I'm in the process of installing my vig TC. I got it in, spun it a few dozen times and it seemed to be seated properly. I bolted the bellhousing to the block and now the TC won't spin freely (so i can't line up the holes on the flywheel).
Is that normal? Should i line up the holes before i bolt the bellhousing all the way down? Or do i not have the TC seated all the way?
No its not normal you do not have the converter fully seated
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Okay, still having problems. I unbolted the trans and it separated from the block but the TC did not. The center hub of the TC was stuck in the center of the flexplate. So after hammering...yes hammering...the TC off the flexplate i dropped the trans and reseated it. What I saw was that the bellhousing cannot reach the engine block before the center hub of the TC contacts the flexplate. SO i started all the TC to flexplate bolts in the holes, and then tightened the trans to the block, allowing the bolts to pull the tc into the flexplate. Seemed fine, but now I cannot manually turn the flywheel....at all.
So i know the TC i seated, because even if it wasn't when i torqued the TC to flexplates bolts down it would pull the TC into the flexplate and get it stuck again.
So what i'm wondering is...what the heck is the problem and what do i do? I'm a little sick of taking the bellhousing bolts out.
Also, when i pulled the Tc off, 3/8" of pink paint was missing from the center hub...which shows that it was THAT tight, is it supposed to be in that far? That tight?
something is wrong. Sounds like you didnt push the converter all the way in the trans for it to engage the pump. The converter pads should sit about 1in inside from the bellhousing. Are you sure you have the correct converter for your engine/trans? sounds like you may have damaged something the first time. the converter should spin freely no matter what until its bolted to the flexplate. then obviously you will have to overcome the compression of the motor to spin it.
Well every TC swap i've done, the TC has spun freely up until the bolts go in. But why then, would the TC be stuck to the flexplate? And theres paint scraped off of the center hub of the TC where it was pulled into/out of the flexplate. Shouldn't it not be that tight regardless of whether its seated in the trans properly or not?
Is the TC for the 4l60e out of a truck the same as the 4l60e from an ls1? The 3 bolts line up perfectly. Is that center hub different? The part number on the box from Vig is the one listed on their website for the ls1. Is there a difference?
Could be as simple as removing the paint from the pilot on the converter. You should be able to stab the converter in the crank. It should fit tight but still slide in/out and be able to be flush on the flex plate.
Do you really think all this trouble could be from the paint on the pilot? I just read that that's one of the first steps to take when installing a TC, remove paint and rust. The instructions from Vig and the write ups i've read have never mentioned it. That should be added to the stickies. heh.
Do you really think all this trouble could be from the paint on the pilot? I just read that that's one of the first steps to take when installing a TC, remove paint and rust. The instructions from Vig and the write ups i've read have never mentioned it. That should be added to the stickies. heh.
That paint could be thick enough to cause a problem..
Okay, took it off, sanded it, slid it back in and this time made sure it was seated by measuring to the pads. I dont think it was seated before AND the paint was messing me up. So we're good.....NOT
Once it was seated, the tc would only turn about 2 inches then stop, and it would not turn freely.
So i took it back off, and there were a dozen little fibers that came out of the tranny around the shaft, looked like grey paper...very very thin. And now i cannot get the tc to seat to the 3rd "click". I tried the old tc....no go either.
Is there any trick? Or did i break something? Sorry for all the newbie tech but i'm really worried that i broke something now.
Well i sanded the paint off and sanded the crank journal and i lubed both up, but now this new issue....
If i look into the little 1/4 around the input shaft i can see a small metal nub that i assume fits into the notches on the TC shaft....but i really don't know enough about it to know what it's supposed to look like.
To ensure mine was seated properly. I actually stood the tranny up on the tail and felt the converter drop 3 distinct clicks before i trusted it was seated.
I had my dad help me lift it up on the tailshaft this evening. It would not go in. When looking inside, the metal tab that is at the very inside of the tranny next to the input shaft...has a piece of metal next to it that appears to be a piece of whatever ring surrounds it and is broken.
So it's on the back of my truck right now, heading to the tranny shop tomorrow. Should I just replace those parts myself or is that an involved job? I have no idea how this turned out so badly, as I've done 2 tranny/tc swaps before.
If i do get it fixed, how much do you think that would cost?
I'm not entirely sure, but i think the metal piece i see is a bushing....and since it's supposed to be a circle...and it's in two pieces. I guess thats bad. So do i just remove the 9 or 10 bolts that hold the pump in and it comes right out?
I would let the transmission shop do the work on it if something is screwed up, the front seal and bushing sometimes are hard to get out and back in without screwing them up....its not worth buying the parts and then bringing the transmission back into the shop. I have done a couple of converter swaps, and have never heard of something happening like this...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles
Why are you anticipating high heat and using chrome rings? I haven't seen 'em used in anything other than circlejerker engine builds and understand they'll cause accelerated cylinder wall wear.
TC install, is this bad? 
01 SS Rally Red A4 #4987 
