely into the JB welded nut on the angled bracket in the rear. Nylon locknut so it should prevent the headlight from moving. The bracket on the middle point is going to provide the horizontal aiming, by a threaded rod that is contacting the framework behind where the factory headlights were. Springs will provide enough tension so that they lights don't swing freely on the horizontal plane. The pivot point will be provided by a hole on the topsides near the corners of the top bracket and a matching hole plus a slot in the headlight frame area. More to come tomorrow when i finish the first aiming rig. I'll give more detailed information on sizes and such as i build the second one since the first is working so well. __________________ Current Ride 1997 Z28, Black, A4, TTop 5.7L Retrofitted E46 HID Projectors. Flowmaster Exhaust, SLP UltraZ Ramair Hood w/airbox XM SatRad, Kenwood HU/Amp. K&N High Flow Airfilter. BMR Strut Tower Brace, Subframe Connectors. UMI Rear Lower Control Arms + Panhard Rod My Camaro Page - Updated 9/24/05 Last edited by Nova5; 02-12-2009 at 08:43 PM..