Blue-tinted bulbs:
The blue tint makes the light appear whiter, but it is not brighter. Its actually dimmer because the tint is blocking some of the light. If you compare the lumens output of Sylvania's regular or XtraVision bulb to their SilverStar, you'll see that the SilverStar bulbs actually have a lower lumens output. If you want brighter bulbs, Sylvania XtraVision, Phillips Vision plus, and GE NightHawk are some examples. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...uperwhite.html
__________________ - 2001 Black Formula --- 75th Anniversary Package --- www.fadingarrow.com - Performance Mods: Bilstein HD, Lid & Holly Powershot, Brembo Blanks & Hawk HPS Pads, ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid Appearance Mods: Black Z06 Motorsports (17x9.5), F1 GS-D3 (275/40/17), Silver Door Panel & Arm Rest Fabric, Silver Vent Rings, A4 Leather Shift Boot, Hella H9 Projector Headlights, Pioneer AVIC-D3 --- Lighting FAQ -- Sig Rules -- General Suspension Issues/Questions FAQ ---
Conversion Housings
In this thread there is a discussion about this and a link to a thread on another board with instructions on converting a sealed beam bulb into a conversion unit to allow the installation of bulbs like the Camaro and most newer cars. Check it out, he shows how to disassemble the sealed beam bulb to allow the instalation of regular bulbs. Silverstars anyone? Can't seem to find em anywhere.
The thread on the other board moved (again) and I don't have a link to the new thread.
Here is how I did it on my 2001 Formula:
(Slight variation on the above installation) clear head lamps for trans am
Unfortunately, they eventually had standing water in them and a loose connection caused the stock driver's side bulb connector to melt. The H7 bulb is intended to be sealed inside a housing. The back of the H7 bulb has cardboard and is not water tight. It would be a good idea to cover the whole back with a thin film of clear silicone (the copper stuff I used might be conductive). The downside is that it may make the pins to short to cut and plug into the stock harness so you'll have to splice in a new harness with spade connectors (before sealing the back of the bulb). The spades are thinner than the stock bulb's spades already and if you cut too much, you'll create a looser connection which will lead to a melted bulb connector. 02 Firebird headlight/signal light upgrade questions
(Check out my post #3.)
Here are some threads on the new Camaro Halo Projector housings
There are at least three kinds now, one has an extra bulb in the middle for an unknown purpose, and the the two differ on the type of bulb used for the low beam - H3 versus H1. H3 is intended for fog lights. H1 is intended for high beam, but is often used in eBay projectors. H1 has better output than H3 and H1 projectors typically handle HID better than H3 projectors, but still not as well as some H7 projectors or real HID projectors.
(prices have come down since these threads were started too)
Those above projectors often used an H3 bulb which is a fog light bulb. Here is a newer version of the "DualHalo" projector that uses an H1 bulb and has better output: Got some Projectors for christmas...Pics!
98MNBZ28 looks into retrofitting HID projectors into the ebay Camaro halogen projector housings. projector project
__________________ - 2001 Black Formula --- 75th Anniversary Package --- www.fadingarrow.com - Performance Mods: Bilstein HD, Lid & Holly Powershot, Brembo Blanks & Hawk HPS Pads, ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid Appearance Mods: Black Z06 Motorsports (17x9.5), F1 GS-D3 (275/40/17), Silver Door Panel & Arm Rest Fabric, Silver Vent Rings, A4 Leather Shift Boot, Hella H9 Projector Headlights, Pioneer AVIC-D3 --- Lighting FAQ -- Sig Rules -- General Suspension Issues/Questions FAQ ---
If your turn signal blinks faster than normal, or just stays lit instead of blinking, or doesn't light at all...
If one side works and the other side doesn't then the problem is not the flasher. If both sides don't work, then it may be the flasher but its a good idea to perform the following test anyway to make sure.
1.) Turn on the hazards and walk around the car
2.) Look for any bulbs that aren't blinking (that are supposed to blink) or are blinking erratically
3.) When you find the problem bulb, turn off the hazards
4.) Inspect the problem bulb and its socket. Either the bulb blew or the socket has corroded. There are two filaments in most of the signal bulbs. Its possible that the bright filament (signal) broke and the dim filament (parking) didn't.
5.) Replace the bulb or repair/replace the socket (which ever was the problem). Usually its just a blown bulb.
6.) Use dielectric grease on the bulb base and socket to help keep water out of the connection.
If everything works properly with the hazards, but neither side works with the signals, then the signals flasher may need to be replaced.
The 4th-gen f-body has two flasher modules. One for the left/right signal and one for the hazards. The same flasher operates both the left and right signals. That is why it cannot be the problem if one side works and the other doesn't.
If you install LEDs in any signal location, you must replace the signal flasher with an electronic flasher. A Tridon EL12 is available at auto parts stores for $8. If you don't replace the flasher with an electronic one, the signals will not work properly (might blink at the wrong speed or not at all -- usually won't blink at all).
Also, most of the signal bulbs are dual filament. The dim filament is for the parking lights and the bright filament is for the signals. Just because the light shines with the parking lights doesn't mean that it will work with the signal because it has two filaments used for two different operations. One filament can work while the other is broken.
The above test may also help diagnose slow signals. The cause is typically a corroded or damaged socket (usually a front socket). If everything looks fine, try a new flasher.
Further Diagnostics:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000Z28M6
Before you start tearing into the dash and under it, be sure to confirm you have no power at the actual sockets.
To test the turn signal switch,
Gain access to the bottom of the steering column. Follow the wires coming from under the steering column until you find the harness.
There you will find the inputs and outputs of the switch. Below is the color code of the wires you will need to test.
Purple - Input power to the switch.
Outputs from the switch:
Light Blue - Left Front blinker
Dark Blue - Right Front blinker
Yellow - Left Rear blinker
Green - Right Rear blinker
Take a test light get a good ground, with the ign in the on position, engage the turn signal side you will test.
First test for power hitting the switch purple wire.
Then test outputs for each blinker. You should have power on all of the above to make sure the switch is good.
FYI, in my experience only the front right was dead.
If all looks good, you can go further and test at the DRL module behind the radio.
Below is a quote from WhiteBird00:
"The only real difference between the front signals and the rear is that the front gets routed through the DRL module. It's possible that there is some problem with the DRL module especially if someone tried to disable the DRLs.
The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes mounted to the defroster duct behind the radio. It has two plugs - one 8-pin black and one 8-pin blue. In the black connector, the dark blue with white and the light blue with white wires are the turn signal input from the switch. The plain dark blue and light blue wires are the output to the front lamps. (In both cases the dark blue is the right side and the light blue is the left side.) Using a multimeter or test light to check that you have the proper input and output at the DRL module will tell you if the module is the problem or if it's someplace else in the wiring."
Hope this helps in the future.
__________________ - 2001 Black Formula --- 75th Anniversary Package --- www.fadingarrow.com - Performance Mods: Bilstein HD, Lid & Holly Powershot, Brembo Blanks & Hawk HPS Pads, ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid Appearance Mods: Black Z06 Motorsports (17x9.5), F1 GS-D3 (275/40/17), Silver Door Panel & Arm Rest Fabric, Silver Vent Rings, A4 Leather Shift Boot, Hella H9 Projector Headlights, Pioneer AVIC-D3 --- Lighting FAQ -- Sig Rules -- General Suspension Issues/Questions FAQ ---
The light sensor for the feature is located near the alarm LED. Short together the two wires going to it. A Scotch Lock works well for this (3M calls it Scotchlok). That will make the system think its always daytime and never auto activate the headlights. If you want a less permanent defeat or want some control over when to defeat it, you can wire in a switch instead of just shorting them together.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Remove the t-tops. At the top of the windshield pillar trim, remove the two Phillips screws then remove the windshield pillar trim (it just snaps off after the screws are removed). Carefully pry up the edge of the upper dash panel. It is held in place by a combination of clips and velcro pads. You can see one of the clips in the photo just above the words "Light Sensor". BE CAREFUL! The edges of the panel are sharp (don't ask how I found that out, he says as he types with nine fingers ). Also, the plastic can get somewhat brittle with age so it's best to pry it up in small sections - don't just pry up the center and then try to lift the whole thing.
Once you get the dash panel pried up, you'll see the sensor just like in the photo VIP1 posted above. The whole job can be done in 10 minutes after you've done it the first time and know where all the clips are. Allow about half an hour for the first time.
__________________ - 2001 Black Formula --- 75th Anniversary Package --- www.fadingarrow.com - Performance Mods: Bilstein HD, Lid & Holly Powershot, Brembo Blanks & Hawk HPS Pads, ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid Appearance Mods: Black Z06 Motorsports (17x9.5), F1 GS-D3 (275/40/17), Silver Door Panel & Arm Rest Fabric, Silver Vent Rings, A4 Leather Shift Boot, Hella H9 Projector Headlights, Pioneer AVIC-D3 --- Lighting FAQ -- Sig Rules -- General Suspension Issues/Questions FAQ ---
Lighting FAQ 
- 2001 Black Formula --- 75th Anniversary Package --- 
