Over the course of next spring I'm looking to stall my car. Question is its my dd so I want it to be totally streetable untuned hence y im not doing a cam. I was looking at a 3600 but everyone seems to say bigger is better and go with a 4000? I cant seem to find any good vids of either being driven normally. How many rpms will it take to get the car moving? I will be going yank as they have the higher str and Im sure ill like the tight feel. I have 2.73s in back so hopefully thatll help keeps rpms down on take off. Before anyone says change the gears i do a lot of hwy driving so atleast with the stall in lock up my rpms will stay down.
__________________ 1966 Mustang long tubes, true duals, holley 350,detroit locker, all original otherwise. Grandpa left it to me
FTI is the way to go. Ide get a 4000 atleast. There stalls are very tight. I can let off mine and it will move on its own. Even on a slight incline. But when you mash the pedal that thing wakes up like crazy and flashes. Those gears are going to SUCK no matter. Ide def. gear up also. Give Greg @ FTI a call and he can surely hook you up!
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Originally Posted by JPH
Yeah your BIG stall, gear ratio, and tire size and your goals put you in or on the "kill" mode column. LOL
If you're keeping your engine mostly stock except for a few bolt ons, I think a 3k will better suit what your trying to do. I just got a 4k from a guy on here that just had bolt ons and he said it was to much for his set up. Where the car launched was just 2k shy of where it shifted. I had a 3k Yank and he and swapped, he's very happy with the 3k, he says the car is all around better. Just my 2 1/2 cents.
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1999 Camaro Z28: (OEM SS Hood, Wing) Fast 90/90 w/Speed Inc Fuel Rails, 42lb. Injectors, FLT Level 5 Trans, PTC SS3800 Stall,T-Rex Cam, Dart 205cc Heads, Powerbond Underdrive Pulley, BMR Suspension w/UMI Tunnel Mount Torque Arm, Hooker Headers & Y-Pipe, Magnaflow Catback, TRE 255lph Intank Pump w/MSD 255lph Inline Pump, BMR 1.2" Lowering Springs, Drilled & Slotted Rotors, NOS
I realize I will need a tune I just didnt want the hassle of tuning for a cam since I'm away at college so I cant really have any mishaps. Thanks Ill give fti a call
__________________ 1966 Mustang long tubes, true duals, holley 350,detroit locker, all original otherwise. Grandpa left it to me
are you planning on a cam in the near future? if not you MIGHT want to go with abit smaller cam. Just give greg a call, he will ask you all sorts of questions, and spec you a converter. They build each one as a per customer basis.
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Originally Posted by JPH
Yeah your BIG stall, gear ratio, and tire size and your goals put you in or on the "kill" mode column. LOL
No def not in the near future atleast which is why I was rn between the 3600 and 4000 as Ive heard soo many people get the 36 then turn around and say they should have went to 4k.
__________________ 1966 Mustang long tubes, true duals, holley 350,detroit locker, all original otherwise. Grandpa left it to me
Daily driven, a terrible 234/230 cam, Level 2 Performabuilt trans, and 4k stall (1.69str), 3.73s. All i have to say, is street tires on the back of this thing HATE me!! Im really wanting to see what happens with a good set of DRs though.
If you get a stall and run untuned its likely gonna make the car a pain in the ass to drive bc shift points will be off and it probably will bang the limiter when its time to shift. I drove a 3200 for about 2 months untuned and it wasnt too bad but after having a tune, then switching to a 4k later it starting hitting the limiter. Between my 3200 and 4000, there is only a couple hundred rpms different between the two in part throttle take off. They are very similar and the average person wouldnt be able to tell them apart. Gears play a big part in how much throttle it takes to get the car moving. If you insist on staying with 2.73s, I would go conservative and say 3200. I drove that on a stock cam and it almost completely got rid of dead spots between shifts. Shift extension was about 4900 with the 3200 converter. Now with the 4k, shift extension is 5500, and thats a difference you can FEEL. With a 4k and 2.73s, I could see you having to push 2500+rpms just to stay with traffic at part thottle. That eats a shitload of gas if you do any significant city driving
if you plan on putting nitrous on in the future, go with the smaller stall, nitrous will run better with the 3600, but if its motor car id go with the 4000
I've driven my 5000 stall for a few summers, NO lockup.. Noisy but driveable.
My current 4500 Vigilante stall is NICE to drive. You can get into flowing traffic without revving over 2500.. It's also a non-lockup. You can snap big revs at the tip of a toe and when you stand on it... instant 4500.. powerglide trans, 3.73 gears, 28" tire. 3000rpm is about 65mph according to my GPS.
Using a 4k stall with those gears is only going to make you use more gas pedal to get moving. It'll seem like it's slipping more. Decent gear ratios make a stall much more street friendly. 2.73s are a bit much, find a set of 3.42s or something.
__________________ 94Z28, full bolt-ons, LE heads and 222/226 Joe O. cam, Wolfe CM 6-point, Nitro Daves plate kit (140 shot), Yank SS3600, 3.73s, Bogart wheels, MT tires. 11.88 @114mph NA, 10.75 @ 125mph juiced w/factory shortblock, trans, and 10 bolt.
You want a lower gear than the 273s.. That will make the converter feel even more loose than it already is..
4000 is the perfect compromise for DD and performance. I drove a VIG 4400 for a little over a year and now have a PTC 4000 and have been driving it for around 4 months.
Even with bolt ons a 4000 with perform better than say a 3200, this has been proven over and over.
Once you hit lock up (40mph or so) it will be like having a stock converter car.
Here is a vid of my old VIG.. I am giving it quite a bit of gas in this vid.. I usually picked up around 2400RPMs in town, that would allow me to pull away from cars doing normal pick ups from red lights and what not..
Sorry not exactly what you want to see, but its the best I got..
__________________ 00 Pewter T/A A4 - Full Weight - ....Stock....
00 Onyx Black T/A A4 (girlfriends car) - Full Weight DD - RIP - 8.4@85.5mph NA(pre-converter) 2400DA 98 Artic White T/A A4 - DD - SOLD - 7.20@96mph NA 2000DA spinning/no tune
Daily drivers- 02 954RR - modded, 94 Ford Tempo
Past Rides- 02 F4i, 98 Z28 M6, 99 3.8 V6 Firebird, 95 3.4 V6 Camaro
I had a Vig 3600 for a short time. Swap in a 4000 stall and didn't really feel any difference in part throttle driving between the two. Now, at the track is a TOTALLY different story!
__________________ '94 Z28 H/C/I 4L60E/4000 4.10 SPEED INC./ELLIOTTPORTWORKS/MADTUNER/NITROUS EXPRESS Stock bottom-end LT1 11.04@122.18 NA USMC "Semper Fi till I die!" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVoh7sKxt1g
A 4000 stall on a stock cam is a waste of money IMO.
You're going to flash to a high RPM only to have the cam peter out 1500rpms later.
Why not spend half that and get a cam first.
A 4000 stall on a stock cam is a waste of money IMO.
You're going to flash to a high RPM only to have the cam peter out 1500rpms later.
Why not spend half that and get a cam first.
Thats probably the dumbest thing I have read all day. And the worst logic.
Agree.. The majority of the fastest stock internal cars have big stalls. An efficient stall will help all around. He would probably benefit from 2.73s if he decides to spray in the future.
4000 stall? come on in!!! 
01 SS Rally Red A4 #4987 
powerglide trans, 3.73 gears, 28" tire. 3000rpm is about 65mph according to my GPS.
94Z28, full bolt-ons, LE heads and 222/226 Joe O. cam, Wolfe CM 6-point, Nitro Daves plate kit (140 shot), Yank SS3600, 3.73s, Bogart wheels, MT tires. 11.88 @114mph NA, 10.75 @ 125mph juiced w/factory shortblock, trans, and 10 bolt. 
