Please don't shoot me. Clutch question. Long

Silver Slayer · 11-24-2001, 04:26 PM

I have a 1999 SS and I just finished breaking in my STAR stage 3 with carbon pads, it feels good so far. I had to replace the slave with a 2002 (which everyone recommends) and also drilled out the restriction in the master cylinder line to allow the fluid to flow faster. I installed the clutch myself and it was not too bad. The only problems I have run into (so far) is bleeding the master cylinder line, after removing it to drill it out. I still have a good pedal, but when I get on it real hard and speed shift, by the time third gear comes around, the pedal doesn't want to come all the way up. If I had it to do again, I would not drill out the master cylnder line until after I was sure the new slave cylinder was properly bled. I have heard of others bleeding the air out before the transmission is bolted back up, (which I highly recommend). I hope this helps, I know I had a hard time deciding what clutch to get. Right about the time I was going to order my clutch, I was hearing horror stories about the STAR clutches not holding up. I really think it was just alot of installation mistakes and hard times with the break in period. I know I had hard time keeping my foot out of it, (during the break in period) but I knew in the end it would be worth it. Sorry this was so long, but I wanted to give you as much info. as possible.

2001SS#3013 · 11-24-2001, 06:47 PM

Thanks this really helps

IndyZ28 · 11-25-2001, 12:32 AM

Try this link for some more information to help you out. http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/u...c&f=2&t=000048

2001SS#3013 · 11-25-2001, 01:12 AM

I have a 2001 and my clutch is going out. I am trying to decide which one. I have narrowed it down by reading the I want either the Cartek, Star, or the 02 Z06. Price wise the order is Z06, Star Stage III, then Cartek. Holding HP wise it is the exact opposite. This leaves Star in the middle. I don't want to upgrade hydrolics if possible but I have heard it is best. I have also read about an adjustable master, what does this do exactly and how much is it. I have only 11000 miles on my car. I am doing the install myself because I don't trust the dealer. Which one to get? Which one has the fewest problems with the install? What are some common problems with a clutch install. Last are there any websites that show a step by step install of a clutch on ramps besides Install University.

BIGBOS · 11-25-2001, 01:23 AM

I installed a star spec stage 3 kevlar with a friend of mine....easy install, just involves taking everything under the car apart...removing the torque arm from the trans is not tricky, but it can give you a good whack on the hand or arm if you don't hold it...as soon as you get everything out of the way its easy...just make sure you clean the surface of all the plates and DO NOT touch them with your fingers...and make sure when you put your new clutch in that you properly break it in for 400 miles...all the people who complain about how their specs suck is because they don't break them in....

In my opinion its an excellent clutch....

I would go with a carbon or kevlar disc...

2001SS#3013 · 11-25-2001, 01:25 AM

Thanks! Need some more advice please!

SC 98 Mecham · 11-25-2001, 03:24 AM

I have a spec III carbon with over 10,000 miles on it. It still still grabs hard. That being said I still have my stock hydraulics and as of late they have been giving me some grief. But so far no complaints with my Star. Just my .02 Jason

Dustin Butts · 11-25-2001, 09:04 AM

If you're planning on upping your HP any time in the near future like with heads/cam or N2O etc...
get a REAL clutch with adjustable hydraulics and replace your slave while you're in there! The drill mod is also very nice.
Cartek is a great clutch. I run the McLeod adjustable MC with McLeod kevlar disc and I push 500rwhp. Clutch has been flawless. ALL heavy duty clutches will have a little chatter especially when they're hot or if you leave the stoplight with very light throttle. If you have the adjustable hydraulics you can safely and dependably run any aftermarket clutch ie Centerforce, Hays, Ram etc.
The aftermarket HD clutches require more engagement/disengagement travel than stock hydraulics can handle. Thus you end up with a clutch disc that never fully releases and wears out fast and causes mucho problems(crappy shifting, tranny probs..).