Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher FAQ
01-17-2005, 04:38 PM
#1
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher FAQ When someone starts a thread about buying a new Porter Cable dual action polisher, there always seems to be a few questions about what to buy and how to use it. I wanted to make this post as a sort of “buyer’s guide” for those who are interested in purchasing a polisher, but aren’t sure what else they’ll need. This guide is based entirely on my personal experience, so I only mention products I have used. My hope is that other people will reply to this thread with their experiences, so we can get an idea of more of the vast myriad of products available.
The polisher itself:
There are two model numbers for the Porter Cable dual action polisher. These are 7424 and 7336. The 7336 is sold as an orbital sander, but is the exact same tool as the 7424. Meguiars also sells the same polisher. The kit comes with one white finishing pad, but it is the type that threads directly into the polisher. This brings us to the flexible backing plate.
Flexible backing plate:
The flexible backing plate is an accessory that is sold separately from the polisher, but is a must for anyone who buys the polisher for use with their cars. Simply put, the flexible backing plate is a hard rubber disc with an attached sheet of the “hook” side of Velcro. It threads into the polisher, and allows you to quickly change foam pads. They come in various sizes, but the 6” backing plate is the most commonly used size for the foam pads.
Foam pads:
There are various sizes and densities of foam pads available for use with the Porter Cable polisher. The two most common sizes are 6” and 7.5”. For a beginner, the 6” pad is the best choice, as its small size allows you more control. As your become more familiar with the polisher, you can try the 7.5” pads. There are also two main manufacturers of these foam pads: Lake Country Manufacturing and Sonus. Both are conceptually the same: a foam rubber pad which has a “loop” side of Velcro attached to the back. When mated to the flexible backing plate, it forms a good grip on the polisher, while offering easy removal. The density of the pad is directly related to the amount of “cut”, or cleaning ability of the pad. Also, these pads are slightly concave, which helps reduce splatter of the polish or wax you are applying. They are color coded, to make the choice easier.
Sonus Yellow/Lake Country Mfg Yellow:
Also referred to as a “compounding” pad, the yellow pad is the most aggressive foam pad for the polisher. It has a slightly rough texture to it, which makes it a good high-cut pad. It is best used with compounds or intense polish like Sonus SFX-1 or Menzerna Intensive polish. When used with an intense (high cut) polish, it can help you remove swirls and surface scratches. This is usually the first pad/polish combo you will use when doing a deep cleaning of your car.
Lake Country Mfg Orange:
The orange pad is sort of between the yellow and white. It offers less cut than yellow, but more than white. It should still be used with an aggressive polish to remove stubborn swirls and light scratches.
Sonus White/Lake Country Mfg White:
Also referred to as a “finishing” pad, the white pad offers little cut, but high buffing. It has a firm texture, but not rough. It is best used with a moderate to no cut polish like Sonus SFX-2 or Menzerna Final Polish II. As the term implies, this pad is used when you want to apply a high gloss finishing polish. It can remove some swirl marks, but only very light ones. This pad and polish combo is best used after the yellow pad/high cut polish combo above, to enhance surface shine.
Sonus Blue/Lake Country Mfg Black:
The “glazing” or “finessing” pad is used to apply glaze or finishing polish. It offers no cutting ability whatsoever, so it won’t remove any swirls or scratches, but it’s soft, smooth texture is perfect for applying and leveling glaze, like Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze or Sonus SFX-3. This blue/black pad and glaze step should be done just before applying your favorite wax or sealant, to maximize surface gloss. The blue or black pads can be used to apply wax or sealant as well, but the Lake Country Mfg Red pad is better suited for this.
Lake Country Mfg Red:
The red pad is much like the blue/black pad in that it offers no cut, but is very fine, making it best suited for applying sealant or wax. What makes this pad different from the blue/black pad is it can be used to layer wax or sealant. Since it is so fine, it won’t remove the previous layer. Meguiars #26 wax or Blackfire Sealant go very well with this pad. This is the final step in the polishing/waxing/sealing process.
Wool pads:
Wool pads are highly aggressive and should probably be avoided by most home users. They are best suited for leveling paint, and can do a pretty fair amount of damage to your finish if not used properly. If there is a paint defect that can’t be solved using the yellow or orange pads, you should probably seek assistance from a professional detailer or body shop.
The polisher itself:
There are two model numbers for the Porter Cable dual action polisher. These are 7424 and 7336. The 7336 is sold as an orbital sander, but is the exact same tool as the 7424. Meguiars also sells the same polisher. The kit comes with one white finishing pad, but it is the type that threads directly into the polisher. This brings us to the flexible backing plate.
Flexible backing plate:
The flexible backing plate is an accessory that is sold separately from the polisher, but is a must for anyone who buys the polisher for use with their cars. Simply put, the flexible backing plate is a hard rubber disc with an attached sheet of the “hook” side of Velcro. It threads into the polisher, and allows you to quickly change foam pads. They come in various sizes, but the 6” backing plate is the most commonly used size for the foam pads.
Foam pads:
There are various sizes and densities of foam pads available for use with the Porter Cable polisher. The two most common sizes are 6” and 7.5”. For a beginner, the 6” pad is the best choice, as its small size allows you more control. As your become more familiar with the polisher, you can try the 7.5” pads. There are also two main manufacturers of these foam pads: Lake Country Manufacturing and Sonus. Both are conceptually the same: a foam rubber pad which has a “loop” side of Velcro attached to the back. When mated to the flexible backing plate, it forms a good grip on the polisher, while offering easy removal. The density of the pad is directly related to the amount of “cut”, or cleaning ability of the pad. Also, these pads are slightly concave, which helps reduce splatter of the polish or wax you are applying. They are color coded, to make the choice easier.
Sonus Yellow/Lake Country Mfg Yellow:
Also referred to as a “compounding” pad, the yellow pad is the most aggressive foam pad for the polisher. It has a slightly rough texture to it, which makes it a good high-cut pad. It is best used with compounds or intense polish like Sonus SFX-1 or Menzerna Intensive polish. When used with an intense (high cut) polish, it can help you remove swirls and surface scratches. This is usually the first pad/polish combo you will use when doing a deep cleaning of your car.
Lake Country Mfg Orange:
The orange pad is sort of between the yellow and white. It offers less cut than yellow, but more than white. It should still be used with an aggressive polish to remove stubborn swirls and light scratches.
Sonus White/Lake Country Mfg White:
Also referred to as a “finishing” pad, the white pad offers little cut, but high buffing. It has a firm texture, but not rough. It is best used with a moderate to no cut polish like Sonus SFX-2 or Menzerna Final Polish II. As the term implies, this pad is used when you want to apply a high gloss finishing polish. It can remove some swirl marks, but only very light ones. This pad and polish combo is best used after the yellow pad/high cut polish combo above, to enhance surface shine.
Sonus Blue/Lake Country Mfg Black:
The “glazing” or “finessing” pad is used to apply glaze or finishing polish. It offers no cutting ability whatsoever, so it won’t remove any swirls or scratches, but it’s soft, smooth texture is perfect for applying and leveling glaze, like Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze or Sonus SFX-3. This blue/black pad and glaze step should be done just before applying your favorite wax or sealant, to maximize surface gloss. The blue or black pads can be used to apply wax or sealant as well, but the Lake Country Mfg Red pad is better suited for this.
Lake Country Mfg Red:
The red pad is much like the blue/black pad in that it offers no cut, but is very fine, making it best suited for applying sealant or wax. What makes this pad different from the blue/black pad is it can be used to layer wax or sealant. Since it is so fine, it won’t remove the previous layer. Meguiars #26 wax or Blackfire Sealant go very well with this pad. This is the final step in the polishing/waxing/sealing process.
Wool pads:
Wool pads are highly aggressive and should probably be avoided by most home users. They are best suited for leveling paint, and can do a pretty fair amount of damage to your finish if not used properly. If there is a paint defect that can’t be solved using the yellow or orange pads, you should probably seek assistance from a professional detailer or body shop.
01-17-2005, 04:38 PM
#2
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What about Zaino?
First off, I don’t care what the bottles say. Zaino is NOT a polish. It is a sealant, and a great one at that. However, I do not recommend applying Zaino with the PC7424/7336, as it tends to splatter the product everywhere, and you end up wasting it. You can buff Zaino off with the polisher, but if you applied it right, a simple wipe with a clean microfiber towel will take it right off.
What about Meguiars NXT?
NXT can be applied with a blue/black or red pad, but in my experience, it doesn’t layer well. It has some cleaning ability, so as you apply one layer, you are removing part of the previous layer.
What about Klasse?
I have not used Klasse, but hopefully someone who has can post a reply in this thread with their experiences.
How should I prepare the car for polishing?
Wash: Some people will tell you to wash the car with Dawn dishwashing liquid. I personally don’t like this idea because Dawn tends to dry out your paint over time. A good wash with Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash or Zaino Z7 and a lamb’s wool mitt is an excellent first step.
Clay: Follow the wash with a clay bar session. The clay bar will remove any old wax and polish, as well as any contaminants that are stuck in your paint or clear coat. To use clay effectively, mist a small area with a soap and water mix, then rub the clay bar over the area a few times. Knead the clay in your hands to keep a fresh surface toward the car, or you run the risk of dragging those contaminants all over your car again. Keep the area well lubricated with the soapy water. If you drop the clay bar on the ground, throw it away. You can’t get all the dirt out of it and you don’t want to risk running all that dirt over your paint. When you’ve clayed the whole car, wash it again (with a fresh bucket of car wash) and dry it.
Drying: After using The Abosrber for about a year, I was really impressed, until it got dirty and started making new swirls all over my car. Now I use a waffle-weave microfiber towel and am much happier with the results. Moral of the story: keep your drying towel/chamois really clean. If you’re in doubt, wash it or throw it away and buy a new one.
How do I use the polisher to apply polish?
Set the polisher to 3-4. Apply the polish (two 8-10 inch lines) to the surface of your car, then lightly mist (usually two squirts from a squirt bottle) the pad. With the polisher turned off, rub the polish into the area you’re polishing and smear it around. Leave it in contact with the surface and turn it on. Massage the polish into the surface in a 2’ x 2’ area, using back and forth, side to side, and figure eight motions. Use moderate pressure at first, then as the polish starts to dry, use less pressure to buff. When you’re finished, the polish should not be very visible. For high cut polishes, lightly mist a 50/50 water and alcohol mix onto the surface and wipe off with a clean microfiber towel. For low cut polishes, just mist with water. The alcohol removes the filler material in high gloss polishes, and we need that filler. If the towel stops taking the polish off, or just smears it, get a clean towel.
How do I use the polisher to apply sealant, wax, or glaze?
It’s pretty much the same as above, only you don’t wet the pad. Sealants and glazes are better applied with a dry pad. Set the polisher to 3-4. Apply two thin stripes of sealant or glaze to the surface, smear it around with the polisher and work it in. Personal experience has shown me that glazes, waxes, and sealants go farther, so you can work in larger areas than 2’ x 2’. The key to layering is thin layers, so keep that in mind. Wipe off the excess with a clean, dry microfiber towel.
How do I care for the pads?
I usually fill the sink with water and some dishwashing liquid, then squeeze the pads underwater to get the soap into them. Rinse thoroughly, squeezing the pad frequently to let water into the pores. Allow them to air dry (an old dish rack somewhere in the garage works well). If you need to use a pad that is still wet, attach it to the polisher, hold the pad in an empty bucket, turn the polisher to 6 and turn it on for a few seconds. Hold on tight! This will spin most of the water out. Pads can also be washed in the washing machine, but be sure to put them in a mesh bag first, or the agitator will eat them. Set it to the gentle cycle with some liquid detergent.
How long do the pads last?
A well cared for pad should last about a year. This not only means washing it after each use, but also not using the same pad with different materials. For example, if you use your white pad to apply some Sonus SFX-2, don’t use the same pad to apply glaze. I usually take a laundry marker (Sharpie) and write on the back of the pad what I intend to use it for. When the pads start splitting or shedding, either toss them out or use them for something other than your car (like polishing the cat).
Where do I get these things?
There are lots of places, some of which have good combo deals. A few are:
www.properautocare.com
www.autopia-carcare.com
www.autogeek.net
In your opinion, what would be the best “starter” kit?
Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher (duh)
6” flexible backing plate
One Lake Country Mfg Orange Pad
One Lake Country Mfg or Sonus White Pad
Two spray bottles (one for water and one for your 50/50 water and alcohol mix)
Several microfiber towels (at least 6)
High cut polish of your choice
Low cut/High gloss polish of your choice
Sealant or wax of your choice (apply by hand)
Have fun and be sure to take lots of pictures!
-Mike
First off, I don’t care what the bottles say. Zaino is NOT a polish. It is a sealant, and a great one at that. However, I do not recommend applying Zaino with the PC7424/7336, as it tends to splatter the product everywhere, and you end up wasting it. You can buff Zaino off with the polisher, but if you applied it right, a simple wipe with a clean microfiber towel will take it right off.
What about Meguiars NXT?
NXT can be applied with a blue/black or red pad, but in my experience, it doesn’t layer well. It has some cleaning ability, so as you apply one layer, you are removing part of the previous layer.
What about Klasse?
I have not used Klasse, but hopefully someone who has can post a reply in this thread with their experiences.
How should I prepare the car for polishing?
Wash: Some people will tell you to wash the car with Dawn dishwashing liquid. I personally don’t like this idea because Dawn tends to dry out your paint over time. A good wash with Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash or Zaino Z7 and a lamb’s wool mitt is an excellent first step.
Clay: Follow the wash with a clay bar session. The clay bar will remove any old wax and polish, as well as any contaminants that are stuck in your paint or clear coat. To use clay effectively, mist a small area with a soap and water mix, then rub the clay bar over the area a few times. Knead the clay in your hands to keep a fresh surface toward the car, or you run the risk of dragging those contaminants all over your car again. Keep the area well lubricated with the soapy water. If you drop the clay bar on the ground, throw it away. You can’t get all the dirt out of it and you don’t want to risk running all that dirt over your paint. When you’ve clayed the whole car, wash it again (with a fresh bucket of car wash) and dry it.
Drying: After using The Abosrber for about a year, I was really impressed, until it got dirty and started making new swirls all over my car. Now I use a waffle-weave microfiber towel and am much happier with the results. Moral of the story: keep your drying towel/chamois really clean. If you’re in doubt, wash it or throw it away and buy a new one.
How do I use the polisher to apply polish?
Set the polisher to 3-4. Apply the polish (two 8-10 inch lines) to the surface of your car, then lightly mist (usually two squirts from a squirt bottle) the pad. With the polisher turned off, rub the polish into the area you’re polishing and smear it around. Leave it in contact with the surface and turn it on. Massage the polish into the surface in a 2’ x 2’ area, using back and forth, side to side, and figure eight motions. Use moderate pressure at first, then as the polish starts to dry, use less pressure to buff. When you’re finished, the polish should not be very visible. For high cut polishes, lightly mist a 50/50 water and alcohol mix onto the surface and wipe off with a clean microfiber towel. For low cut polishes, just mist with water. The alcohol removes the filler material in high gloss polishes, and we need that filler. If the towel stops taking the polish off, or just smears it, get a clean towel.
How do I use the polisher to apply sealant, wax, or glaze?
It’s pretty much the same as above, only you don’t wet the pad. Sealants and glazes are better applied with a dry pad. Set the polisher to 3-4. Apply two thin stripes of sealant or glaze to the surface, smear it around with the polisher and work it in. Personal experience has shown me that glazes, waxes, and sealants go farther, so you can work in larger areas than 2’ x 2’. The key to layering is thin layers, so keep that in mind. Wipe off the excess with a clean, dry microfiber towel.
How do I care for the pads?
I usually fill the sink with water and some dishwashing liquid, then squeeze the pads underwater to get the soap into them. Rinse thoroughly, squeezing the pad frequently to let water into the pores. Allow them to air dry (an old dish rack somewhere in the garage works well). If you need to use a pad that is still wet, attach it to the polisher, hold the pad in an empty bucket, turn the polisher to 6 and turn it on for a few seconds. Hold on tight! This will spin most of the water out. Pads can also be washed in the washing machine, but be sure to put them in a mesh bag first, or the agitator will eat them. Set it to the gentle cycle with some liquid detergent.
How long do the pads last?
A well cared for pad should last about a year. This not only means washing it after each use, but also not using the same pad with different materials. For example, if you use your white pad to apply some Sonus SFX-2, don’t use the same pad to apply glaze. I usually take a laundry marker (Sharpie) and write on the back of the pad what I intend to use it for. When the pads start splitting or shedding, either toss them out or use them for something other than your car (like polishing the cat).
Where do I get these things?
There are lots of places, some of which have good combo deals. A few are:
www.properautocare.com
www.autopia-carcare.com
www.autogeek.net
In your opinion, what would be the best “starter” kit?
Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher (duh)
6” flexible backing plate
One Lake Country Mfg Orange Pad
One Lake Country Mfg or Sonus White Pad
Two spray bottles (one for water and one for your 50/50 water and alcohol mix)
Several microfiber towels (at least 6)
High cut polish of your choice
Low cut/High gloss polish of your choice
Sealant or wax of your choice (apply by hand)
Have fun and be sure to take lots of pictures!
-Mike
Last edited by chupr0kabra; 01-17-2005 at 07:09 PM.
01-18-2005, 07:29 PM
#7
Thanks for this. Much props. Lot of it is stuff I've read over and over again but it's nice to see it all put together in one place. Now, when I finally break down and buy the damn polisher, I'll have a nice place to look back for reference. Once again, thanks.
Justin
Justin
Trending Topics
01-18-2005, 08:26 PM
#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
![6']['9's Avatar](https://ls1tech.com/forums/customavatars/avatar7527_3.gif){kind=avatar}
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why did you not mention the meguiars 6" pads for the PC? Thats a good write up now we need another one to show how to use the machine w/pics.
Heres some How to's that might make good write up's
How to work in certain products like polishes, compounds, certain pure polishes
How to reduce splatter.
What to do when a product cakes up
Whats marring/micromarring
What are holograms.
How to properly wash/clay/dry/polish/glaze/seal etc. your car
How to remove water stains off glass.
How & what to use to polish wheels (for the weld guys)
What a particular product does i.e. compound, polish, machine glazes, glazes, cleaner waxes, sealants (polymer/acrylic), liquid/paste waxes.
This way you pretty much get everything covered.
Heres some How to's that might make good write up's
How to work in certain products like polishes, compounds, certain pure polishes
How to reduce splatter.
What to do when a product cakes up
Whats marring/micromarring
What are holograms.
How to properly wash/clay/dry/polish/glaze/seal etc. your car
How to remove water stains off glass.
How & what to use to polish wheels (for the weld guys)
What a particular product does i.e. compound, polish, machine glazes, glazes, cleaner waxes, sealants (polymer/acrylic), liquid/paste waxes.
This way you pretty much get everything covered.
01-18-2005, 09:09 PM
#9
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 6']['9
Why did you not mention the meguiars 6" pads for the PC? Thats a good write up now we need another one to show how to use the machine w/pics.
Heres some How to's that might make good write up's
How to work in certain products like polishes, compounds, certain pure polishes
How to reduce splatter.
What to do when a product cakes up
Whats marring/micromarring
What are holograms.
How to properly wash/clay/dry/polish/glaze/seal etc. your car
How to remove water stains off glass.
How & what to use to polish wheels (for the weld guys)
What a particular product does i.e. compound, polish, machine glazes, glazes, cleaner waxes, sealants (polymer/acrylic), liquid/paste waxes.
This way you pretty much get everything covered.
Heres some How to's that might make good write up's
How to work in certain products like polishes, compounds, certain pure polishes
How to reduce splatter.
What to do when a product cakes up
Whats marring/micromarring
What are holograms.
How to properly wash/clay/dry/polish/glaze/seal etc. your car
How to remove water stains off glass.
How & what to use to polish wheels (for the weld guys)
What a particular product does i.e. compound, polish, machine glazes, glazes, cleaner waxes, sealants (polymer/acrylic), liquid/paste waxes.
This way you pretty much get everything covered.
I haven't used the Meguiars pads, so I can't personally vouch for them. If I get the chance, I can make some more write-ups and take pictures. First I'll need a better camera, though.
-Mike
01-18-2005, 09:29 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well the Klasse All In One (AIO) or High Gloss Sealant Glaze (HGSG or SG) and meguiars 6" pads i have tried with both the PC and the rotory.
The meguiars pads are pretty good all around pads. The Maroon is the cutting pad which you wont really need. If you need to do any cutting i recommend an Edge green and or a Lake Country orange pad. The yellow is the polishing pad, this is the most versatile polishing pad that I think is out there. you can use it w/ compounds and all other types of polishes and get great results. Their beige is the finishing pad which is similar to the Lake Country Black pad use it to apply glazes like Vanilla Moose (VM) or sealants like Meguiars NXT or Poorboys EXP or EX.
The Klasse products better known as the Klasse Twins are very good when it comes to durability. I think the Acrylics in this product offers a great deal of shine when topped with some sort of carnuba paste wax i.e. P21S, S100, Nattys, Pinnacle Souveran, Pinnacle Signature Series.
The AIO is pretty basic to apply just use a dab to apply it w/ a MF applicator or you can apply it with a finishing pad at speed 3 or 4. Dont use too much 'cause if you do the product will cake up on the finish, so use it very sparingly. Also do not use this product in high temperatures or high humidity or in any kind of direct sunlight.
The Klasse SG is a very watery kind of glaze the 2nd part of the klasse system. Be careful applying this not too use too much. Since this product does dry fairly quick you need to use as little as possible (probably a quarter sized drop per panel) which will spread very evenly. This product will also be difficult to remove in high humidy and or temperatures and do not use in direct sunlight.
These are just some observations ive noticed while using these products. Good luck using them on your own. You will however love the look of the Klasse twins topped w/ any type of carnuba paste wax. Happy waxing
The meguiars pads are pretty good all around pads. The Maroon is the cutting pad which you wont really need. If you need to do any cutting i recommend an Edge green and or a Lake Country orange pad. The yellow is the polishing pad, this is the most versatile polishing pad that I think is out there. you can use it w/ compounds and all other types of polishes and get great results. Their beige is the finishing pad which is similar to the Lake Country Black pad use it to apply glazes like Vanilla Moose (VM) or sealants like Meguiars NXT or Poorboys EXP or EX.
The Klasse products better known as the Klasse Twins are very good when it comes to durability. I think the Acrylics in this product offers a great deal of shine when topped with some sort of carnuba paste wax i.e. P21S, S100, Nattys, Pinnacle Souveran, Pinnacle Signature Series.
The AIO is pretty basic to apply just use a dab to apply it w/ a MF applicator or you can apply it with a finishing pad at speed 3 or 4. Dont use too much 'cause if you do the product will cake up on the finish, so use it very sparingly. Also do not use this product in high temperatures or high humidity or in any kind of direct sunlight.
The Klasse SG is a very watery kind of glaze the 2nd part of the klasse system. Be careful applying this not too use too much. Since this product does dry fairly quick you need to use as little as possible (probably a quarter sized drop per panel) which will spread very evenly. This product will also be difficult to remove in high humidy and or temperatures and do not use in direct sunlight.
These are just some observations ive noticed while using these products. Good luck using them on your own. You will however love the look of the Klasse twins topped w/ any type of carnuba paste wax. Happy waxing
01-19-2005, 08:15 PM
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Gainesville, Denton TX
Posts: 8,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very nice post!
I'm fixing to order some new black and red pads. I had never seen the red pads at PAC. Guess I didnt look hard enough.
On the subject of Menzerna, after the IP, wipe with 50/50, then with FP, just H2O? I've been 50/50 after both. Oops! Should I try their glaze before I use the FMJ?
I must say the FMJ has held up really well, alot better than Wolfgang. However the FMJ doesnt keep its 'slickness' after a wash with Gold Class. Not as big of a deal compared to the Wolfgang though. That stuff is horrible, IMO.
Maybe we should start a polish/sealant page...
I'm fixing to order some new black and red pads. I had never seen the red pads at PAC. Guess I didnt look hard enough.
On the subject of Menzerna, after the IP, wipe with 50/50, then with FP, just H2O? I've been 50/50 after both. Oops! Should I try their glaze before I use the FMJ?
I must say the FMJ has held up really well, alot better than Wolfgang. However the FMJ doesnt keep its 'slickness' after a wash with Gold Class. Not as big of a deal compared to the Wolfgang though. That stuff is horrible, IMO.
Maybe we should start a polish/sealant page...
01-19-2005, 08:49 PM
#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you really dont even need the 50/50 since menzerna doesnt contain fillers. Wolfgang is bad ***. I did a truck sometime in september and it has been garaged for some time and driven here and there. I think its been washed maybe 2x and when i saw it in december it still looked bad ***. I did IP/FP/AIO/WG/P21. Maybe the AIO helps retain a better longetivity on some sealants.
01-19-2005, 09:17 PM
#13
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Brandon
Very nice post!
I'm fixing to order some new black and red pads. I had never seen the red pads at PAC. Guess I didnt look hard enough.
On the subject of Menzerna, after the IP, wipe with 50/50, then with FP, just H2O? I've been 50/50 after both. Oops! Should I try their glaze before I use the FMJ?
I must say the FMJ has held up really well, alot better than Wolfgang. However the FMJ doesnt keep its 'slickness' after a wash with Gold Class. Not as big of a deal compared to the Wolfgang though. That stuff is horrible, IMO.
Maybe we should start a polish/sealant page...
I'm fixing to order some new black and red pads. I had never seen the red pads at PAC. Guess I didnt look hard enough.
On the subject of Menzerna, after the IP, wipe with 50/50, then with FP, just H2O? I've been 50/50 after both. Oops! Should I try their glaze before I use the FMJ?
I must say the FMJ has held up really well, alot better than Wolfgang. However the FMJ doesnt keep its 'slickness' after a wash with Gold Class. Not as big of a deal compared to the Wolfgang though. That stuff is horrible, IMO.
Maybe we should start a polish/sealant page...
I just tried the Menzerna glaze for the first time about a week ago and WOW does it make a difference. The finish is REALLY deep now and looks great. I like it a lot better than the Meguiars hand glaze.
By all means, EXPERIMENT! That's half the fun!
-Mike
01-25-2005, 04:43 PM
#15
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: green bay
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the only thing i found missing from this post was the prices for the products listed. i am very interested in purchasing everything in the starter kit, but i would like to know what it will run me first.
01-25-2005, 07:49 PM
#16
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Gainesville, Denton TX
Posts: 8,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
AltrdPrcptn, check the site above. www.premiumautocare.com
properautocare.com
autopia.com
and autogeek.com i think its .com
6']['9, I used wolfgang after IP and FP and let dry, and after a drive, it would haze back up again. So I'd wipe it down with a nice MF again, and the finish would look great no haze or anythign. Next time I got the engine warm (=hood warm) it would look like *** again. Not to mention the first time i applied, it rained the next day, and I spent the next 2 days with IP and FP trying to get out the horrible spots. Maybe I'm applying wrong, or not letting sit long enough, but i only did it on dry days, no really humid days, and let sit and haze and buff.. I'm at a loss, so I went to FMJ, which turned out great, but now im thinking of some other stuff, perhaps poorboys ex-p or maybe *gasp* tropicare products. I'm kind of hesitant to jump on that bandwagon (seems like zaino round 2) but I've havent heard much bad about it just yet.
properautocare.com
autopia.com
and autogeek.com i think its .com
6']['9, I used wolfgang after IP and FP and let dry, and after a drive, it would haze back up again. So I'd wipe it down with a nice MF again, and the finish would look great no haze or anythign. Next time I got the engine warm (=hood warm) it would look like *** again. Not to mention the first time i applied, it rained the next day, and I spent the next 2 days with IP and FP trying to get out the horrible spots. Maybe I'm applying wrong, or not letting sit long enough, but i only did it on dry days, no really humid days, and let sit and haze and buff.. I'm at a loss, so I went to FMJ, which turned out great, but now im thinking of some other stuff, perhaps poorboys ex-p or maybe *gasp* tropicare products. I'm kind of hesitant to jump on that bandwagon (seems like zaino round 2) but I've havent heard much bad about it just yet.
01-25-2005, 08:28 PM
#17
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dont really know what you mean by hazing. Once i did the WG it looked glossy, of course everythings gonna attract dust other than Zaino. The EXP i tried didnt attract that much dust. I just apply it and wipe it off, i may let it sit for about 5 minutes or so no too long. Do you have pics of the hazing id like to see that.
I tried the tropicare samples and even with proper prep i didnt like it. the look came out more of a warm look like cm or 26.
I tried the tropicare samples and even with proper prep i didnt like it. the look came out more of a warm look like cm or 26.
01-25-2005, 10:38 PM
#18
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Gainesville, Denton TX
Posts: 8,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it came back and looked like i had applied it again, yet very very evenly. Kind of like a fine wet sand, a little shine, but alot of dullness in there...
I hear the EXP is better on darker and metallic cars.... like me...... I guess my main thing i need to learn to do is glazing after the FP, ormaybe getting some AIO, I have never tried that.
I hear the EXP is better on darker and metallic cars.... like me...... I guess my main thing i need to learn to do is glazing after the FP, ormaybe getting some AIO, I have never tried that.
01-26-2005, 05:28 PM
#19
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Brandon
it came back and looked like i had applied it again, yet very very evenly. Kind of like a fine wet sand, a little shine, but alot of dullness in there...
I hear the EXP is better on darker and metallic cars.... like me...... I guess my main thing i need to learn to do is glazing after the FP, ormaybe getting some AIO, I have never tried that.
I hear the EXP is better on darker and metallic cars.... like me...... I guess my main thing i need to learn to do is glazing after the FP, ormaybe getting some AIO, I have never tried that.
AIO is
. If after you use the ip/fp do aio then WG.
02-10-2005, 11:56 AM
#20
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Friend of mine is a part time "Professional" detailer, meaning he owns his own business. He has shown me pics of cars he has finished off with a product called Pinnacle Souveran. WOW..........but for almost $70 a can, it better be WOW!