[dlove]

What is a Purge Valve?
This comes up alot, especially with the newer nitrous junkies. Purge is probably the most un-necessary part of a nitrous system. Its more useful in a Wet application so the fuel and nitrous get to the nozzle at the same time, but its still not mandatory unless youre running a large shot or need that extra .01 sec. All a Purge does is clear the air between the bottle and the solenoids. That being said, its best to put the Purge solenoid as close to the nitrous solenoid as possable to get rid of as much air as you can. But at 1200psi, the nitrous isnt moving that slow, so its not going to take long to clear that air on it's own anyway. If you havent purchased one, dont yet. Add this last to your kit and get something more useful now like a warmer or a window switch. If you already have one or nobody can talk you out of it, dont overuse it. Nothing will make you look like a ricer faster then someone who purges whenever they pull up somewhere. Thats like taking a gallon of your gas and pouring it on the ground. At ~$2.00/lb, nitrous isnt cheap. Why waste it? The ONLY time you should need to purge is right before staging at the strip. A couple short bursts is all it takes. Once you see the white gas come out, thats enough. Purging more then that is the equivalent to doing a John Force burnout on BFGs. And PLEASE PLEASE DONT buy the bottle and a purge valve only. I was flipping through 5.0 Mustang mag this week and saw an advertisment for a kit (NX I believe) that was just a bottle and a purge valve... :dance:

How will nitrous work on a high milage motor?
It all depends on how it's maintained. On my first 5.0, I had over 200k on the clock and was spraying a 100 dry shot at the track. I didnt have much blowby, so it was safe. My motor did die, but not because of the nitrous. My oil pump shaft broke. But as long as the motor isnt beat to hell, nitrous should be ok on it.

Why nitrous?
Forced induction guys will always give us hell because we have to turn ours on, but thats the beauty. Nitrous is GREAT for a daily driver. You can drive a 350hp car around every day making 27mpg and go to work/school/mall/ect and have fun. Go to the track, flip a switch, BAM, 150 more horses. Now youre racing with ~500hp on a car that can be driven daily with confidence. Also, you can run higher compression. Nitrous loves high compression motors. Nitrous motors generally make the best street cars because of this. With turbos or blowers, sure you can turn down the boost or pulley down, but even then, you still have a hot air charge (even with an intercooler, the air is hot enough to cook an egg) and most blown motors have low compression. Low boost on a low compression motor=no fun

What do I need with the kit?
This depends on what you get. Most people will get a simple Wet or Dry kit. If youre getting a fogger or direct port, I hope you dont have to read FAQ. You can custom build your own kit, but if this is your first, I suggest buying a pre-packaged one. TNT is good, so are NOS and NX. There is also Zex. Some love it, some hate it. I'll stay away from it and tune my nitrous myself. A prepackaged kit should come with a Bottle, Nitrous feed line, proper solenoids (type depending on the kit wet/dry), power relay for the solenoids, jet(s), AN fittings, nitrous injection line, nozzle, and a bottle bracket. This is the bare minimum. It will work, but not as well as a nicely modified kit. First, before you can even think about running, you have to find out what your track rules are. If they have NHRA rules, you will need a blowdown tube for your bottle. This evacuates the nitrous out of the car in the even the valve on the bottle fails. If you have a convertable, you wont need it since the bottle is not in the passenger compartment, but its still recomended. Next is a bottle warmer. If you want the most out of your kit, this is what you need. This will keep your bottle at a fixed pressure so you have consistent results. Without a warmer, nitrous is near impossable to tune because when you first fill the bottle, you might have 900psi, but after a couple runs you might be down to 750psi. A warmer will SAFELY warm the bottle to raise the pressure to 900psi again. A warmer kit will come with a relay. USE IT! This will help keep it from overheating. Seperately from nitrous components, you will need colder plugs with a smaller gap. 1 or 2 ranges colder is usually acceptable for a shot on a stock motor.

What can I add to it?
There are so many things you can add to a nitrous kit. A few are a window switch, timing knob, activation switches, purge, opener, etc.
A window switch will only allow the system to engage inside a certain RPM window. You NEVER want to spray in the low RPM, this is very bad for the motor. Generally wait until at least 2000rpm. The window switch is useful for keeping the timing of the injection in check. If you miss a shift and nail the gas, the nitrous will re-engage and damage the motor. if you have it pilled from 2000-6500, the nitrous will shut off when the motor reaches 6500rpm. A timing knob is used to retard the timing without getting out of the car. It is used in conjunction with an ignition box and will allow you to adjust the timing easily. If you are running N/A, you can have the timing advanced. But if you go to the track and are going to spray, just twist the knob back to take some timing out of it and youre good to go. There are various activation switches used with a nitrous kit. First is the arming switch. Without this on, nothing will happen (unless you suck at wiring). But to actually fire the nitrous system, you can use a WOT (Wide open throttle) switch or a push botton. These are the 2 most common used. A WOT switch only fires when the pedal is on the floor. That way if the nitrous is armed, with or without a window switch, nothing will happen until the pedal gets to the floor. A push button is just that. When you push it, the nitrous fires. A remote opener is ideal for the street. Its not very useful at the track since you usually have prep time, but on the street you dont. Im not endorsing street racing, but if you do, a remote opener is for you. It allows you to keep the actual valve of the bottle open without keeping pressure on the solenoids. If you pull up next to someone who wants to race, just flip a switch to open up the bottle and youre ready to go.


Here are some general DOs and DON'Ts with N2O
-DO keep the bottle pressure constant when in use
-DON'T use anything less then Premium Unleaded
-DO run a fuel pressure safety switch on a Dry nitrous kit
-DON'T always go by the jetting listed on websites
-DO learn to read the plug's heat range and tune it yourself
-DON'T open the bottle and leave it for long periods of time, the pressure is bad for the solenoids
-DO always purge off the excess N2O after shutting off the bottle for the day



Push System

regulator that can control that pressure can get pricey. I have a few at home. Usually in the $200-400 range depeing on brand and specs. I used to just use a regulator but the regulator itself is a flow restriction that hinders recovery time when spraying large shots.

So i switched form the regulator method the a pressure switch.solinoid method that was cheaper and somewhats easier.

It goes like this:
You need a nitrous bottle with a valve that has ports in the nech that are open to the top of the bottle internally. Seperate from the pickup tube. This will aloow nitrous pressure to be deliverd to the top of the liquid and not interfere with the delivery of the nitrous out the pickup tube at the bottom.

If you have one port you will need to Tee it off so that a pressure switch such as the dynotune pressure switch used in theie autmatic bottle heater setups can be used. You can get the switch only from dynotune for about $40. That switch will be open to the pressure in the neck.

You will need a bottle about equal to the size of the nitrous bottle you are running. That will keep you from having to use too high of a practical pressure in the nitrogen bottle to drive an entire nitrous bottle out. in between the nitrogen bottle and the nitrous bottle you need a Dedenbear C02 noid PN 302ABSOV. You can get that from Jegs or summit for about $130. That noid will control the flow of nitrogen from the nitrogen bottle into the nitrous bottle when the pressure gets below the setpoint of the pressure switch.

So...when its all setup you have a nitrogen bottle at 2000 psi. You have a fully serviced nitrous bottle at say 800 psi at 70 degrees. We obviously want more pressure. So You flip the switch sending the power to the pressure switch. The contacts are closed since the pressure in the nitrous bottle is at 800 psi which is below the 1050 psi that you have set your pressure switch to. That sends power to the noid....opening it. Nitrogen flows from the nitrogen bottle to the nitrous bottle building a head pressure above the nitrous. When the pressure in the nitrous bottle reaches 1050 psi the contacts open on the pressure switch removing power from the noid...the noid closes..nitrogen stops flowing. You are now set at 1050 psi and your system is awaiting any pressure drop in the nitrous bottle. As soon as it drops below the pressure switch setting of 1050 +/- approz 25 psi the system will again replenish the nitrous bottle.

It can also be setup to be controlled my the MaximizerII as well in the same manner.