4l60e 2-3 shift flare after rebuild please help
10-31-2010, 08:47 AM
#1
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4l60e 2-3 shift flare after rebuild please help hello.i have a 2000 ws6.my tranny lost 3rd gear so i had it rebuilt with some upgrades,well after i installed it,the tranny shifts through all gears fine,but now its got a terrible shift flare between 2-3 at wot it actually hits the rev limiter,so i cant run it hard.has anyone every expreienced this?and can someone show me what to check?thanks
10-31-2010, 11:01 AM
#2
Check the 3-4 clutch clearance, the 2nd servo travel, if the seperater plate was altered (shift kit) the band release and 3rd apply hole sizes need to be corrected.
The problem is usually the band is releasing before the 3-4 clutch applies. It could also be a hydraulic leak in the 3rd gear circuit. It could be a problem with friction material selection and/or number of frictions in the 3-4 clutch.
The problem is usually the band is releasing before the 3-4 clutch applies. It could also be a hydraulic leak in the 3rd gear circuit. It could be a problem with friction material selection and/or number of frictions in the 3-4 clutch.
10-31-2010, 11:16 AM
#3
Yeah sounds like a clutch clearance issue. A hydraulic leak in the ckt is possible as well (ie. bad seal/bonded piston) Could literally be a dozen thigns. You need to take it back NOW b4 you burn up the 3-4 pack. If you built it yourself, well, thats why people dont build transmissions themselves. I always air check my clutch packs so I know the clutch piston sealing integrity is NOT the problem should something arrise later. Depending on clutches used, and how many, and how much line press. yer running will dictate the clutch pack clearance, which in most cases is around .030 or less, any more will cause delay in piston travel.
10-31-2010, 01:03 PM
#4
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i will check with my builder to see how many clutches he used.i know they are borg warners.anyway,when i put my tranny back in,i went with a 3200 stall.do you think my ecm wiill have to be retuned to get the shifts right?im using vacuum modulation,so i dont know if i will need to get it retuned to get the right shift points.but the reason 3rd went out originally was because of a bad oring in the servo.(so my builder says).so instead of replacing the oring he grabs another servo off the shelf.im reading alot where the servo pin length has a lot to do with the timing of the release and engaement of the 2-4 band.if so,then he didnt adjust or check for proper pin length of the servo.could that cause 2-3 shift flare?at partial throttle its about 2-300 rpm at wot it goes into the rev limiter.at this point i really dont trust his build.DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A REPUTABLE PERFORMANCE MINDED BUILDER IN THE DALLAS FORT WORTH METROPLEX THAT KNOWS 4L60Es ENOUGH TO HELP ME?this guy im dealing with is always 3 hours late,if he shows up at all.im just fed up and i want this tranny to go right the first time.can anyone tell me where to turn?
10-31-2010, 02:50 PM
#5
I used to work in Fort Worth and drive past Phoenix Transmissions in Weatherford, they're approx 30 minutes west. I've heard good things about them around the internet forums but no personal experiences.
10-31-2010, 07:27 PM
#6
dont know when the last time you drove by Phoenix.....but they used to have their shop right before downtown.....new shop is now on the way out of town towards mineral wells....by the old drive inn.....when i rebuilt my 700r they installed the bushings for me
10-31-2010, 08:20 PM
#7
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ive never heard of em.but what i dont know could fill a library.i went to their website.how shall i put this..they are very expensive.seems like anyway.i will give em a shout.you get what you pay for i guess.i do like the idea of having the tranny dyno tested.im thinking my problem is with the servo he just randomly threw in.i dont think the 2-4 band is releasing at the right time but thats justa wild guess which is probably part of that library i was talking about...
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11-04-2010, 07:41 PM
#8
get the car on jackstands and put a prybar with a socket up against the band servo and using the tunnel push in on the servo and see how far it will depress. I usually set mine up to only move about 1/16 ". If its not right this isnt the end of the world. They make a universal pin that you can grind the tip down if its too long and it comes with a tip/cap that you put on if its too short. Its been awhile so I dont remember where to get it. Or you can hunt down the right pin, or you can get shims from transgo I think to put behind the cover to eat up the slack. If he has the shortest pin in there, I suppose this could be the issue. In any sense, I dont think I would trust he set the clutch pack up correctly either, or that he even installed all the seals correctly, lol. You can always pull it out and send it to me.
