New remote power steering reservoir and cooler options
New remote power steering reservoir and cooler options I've been working on a solution for the power steering fluid heat issue. A remote aluminum tank is the first thing. The second is a two part solution.
A Ron Davis radiator with a built in transmission cooler. You can use the trans cooler for the power steering fluid. You kill two birds with one stone this way.
The remote tank alone might not be enough for cooling and cheap air coolers arent effective unless there are in direct airflow. That means interferance with aerodynamics or blocking airflow to the radiator. A built in cooler in the radiator handles it perfectly.
OR I offer a 7 plate heat extractor for $370 that will handle it perfectly but I realize this is not in everyones budget.
For the ultimate protection an oil cooler in the radiator and a dual 14 plate heat extractor or two 7 plates with handle just about all your fluid heat needs.
This is the reservoir:
A Ron Davis radiator with a built in transmission cooler. You can use the trans cooler for the power steering fluid. You kill two birds with one stone this way.
The remote tank alone might not be enough for cooling and cheap air coolers arent effective unless there are in direct airflow. That means interferance with aerodynamics or blocking airflow to the radiator. A built in cooler in the radiator handles it perfectly.
OR I offer a 7 plate heat extractor for $370 that will handle it perfectly but I realize this is not in everyones budget.
For the ultimate protection an oil cooler in the radiator and a dual 14 plate heat extractor or two 7 plates with handle just about all your fluid heat needs.
This is the reservoir:
Yep there are air coolers that mount anywhere you need them to and as long as they get good airflow they should be effective. How much they cool I dont know, I havent done the testing. I've seen them from $75 and up though and can point someone in the right direction.
Finally! someone has started looking at something like this.
This a true remote tank, correct? Or does it replace the plastic tank, attaching directly to the PS pump inlet?
If it's a true remote location tank, what do have to do to feed fluid from the tank to the pump's inlet?
I see An fittings on the tank, so I assume there is an AN fitting adaptor for the pump?
What is the capacity of the tank compared to the plastic tank?
Is there any internal baffling to reduce foaming of the return fluid?
How well does the cap seal?
Any installs? It's kind of crowded on the side of the car. Where to mount it in order to keep the tank above the inlet of the pump?
This a true remote tank, correct? Or does it replace the plastic tank, attaching directly to the PS pump inlet?
If it's a true remote location tank, what do have to do to feed fluid from the tank to the pump's inlet?
I see An fittings on the tank, so I assume there is an AN fitting adaptor for the pump?
What is the capacity of the tank compared to the plastic tank?
Is there any internal baffling to reduce foaming of the return fluid?
How well does the cap seal?
Any installs? It's kind of crowded on the side of the car. Where to mount it in order to keep the tank above the inlet of the pump?
Great questions!
Yes it is a true tank. It can sit where ever you want it to, I havent chose one spot for it, everyone like to put them in different spots. I'll make the lines accordingly.
It has 3 mouting points 2 on the backside and one on the bottom.
Its utilizes true power steering hose, (2250 psi) and -an fittings. It will be a fitting to attach to the pump. Pressure fitting, no cutting threads involved. I am looking at either Earls plumbing fittinings or Goodridge, the Russell would have huge costs to the unit. they seem to be the most expensive around..LOL
I have not calulated volume yet, it is how ever slightly bigger than the factory tank so it should hold more but it baffled. I'll get the math going and figure volume and post it
Yes there is internal baffling to help with foaming.
The cap seals excellent! Its threaded with an o-ring and does have a pressure release system in the cap.
No installs yet, this is the prototype. My supplier had gone back to England for a few weeks and is due back today. I should have 7 units on the shelf here in the next 4-6 weeks. I am sorry about that, I wish I could have got them ready for the begining of the season
Yes it is a true tank. It can sit where ever you want it to, I havent chose one spot for it, everyone like to put them in different spots. I'll make the lines accordingly.
It has 3 mouting points 2 on the backside and one on the bottom.
Its utilizes true power steering hose, (2250 psi) and -an fittings. It will be a fitting to attach to the pump. Pressure fitting, no cutting threads involved. I am looking at either Earls plumbing fittinings or Goodridge, the Russell would have huge costs to the unit. they seem to be the most expensive around..LOL
I have not calulated volume yet, it is how ever slightly bigger than the factory tank so it should hold more but it baffled. I'll get the math going and figure volume and post it
Yes there is internal baffling to help with foaming.
The cap seals excellent! Its threaded with an o-ring and does have a pressure release system in the cap.
No installs yet, this is the prototype. My supplier had gone back to England for a few weeks and is due back today. I should have 7 units on the shelf here in the next 4-6 weeks. I am sorry about that, I wish I could have got them ready for the begining of the season
Well originally it was not more than 220 shipped but the fittings are so darn expensive I dont think I can come in for that now. I'm working on it though. Quality at a reasonable price is my goal. I've seen kit's out there that are similar but are 400-550. I can make them with a bigger tank to hold more fluid. Do you think that would be a good idea? If it was 2 inches taller?
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You have to keep the tank above the PS pump inlet. Need the head pressure as it's a gravity feed. Packaging might be your biggest hurdle. With ABS, Fuse block and Master Cylinder all jammed in that side, it will be a tight squeeze. 2 inches is a LOT ... if you can make it work ...
I replaced the plastic tank on my LT1 with a KRC unit, using -6AN return and a -10AN feed line. I've used a double seal on the twist on cap and I still get blow by.
But the tank works great and the aluminum acts as a great heat sync ...
Have discussed with RDR using the trans cooler in the side tank as a heat exchanger?
An advantage trans lines have is that they are typically in long runs of metal lines which aid tremendously in cooling. Also, many times, the tubing of the heat exchanger is so small, that it creates too much back pressure and the pump relief valve by-passes the pressurized fluid back to the reservoir or into recirc. This ads a LOT of heat.
By lowering the static pressures, Turn One has been able to reduce heat generated by the pump significantly
I replaced the plastic tank on my LT1 with a KRC unit, using -6AN return and a -10AN feed line. I've used a double seal on the twist on cap and I still get blow by.
But the tank works great and the aluminum acts as a great heat sync ...
Have discussed with RDR using the trans cooler in the side tank as a heat exchanger?
An advantage trans lines have is that they are typically in long runs of metal lines which aid tremendously in cooling. Also, many times, the tubing of the heat exchanger is so small, that it creates too much back pressure and the pump relief valve by-passes the pressurized fluid back to the reservoir or into recirc. This ads a LOT of heat.
By lowering the static pressures, Turn One has been able to reduce heat generated by the pump significantly
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 305
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I just finished this install about a month ago. My engine bay isn't the same as the 4th gen's, but you may find room to put the reservoir somewhere close to the pump. From my research, you don't want too much of an incline from the reservoir back to the pump. The return line should be at least -10 and as short as possible.
The problem with the reservoir pictured, is the inlet and outlet on the bottom; this will inevitably lead to an uphill return line. I started off with a reservoir like this and I had to change my plans when I was almost done!
Here's my set-up:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...750&highlight=
The problem with the reservoir pictured, is the inlet and outlet on the bottom; this will inevitably lead to an uphill return line. I started off with a reservoir like this and I had to change my plans when I was almost done!
Here's my set-up:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...750&highlight=
Last edited by a10beav; Jul 1, 2008 at 10:40 PM.
Isnt the return line under pressure? Isn't it uphill in its oem state? Note the black tank and the fitting locations.. they're the same.
It's a gravity feed but its under pressure for the return. I've been busy with other things so this has been on the back burner.
This significance of this mod would be better cooling for the ps fluid as well as asthetics. Plus certain FI applications require the Ps to be moved.
I'm also looking at a more efficient cooling system. My aluminum tank is also baffled.
It's a gravity feed but its under pressure for the return. I've been busy with other things so this has been on the back burner.
This significance of this mod would be better cooling for the ps fluid as well as asthetics. Plus certain FI applications require the Ps to be moved.
I'm also looking at a more efficient cooling system. My aluminum tank is also baffled.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Jul 2, 2008 at 10:31 AM.
I just finished this install about a month ago. My engine bay isn't the same as the 4th gen's, but you may find room to put the reservoir somewhere close to the pump. From my research, you don't want too much of an incline from the reservoir back to the pump. The return line should be at least -10 and as short as possible.
The problem with the reservoir pictured, is the inlet and outlet on the bottom; this will inevitably lead to an uphill return line. I started off with a reservoir like this and I had to change my plans when I was almost done!
Here's my set-up:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...750&highlight=
The problem with the reservoir pictured, is the inlet and outlet on the bottom; this will inevitably lead to an uphill return line. I started off with a reservoir like this and I had to change my plans when I was almost done!
Here's my set-up:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...750&highlight=
What flow rate and pressures did you decide on?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
This is just to keep the steering fluid cool under track use, for daily driving it's not needed. If you use DOT 5 fluid, then you probably don't need this either.
The return line really isn't under pressure. The fuild is forced into the reservoir, but the pump has to suck it in and it isn't designed to create that much suction; that's why the stock reservoirs sit on top of the pump.
Although the two tanks pictured have both fittings on the bottom, you would have to find a way to mount the aluminum tank on top of the pump. If you want a remote reservoir then you need to try and keep the return line level or downhill.
Yea, I don't recommend sending them anything. I don't remember what the output is now, they didn't send me any documents to back up their work.
Although the two tanks pictured have both fittings on the bottom, you would have to find a way to mount the aluminum tank on top of the pump. If you want a remote reservoir then you need to try and keep the return line level or downhill.
Yea, I don't recommend sending them anything. I don't remember what the output is now, they didn't send me any documents to back up their work.
Last edited by a10beav; Jul 2, 2008 at 10:57 PM.
The return line really isn't under pressure. The fuild is forced into the reservoir, but the pump has to suck it in and it isn't designed to create that much suction; that's why the stock reservoirs sit on top of the pump.
Although the two tanks pictured have both fittings on the bottom, you would have to find a way to mount the aluminum tank on top of the pump. If you want a remote reservoir then you need to try and keep the return line level or downhill.
A remote reservoir just needs to be up hill of the pump to proivde the gravity feed to it, the retun line is a moot point as far as mounting location. Its the feed that is important.
My setup mimics the factory setup, location of the tank is a non issue as long as it sits higher than the pump.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Jul 3, 2008 at 12:23 AM.
Sorry to butt in, but I just installed my own remote power steering cooler about 10 minutes ago. It is mounted level with the bottom of the radiator. Does it matter which way I plug the factory hoses into it? Would it make it easier to have the return line to the pump going into the bottom or top of the cooler or does it not really matter?
On a good note, I let the car warm up and idle for about 10 minutes and the fluid was significantly cooler than it was when I did this test the other day with the factory cooler. Wish I had some way to get exact temp readings, but I had to go with the ol "stick your finger in the fluid and see how hot it is" method.
On a good note, I let the car warm up and idle for about 10 minutes and the fluid was significantly cooler than it was when I did this test the other day with the factory cooler. Wish I had some way to get exact temp readings, but I had to go with the ol "stick your finger in the fluid and see how hot it is" method.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 305
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I'm not sure it really matters, but I'd make the inlet on top and the outlet on the bottom.
What type of cooler did you use if you mounted it next to the radiator? It may not workas good, because it's still trapped in the heat of the engine bay.
What type of cooler did you use if you mounted it next to the radiator? It may not workas good, because it's still trapped in the heat of the engine bay.
Its mounted even with the radiator, not on it. I mounted it out in front of everything, no way any engine heat is going to effect it.