post 3 and 4 directly contradict each other...so which is it? Obviously it would be easier w/ no headers on at all...but how difficult is it really w/ headers on?
I installed my sphon motor mounts on mine without taking the headers off. It was a total pain in the ass, but I was able to do it in my garage over the course of two days. You just need to drop the starter/ac/alternator to make it just a bit easier.
__________________ SLP lid, P/P throttle body, Pacesetter LT; ORY, Magnaflow catback, UD pulley, Solid Motor Mounts, Hurst Short Throw, TNA short stick,and street tune. All with stock tips baby!
Maybe I just like the extra work, but even though it seems like the longer route, removing the headers does make it easier. I dont like to fight things. I've tried to short cut things and not remove stuff and it never works out for me so I dont even try anymore lol It usually ends up costing me more time or money than if I would have done it right the first time.
__________________ 04 Raven CTS-V / Forged and maggied LS6 / 90mm TB / 8 rib pulleys / 8" overdrive balancer with 2.7" blower pulley / LG G5X1 / Crane 1.8 gold rollers / 1 7/8 Kooks / ARP hardware throughout / Melling oil pump / Cloyes double roller / Volant CAI / Fidanza LS7 flywheel / Spec Stage 3 / Ground Control / QA1's / RC51 motor mounts / UUC diff, and shifter bushings / UUC Vknob / Katech STS / Rear strut bar / Kars III
It would be harder because you can remove the cats off the manifolds and have plenty of room to work. The long tubes go all the way down and under the bell housing so there is much less room under there with headers.
__________________ 04 Raven CTS-V / Forged and maggied LS6 / 90mm TB / 8 rib pulleys / 8" overdrive balancer with 2.7" blower pulley / LG G5X1 / Crane 1.8 gold rollers / 1 7/8 Kooks / ARP hardware throughout / Melling oil pump / Cloyes double roller / Volant CAI / Fidanza LS7 flywheel / Spec Stage 3 / Ground Control / QA1's / RC51 motor mounts / UUC diff, and shifter bushings / UUC Vknob / Katech STS / Rear strut bar / Kars III
It would be harder because you can remove the cats off the manifolds and have plenty of room to work. The long tubes go all the way down and under the bell housing so there is much less room under there with headers.
That doesnt make any sence.
Because you dont have to remove the cats from the stock manifold to change out the motor mounts.
almost everyone has done it without touching any thing on the stock headers.
__________________ 05 CTSV : Comp 220-224 112 cam _ patriot gold spring and tit retainers and hardend push rods_ efi tune _ Kooks 1 7/8 _ Custom anti-wheel hop bar (kars replica) _K&N Intake _ Spec 3+ clutch kit _ Creative steel motor mounts _ UUC Diff Bushing _ 80a urethane trans mount
Because you dont have to remove the cats from the stock manifold to change out the motor mounts.
almost everyone has done it without touching any thing on the stock headers.
Either way, instead of having one pipe, now you have four that take up much more room than the cat does. Why dont you quit asking and just fucking try it. Best way to learn is hands on. If you cant get them out with the headers on just pull them off! WOW how hard is that?
__________________ 04 Raven CTS-V / Forged and maggied LS6 / 90mm TB / 8 rib pulleys / 8" overdrive balancer with 2.7" blower pulley / LG G5X1 / Crane 1.8 gold rollers / 1 7/8 Kooks / ARP hardware throughout / Melling oil pump / Cloyes double roller / Volant CAI / Fidanza LS7 flywheel / Spec Stage 3 / Ground Control / QA1's / RC51 motor mounts / UUC diff, and shifter bushings / UUC Vknob / Katech STS / Rear strut bar / Kars III
Either way, instead of having one pipe, now you have four that take up much more room than the cat does. Why dont you quit asking and just fucking try it. Best way to learn is hands on. If you cant get them out with the headers on just pull them off! WOW how hard is that?
Either way, instead of having one pipe, now you have four that take up much more room than the cat does. Why dont you quit asking and just fucking try it. Best way to learn is hands on. If you cant get them out with the headers on just pull them off! WOW how hard is that?
if the giant stock cat ins't in the way, then why would the pipes be in the way?
Id like info from someone who has done the install . Learning hands on is fun, but If I could get tips and shortcuts from some one who has already done is a big help.
Thats what the forums are for. The share helpfull information with other V owners not for bored assholes like you.
I assume you have never installed headers on the V , Its kind of a pain in the ass. So I'd like to avoid it if possible.
please dont trash this thread anymore unless you have some usefull information.
__________________ 05 CTSV : Comp 220-224 112 cam _ patriot gold spring and tit retainers and hardend push rods_ efi tune _ Kooks 1 7/8 _ Custom anti-wheel hop bar (kars replica) _K&N Intake _ Spec 3+ clutch kit _ Creative steel motor mounts _ UUC Diff Bushing _ 80a urethane trans mount
See everything in my sig? Yeah, I installed it. I have turned every bolt that has been removed from my car. I've had the engine and trans out and in several times. I've changed motor mounts more than once with the engine in and out of the car. I've had the headers off more than once. Motor mounts are a big pain in the ass and I pulled the headers. You can do it however the fuck you want.
Obviously you have never installed motor mounts on the V. Its kind of a pain in the ass and is much easier with the headers removed but I'm sure it can be done. Hey! What a novel idea! Why dont you try it and tell us how it goes since nobody here has done it with headers on! Gotta start somewhere!
__________________ 04 Raven CTS-V / Forged and maggied LS6 / 90mm TB / 8 rib pulleys / 8" overdrive balancer with 2.7" blower pulley / LG G5X1 / Crane 1.8 gold rollers / 1 7/8 Kooks / ARP hardware throughout / Melling oil pump / Cloyes double roller / Volant CAI / Fidanza LS7 flywheel / Spec Stage 3 / Ground Control / QA1's / RC51 motor mounts / UUC diff, and shifter bushings / UUC Vknob / Katech STS / Rear strut bar / Kars III