I have 108K on my Transmission. Had my ss4000 for about 8K miles 2 1/2 years. I cut 1.58 60fts on a 75 shot of nitrous (11.79), 1.62's on motor and run (12.33). Change the fluid every 2K miles (I don't daily drive this so it's bout 1-2 times a year - fluid is cheap preventative maintenence). Change the filter every other fluid change. I have the big B&M cooler.
so no problems yet then...?
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Zero. just make sure you change the fluid and keep it cool. Most trans problems happen cause of over-heating. Get a deep pan with fins and a cooler, you should be good. Key words, "KEEP THAT TRANS. COOL." If you break the transmission while keeping the fluid clean and cool, you either have too much power for that trans to handle and it's going to fail anyway, or you beating the crap out of it and the fluid cannot stay cool.
I'm the only one that's gone from a bigger converter to a smaller one. lol I had a PI Vig 3600 and switched to a Vig 3200. I also added a 150 wet kit, but I like the feel of the 3200 for DD. The more power you add the higher it should flash too. Correct me if I am wrong.
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The more power you add the higher it should flash too. Correct me if I am wrong.
You are correct. You have to remember, a converter has no mechanical connection (besides the lock-up). The movement you get is all from fluid transfer. To an extent, the more power you put through the converter, the higer the RPM's will go (to a point). The internals of the converter and how it is built will determine how much "free spin" or "stall" you get. If I put my car in drive and let off the brake, it does move forward.
I took some videos of my RPM's while driving tonight. I don't know how much they will help you guys, but I will have my G/F post them tonight (I don't know how). I don't have my M'T's on so I couldn't show you how it "performs" under a heavy load, but I tried.
VIG 4000, truthfully more like a 4400.. Installed with full bolt ons ms4 410s ported prcls6 ported intake etc etc at 100k miles.. Taken out at 116k miles to sell and it still is good as new.. Owner still has it and everything is fine..
PTC 4000 2.4.. A true 4000.. hits hard as hell out of the hole (1.5s flat-high high 1.4s).. built 4l60e and not a problem with it.. full weight car 226 cam ported/milled 317s 373s ls6 intake etc etc
I would only recommend 4000 converters.. driving around town the difference is minimal.. WOT is the BIG difference..
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VIG 4000, truthfully more like a 4400.. Installed with full bolt ons ms4 410s ported prcls6 ported intake etc etc at 100k miles.. Taken out at 116k miles to sell and it still is good as new.. Owner still has it and everything is fine..
PTC 4000 2.4.. A true 4000.. hits hard as hell out of the hole (1.5s flat-high high 1.4s).. built 4l60e and not a problem with it.. full weight car 226 cam ported/milled 317s 373s ls6 intake etc etc
I would only recommend 4000 converters.. driving around town the difference is minimal.. WOT is the BIG difference..
I've been running a Yank ST3500 2.5str since 2005 and love it on the street and the track. I'm able to cut 1.5 60ft times with it so I'm happy
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What kind of RPMs are yall currently getting @ 70 mph? I DD mine w/ a 3500+ verter and stock 2:73 gears. 70 mph for me is right at 2000 rpm. I do like that part, however, city driving is rough for me. I'm trying to make a decision what gear ratio is the best for overall DD.
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I'm running a 3.73 gear and at 70mph I'm turning right at 2500
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What kind of RPMs are yall currently getting @ 70 mph? I DD mine w/ a 3500+ verter and stock 2:73 gears. 70 mph for me is right at 2000 rpm. I do like that part, however, city driving is rough for me. I'm trying to make a decision what gear ratio is the best for overall DD.
Anything over 45 MPH (or what ever you have lock-up set to) will be exactly the same RPM's you would get from a stock converter. The lock-up clutch eliminates (Stall).
What kind of RPMs are yall currently getting @ 70 mph? I DD mine w/ a 3500+ verter and stock 2:73 gears. 70 mph for me is right at 2000 rpm. I do like that part, however, city driving is rough for me. I'm trying to make a decision what gear ratio is the best for overall DD.
Anything over 45 MPH (or what ever you have lock-up set to) will be exactly the same RPM's you would get from a stock converter. The lock-up clutch eliminates (Stall).
I'm not sure what you mean?
I really want to know how lower gears will effect daily driving. I'm thinking of switching to 3:42s or 3:73s. . .
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I really want to know how lower gears will effect daily driving. I'm thinking of switching to 3:42s or 3:73s. . .
Sorry, I was under the impression you were asking about how the stall would affect you since this was the Auto Transmission section. My bad. You may want to do a search in the "gears and axle" section. For auto, people usually go with the 3.73. I went with a 3.42 because I snagged a whole rear from a six speed car for $250.00 then I sold my old one with the 2.73 for $250.00. Basically a free upgrade for 2 hours worth of work.
You're cammed? Right? Doesn't that make some diff?
Yeah, I've got a built motor now but even before it was built I still turned right at 2500 at 70mph locked up in OD on the internally stock motor.
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question. i want to go with a 4000 stall from yanks , on another car i have i used a ATI 4200 STALL it would stall at 2200 loaded on the line but would flash to 4200 as soon as i hit it off the line are these converters designed the same way ? ..thanks