I have a turbo car, and i prefer autos because i can spool off the line, and i dont loose any boost each time i shift.... plus autos shift nice and fast, and i just prefer autos in daily drivers...
BUT
my 4l60e will not hold 700tq for more then a week which is how much torque i'll have (prolly more) th400 is out of the question because i want my overdrive, and 4l80es cost ALOT of money to be run right... (just a grand alone for the computer system)
I found a nice, rebuilt t56 with a clutch that i can get for a grand..... but the thing with manuals is that, i cant boost off the line, they're very tough on the rear on the launch, and everytime you shift, you loose boost (bout 15psi) but they are fun to drive (even though i prefer autos) and m6s are killers for roll racing (i try to stay away from street racing though)
so what do you say....
Keep the 4l60e, spend a grand on it, and build it as best as you can (most i would say is around 600rwtq)
or get a t56 and forget bout braking it, altough now u have to worry bout ur rearend, and ure gunna be loosing boost everytime u shift....
I have a turbo car, and i prefer autos because i can spool off the line, and i dont loose any boost each time i shift.... plus autos shift nice and fast, and i just prefer autos in daily drivers...
BUT
my 4l60e will not hold 700tq for more then a week which is how much torque i'll have (prolly more) th400 is out of the question because i want my overdrive, and 4l80es cost ALOT of money to be run right... (just a grand alone for the computer system)
I found a nice, rebuilt t56 with a clutch that i can get for a grand..... but the thing with manuals is that, i cant boost off the line, they're very tough on the rear on the launch, and everytime you shift, you loose boost (bout 15psi) but they are fun to drive (even though i prefer autos) and m6s are killers for roll racing (i try to stay away from street racing though)
so what do you say....
Keep the 4l60e, spend a grand on it, and build it as best as you can (most i would say is around 600rwtq)
or get a t56 and forget bout braking it, altough now u have to worry bout ur rearend, and ure gunna be loosing boost everytime u shift....
If you race at the drag strip auto's are a must. If you don't I would get the T56 and you could vent the extra boost, to make that piss sound, witch sounds petty COOL.
I have a turbo car, and i prefer autos because i can spool off the line, and i dont loose any boost each time i shift.... plus autos shift nice and fast, and i just prefer autos in daily drivers...
BUT
my 4l60e will not hold 700tq for more then a week which is how much torque i'll have (prolly more) th400 is out of the question because i want my overdrive, and 4l80es cost ALOT of money to be run right... (just a grand alone for the computer system)
I found a nice, rebuilt t56 with a clutch that i can get for a grand..... but the thing with manuals is that, i cant boost off the line, they're very tough on the rear on the launch, and everytime you shift, you loose boost (bout 15psi) but they are fun to drive (even though i prefer autos) and m6s are killers for roll racing (i try to stay away from street racing though)
so what do you say....
Keep the 4l60e, spend a grand on it, and build it as best as you can (most i would say is around 600rwtq)
or get a t56 and forget bout braking it, altough now u have to worry bout ur rearend, and ure gunna be loosing boost everytime u shift....
Well your definately right,stick with the auto. You will be more consistant and ultimately, faster down the track. I would consider going the 4L80E route. It will take the kinda power you are pushing for along time. I've seen and heard 4L60E's taking that power but....for how long.
don't get me wrong,i love this trans but at that power level and above well,you know. What you can do for now is get a 4L80E built and installed and run it with a vacuum modulator and a manual electronic pushbutton shifter in it (to control the shift solenoiods) until you can afford to buy the stand alone computer setup. Sticks are fun but difficult on the track and like you said very hard on the driveline, it must be virtually bulletproof to hit it really hard and not break anything w/a stick. Then theres the whole clutch $$$ and slipping issues. IMO the kind of money you'll spend to make that stick setup work will exceed a very reliable auto and would be better spent on a badass auto. whichever auto you chose. Besides it doesn't sound like you want to loose your auto anyway.
just my .02
__________________ 78 cutlass w/carb. 383 93LT1, Ported LT1 heads w/5 angle and radius seats,2.00/1.56 Manley Pro-Flo, Crane dual springs, Comp.XR.242/248-576/598
@106on110LSA,CSI wp,3.73disc.rear,3400stall Pro-Torq 10.5"conv.4L60 W/5 pinion planets,Z-Pak
3-4,roller everything,Trans-Go full manual v.b.,many other mods. Hurst Qtr.stick.
Old times- 13.7@104.2 New times- 12.26@110.58 w/1.80 60' on street tires! 225-60-15 ! ! ! 3640lb race wt. w/stock susp. That 60' tells me i built an 11sec.car!!!!!!
Another thing with the manual trans is always having clutch issues and replacing them. I've seen more miles and track passes on a stock 4L60E before having to spend lots of money on a rebuilt verses having to constently replacing your clutch in your T-56. If you want to do it right you are going to spend money either way.
Sounds like a case of wanting to have your cake and eat it too. The 4l60e and 700 rwtq is a no go. And we all know a T-56 with your set-up is not a serious option. Since you wdon't want to sport for a 4l80e or for gear vendors, you're going to have to forget overdrive if you want to drive at all. A TH400 is about it ...
__________________ 00 Formula Bright Silver A4 Bolt-ons, SS3600 stall, 3.42s; 12.47/109.62/1.71 09 G8 GT Black/Onyx 19's, sport pkg - stock - wife's car 69 GTO Judge 400 4 spd.
69 GTO 428 TH400 01 T/A SOM M6 - Sold
Getting a tranny to hold power isn't going to be cheap no matter what you get. You might be able to get a T56 cheaper than a TH400 with GVO, 4L80E, 200R4...but don't forget that you're going to need a high dollar clutch to go with that M6
Just something to think about
__________________ Officially the Fastest street driven LS1 in St.louis
I went there and read that thread. That kid hasn't got a clue what he's doing. He's completely dependent on other people doing his work for him, and he's basically a moron. Are you honestly saying THAT thread changed your opinion? That's really sad. I can't stand whiney little kids who think the world owes them. I'm sure it was his bitching that got him the TCI controller.
I have a TCI TCU in my truck. I absolutely LOVE that controller. I've got my 4L80-E shifting at exactly where I want it for any given throttle position. Around town driving easy it shifts silky smooth, lay into the throttle and it'll snap you into the seat. To get it tweaked that well it needs to be programmed by THE DRIVER. It's simple and only requires a laptop.
The jackass in the other thread also talks about moaning coming from his transmission. Does this mean you think they all do that? Come on...
Besides all that, I would recommend Art Carr or PATC only to people I HATE because of the horrible workmanship in their builds.
Opinions are never worth more than the people they come from.
__________________ 78 cutlass w/carb. 383 93LT1, Ported LT1 heads w/5 angle and radius seats,2.00/1.56 Manley Pro-Flo, Crane dual springs, Comp.XR.242/248-576/598
@106on110LSA,CSI wp,3.73disc.rear,3400stall Pro-Torq 10.5"conv.4L60 W/5 pinion planets,Z-Pak
3-4,roller everything,Trans-Go full manual v.b.,many other mods. Hurst Qtr.stick.
Old times- 13.7@104.2 New times- 12.26@110.58 w/1.80 60' on street tires! 225-60-15 ! ! ! 3640lb race wt. w/stock susp. That 60' tells me i built an 11sec.car!!!!!!
I am gonna do my best to show you some very good points.
There is a money issue here. Also you seem like your gonna run at the track. Therefore we need the "best" track setup possible for your budget. 1000 dollars gets you no where.
If you switch to a M6 you have the costs of the new tranny.
1500 dollars.
You will now need a very good clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, shifter, and all the misc $$$'s in conversion parts and labor.
1500-2000 dollars.
Rear end.
2250 give or take a few bucks, plus 200 bucks for install.
Lets say 5500 bucks.
Now you can sell you tranny which almost nobody would want for maybe 400 dollars.
So your out at least 5000 total.
Going the 4L60E route your will need a top notch trans. Maybe a stage 5 FLP.
2700 bucks.
If you plan on racing serious that 10 bolt is still gonna break dead hooking with 700 lbs of boost.
2250 +/- plus install
You will need a nice stall converter if you dont already have one.
850 +/-100 dollars depending on the company.
You might not need the rearend right away, but you will more than likely need it at sometime.
Basicially 3600 dollars if you dont have a converter.
And about 5900 total when you get the rearend.
I would do the A4.
But now you have a problem with the 4L60E not taking the power your making.
Here is a fix, and another way to look at this problem.
Lets say you set the boost to make only 575 instead of 700 so you dont break your trans. You will probally still go as fast or faster if your were making 700 and had a M6. Loosing boost between shifts, launching at low boost, taking longer to shift are all things that hurt your ET. That would make it another vote toward the A4.
Now your scared of the torque killing the trans.
A good fix it to run a progressive boost controller.
Lets say 15lbs='s700HP/TQ
10LBS='s 550 HP/TQ
When you launch only spool enough to get you moving.
As you increase RPM's you will increase boost. Limit the boost at maybe 12 psi so you never make 700 HP but you still pull mad crazy. Again you are still faster then you would be in the M6 and your having a consistant run.
I suggest doing the T400 but I understand about the 3 gear thing as it does suck.
Good luck in whatever you do and sorry for the book I just wrote at 4AM.
my Rock On Transmissions tranny is holding 703 rwhp and 775rwtq. I am going back to the track this weekend to beat on it some more like I have since I got it. You need a good tranny builder...follow his instructions and watch those tranny temps. Vid in sig
__________________ 9.29 @ 150 at 14psi
3960# raceweight
OFI s488
Transformance 4l80 with rossler tbrake
408 with etp heads
3.08 rear
Yank PY3400 stall
Bmr everything
Go with a 2004r from a Monte Carlo SS or a Turbo Buick. It has to be one of these because the have a performance valvebody. Go to turbobuick.com and find a good tranny shop that can build it up to handle the power you putting out. There are a few guys running 9's in the turbobuicks with the 2004rs holding up.
keep the auto, or switch to m6 
