Anyone try this on a Trans Am/Formula? I have a 1996 Formula and I was thinking of doing this. The stock headlights are just horrible and this would be a great improvement.
If anyone has a link to a thread on this forum, please post that. I have tried to search, but nothing.
Thanks, Greg
I found some more pics of the red LT1 TA. Since the stock lights are dual element you will either need to use a Bi-Xenon or else put some high beams somewhere else like the fogs area (if it's legal?). He used a plastic housing, cut the hole in front and cut most of the rear off as well. The bi-xenon he used is much deeper so he had to cut some of the metal behind the light in order to get it to fit.
Soulpower, why did you choose the C6 lights? Are they good units, do you know who makes them? Maybe you got a good deal on them so that's why you used them? I'm curious because they are new and I don't know what lights these are nor can there be many available used. Did you get them new?
I don't know if it would be worth the $300 to do it. I've seen people add white bulbs to it and it looked nice and white. It's also hard to say if there is a HID bulb available that would fit in the socket. Do you know what bulb size it takes?
ok ok!! mm why did i choose the C6. mmmm coz i tought if im goiing to put some HID i guess is better if i do it with a GM HID and because i get a deal on hi & low projectors, actually i get the C6 unit, and i have to take the projectos out of the unit!! and yes they are new!!
mmm no i dont thing it woth spend $300 or more in just a fogligth but thats why i said maybe in the future, for now, i will try to get the white bulbs, then maybe next year i get the HID
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonWW
I found some more pics of the red LT1 TA. Since the stock lights are dual element you will either need to use a Bi-Xenon or else put some high beams somewhere else like the fogs area (if it's legal?). He used a plastic housing, cut the hole in front and cut most of the rear off as well. The bi-xenon he used is much deeper so he had to cut some of the metal behind the light in order to get it to fit.
yeap for the TA Lt1 you have to cut a little bit, like this pic!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Looks pretty sick Soulpower. I'm lookin forward to some night pics
ths man, i have some pics but i guess i can take a better ones, will see tomorrow!!
i really need to take more nigth pics, sorry bros, but this pics, it does´t show how cool they look! but anyways i promise tonigth i´ll take bette photos!!
I work for GM and get employee pricing, but my cost would still be over a thousand dollars per headlight from a Cadillac with projectors. I just don't see how you were able to get the C6 lights so cheap. I haven't priced them, but surely they cost more than $200 each.
I went with the BMW E46 projectors because they are probably the best low beams out there and they were under $180 for a pair of used ones. Similar bi-xenon are a maybe $250 or so. That's why most folks get the used ones from late model cars.
Anyway, I'm just waiting for Photobucket to get back on line so I can see your pics. They are usually very reliable.
I can finally see your pics now. It looks like you have serious problem.
Is this the low beam?
If so, it looks like the projector is mounted upside down. All the light should be aimed downward on the ground. No light at all should be aimed higher than 3ft in the front. If it did it would blind oncoming drivers. This is what the light pattern should look like with a sharp cutoff line on top.
The little metal shield that cuts the beam in half goes on the bottom. All of the light that passes through will bounce of the top of the reflector, over the shield and then go downward to the road.
Here's one of my pics with the projector in the correct orientation. Shield is on the bottom.
When the light goes through the lens on the end it will get flipped. So you want the light to go out the top, over the shield, so that it will be flipped and light up the lower road area. No light (or very little light) should be seen above the windshield area. Stand in front of your car at night about 25 or 50 ft away. Now bend down to where your head would be if you were driving past yourself. Do the lights get in your eye? Or have a friend drive by you in the opposite direction. Can he see OK when passing?
Here are some pics that might help. Note the light beam is labeled #1
The little metal shield that cuts the beam in half goes on the bottom. All of the light that passes through will bounce of the top of the reflector, over the shield and then go downward to the road.
Here's one of my pics with the projector in the correct orientation. Shield is on the bottom.
When the light goes through the lens on the end it will get flipped. So you want the light to go out the top, over the shield, so that it will be flipped and light up the lower road area. No light (or very little light) should be seen above the windshield area. Stand in front of your car at night about 25 or 50 ft away. Now bend down to where your head would be if you were driving past yourself. Do the lights get in your eye? Or have a friend drive by you in the opposite direction. Can he see OK when passing?
Here are some pics that might help. Note the light beam is labeled #1
yeaph you are right! i have them upside down!
today i will fix them, and tonigth will see how it looks!
Sorry you have to redo it, I thought you would be more upset. It does give you a chance to get them just right. I would set the headlight housings to the middle of their adjustment and then get the lights as close as possible to where they are supposed to be aimed at and then seal them into place.
Another thing you can do is add some shields on the sides and top and bottom of the projector to reduce some of that scattered light you are getting. A lot of folks use a real thin sheetmetal. It will give you a more defined and sharper light beam.
Another tip is to take the bulb out and then take a hooked shaped tool and stick it in the bulb hole and bend the shield slightly forward or backward to get the cutoff line sharper. You may also get some nice blue color around the cutoff line.
Here's a pic I whipped up that shows how the lights should be aimed.
Yeah it did look a little funny with the crisp line on the bottom. Get it worked out and decide if you want to make some money doing this for other people! How much would ya charge?
Very nice ride and pics of these C6 lights on it, but should get all 4 Xenon, if u see what I mean, anyways looks good!
Xenon is not good for high beams. They take maybe 10 seconds or so to turn on and then several minutes to warm up, so flashing your highs to pass or something would be torture on them. That's why the OEM's don't use xenon for the highs unless they use a movable shield to change the light pattern from low beam to high beam.
i noticed that my foglights have the same very sharp cut out as the pictures above. are the stock blazer foglights projectors? if so would there be any reason why you couldnt use them as the low beams?
i noticed that my foglights have the same very sharp cut out as the pictures above. are the stock blazer foglights projectors? if so would there be any reason why you couldnt use them as the low beams?
The camaro fog lights are projectors. The opening was so small that projectors were the only thing GM could fit in there.
If you are talking about pulling them out and mounting them into the factory headlight housing, I would not recommend it. They are small, cheap units that do not produce a lot of light. The reflector shape is also designed to push the light to the sides more because it is a fog light. I would only use a high quality projector to put in the headlight housings. They are not expensive, $120-$200 for a pair of good ones.
If you mean leave them in the stock location and use them as low beams, no. There are height restrictions for lowbeams. The factory fog location is way too low. They wouldn't light up much of the road anyway mounted low.