Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

My new clutch setup 5.5" tilton/quarter master

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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 06:42 AM
  #21  
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Yes it's a quater master trilite, no it's not heavy it weighs 17 lbs for the complete setup, yes it is a stock flex plate and no the car is no where near the 's. It can be a bitch to drive but it's liveable I mean come on my gf drives the car constantly and the gearbox is faceplated too.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 03:20 PM
  #22  
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Hey you wouldnt buy chance have the part number for that release bearing would you??
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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I"ll look for it . Gigapunk wants it too.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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Yah and if you can let me know what kind of adapter your using with it too that would be great!
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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PowerTrain Technology (PTT) makes organic discs now in the 5.5"

They are thicker though at .200" and actually hold more torque than the metallic discs!

Maybe something to look into?
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 09:44 PM
  #26  
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I'd hate to say your lying but how is it possible this clutch is still alive.(i'm more curious than trying accuse you)
From everything I know about small diameter clutches is that they have no inertia so it should be either an on off switch when engaging; hard to start off. Their isn't a lot of surface area so slipping this clutch will wear it out incredibly fast and get the clutch setup out of tollerance.

I would love to have a 17IB setup in my road racing car. I need this clarified. VRM VRM =)
Ronald
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 07:12 AM
  #27  
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Al the reps. I talked to said it would'nt last. I said it could'nt be worse than the spec or any other stock looking clutch on the market.... Soo I had a free one and figured I could'nt go wrong by spending a few hundred bucks to get the supporting products to try it. We run these clutches in our r.r. race cars for about a race season in the ALMS GT series under far worse conditons that it sees with me. Yes it's hard to slip at light throttle to take off, if you want a stock clutch don't do this. If your tired of your clutch going to mush and sticking to the floor then do this... This clutch is rebuildable so it may even save money in the long run. My girlfriend drives this car virtually every day do I need to repeat that to you boys worried about driveabity. I'm going to try other discs to try to soften it up a bit when these wear out ..... I don't know when that will be although the discs are showing signs of wear. The clutch has lots of feel and is very slippable when I do quick luanches on the street under power. this setup will FIX sticking peddle issues, not just a bandade like changing out the hydraulics or trying to rap everything with heat shield. The hyd. release bearing cannot be used with the stock type clutch. I know there are lots of people on here that thinks the oe style hyd release bearing is the problem... trust me it's not..... Neither is the master, I'm using a master that has been in the car for 7 years.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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I'll stick with my Tex....

Never slips, and drives pretty much like stock.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #29  
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It's advertised that a button clutch can be worth more than half a second in the quarter. If you're willing to rebuild the clutch every so often, and don't need full on stock engagement, that's hard to ignore.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
It's advertised that a button clutch can be worth more than half a second in the quarter. If you're willing to rebuild the clutch every so often, and don't need full on stock engagement, that's hard to ignore.

I wouldnt believe everything you read.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 04:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I wouldnt believe everything you read.
Never have. That's why I specifically said that they are "advertised" as such, not that it was a fact.

That being said.

A stock Ls2 clutch has a rotational moment of inertia of about >3500 while a button clutch and flywheel could easily be <500 lbs in^2. That's freaking huge. You would have to have magically weightless rods and pistons to get the same affect on rotational acceleration. There is a reason that every single race clutch manufacture reccomends using the smallest diameter clutch that your series rules/heat capacity requirements allow.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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It was a noticeable difference how the car responds when I jump on the gas. The engine acts like there's nothing holding it back now... It loves to rev
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #33  
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I'm necroposting the hell out of this.....

I'd like to know exactly what you used. What you had to modify etc... I've been looking into something like this recently and remembered there was an older thread about it ie this one.

What type of clutch did you end up with? I've been looking at quartermaster's website a lot and trying to figure things out.

I found this other thread in the parts for sale section that kind of outlined the cost and items used:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...ted-parts.html
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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In the last year or so SPEC has come out with their new mini-twin, that has a light weight option. Their normal twin has gotten rave reviews at the last shop I worked at where quite a few have been installed. Something to consider?
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 03:13 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
In the last year or so SPEC has come out with their new mini-twin, that has a light weight option. Their normal twin has gotten rave reviews at the last shop I worked at where quite a few have been installed. Something to consider?
I honestly didn't know that those existed. I just checked them out and they look quite nice. I'd like to know the weights on them and if they accept OEM style hydraulics. Performance wise that isn't exactly an advantage, but price wise it is. They clutches themselves are pretty reasonably priced. I wish they would explain the trims / material options better. I found a decent link about it that gave me a rough idea, but it was in regards to BMWs.

From what I am gathering:
E Twin Disk = Iron Compound / Torque Capacity = 1795
ST Twin Disk = Full-Faced Carbon Semi-Metallic Compound / Torque Capacity = 1595
P Twin Disk = Carbon Graphite Compound / Torque Capacity = 1395
SS Twin Disk = Organic Compound / Torque Capacity = 900
R Twin Disk = ??? / Torque Capacity = 800
D Twin Disk = ??? / Torque Capacity = 800
X Triple Disk = ??? / Torque Capacity = 1200

Before realizing this unit was out I was looking at either a quarter master 7.25 triple carbon disk setup, a single, or dual 8.5 disk with aluminum flywheel. I like the setup Project GatTagO had in his old LS1 RX7. It was a single 8.5 disk setup that only weighed 22 lbs complete with flywheel.

Here's that link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...ht-clutch.html
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 05:22 PM
  #36  
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TTT,

This will give you guys something to think about
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 05:39 PM
  #37  
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LOl....I'm still running it.
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 09:04 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
LOl....I'm still running it.
How's this set up working out for you? Been doing alot of research lately
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #39  
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It's working great. Iv'e been running it almost 7 years now.
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
It's working great. Iv'e been running it almost 7 years now.
Awesome. That's what I like to hear. How many times have you had to rebuild it?
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