My take on MM Spacers for the rear
#1
My take on MM Spacers for the rear
I lowered my car but didn't like the design of the mightymouse spacers that I got CAD drawings of. The force is transmitted through 2 bolts into a .25" plate and it leaves a hole in the shock tower for crap to spray through unless you plug it up somehow. I decided to take it a different direction and weld a 1.5"x.095" tube onto the bottom plate and then weld a cap on that. It gives me the spacing I need without any of the drawbacks of the MM spacers, PLUS I didn't have to buy anything from the hardware store
They probably could have used a little paint, but I was in a hurry.
Sorry for the blurrypics, the camera on my droid sucks unless everything is perfect.
If anyone is interested, I can make a set for you no problem. I'd probably have them CNC plasma cut instead of hand plasma cut.
They probably could have used a little paint, but I was in a hurry.
Sorry for the blurrypics, the camera on my droid sucks unless everything is perfect.
If anyone is interested, I can make a set for you no problem. I'd probably have them CNC plasma cut instead of hand plasma cut.
#6
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but its always nice to have different options.
any pics of the ride after you lowered her?
#7
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
I like your idea of keeping the plate closer to the clamping surface, so to speak. I bet those MM ones are OK [I won't ask how much they are though for such a simple piece ] with regard to the forces' direction, but still may as well eliminate that extra concern. I don't think I'll ever lower mine, but like the ideas!
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
I like your idea of keeping the plate closer to the clamping surface, so to speak. I bet those MM ones are OK [I won't ask how much they are though for such a simple piece ] with regard to the forces' direction, but still may as well eliminate that extra concern. I don't think I'll ever lower mine, but like the ideas!
#9
I'm probably going to end up making a few sets in a couple weeks. They will be CNC plasma cut from 1/4" steel, tig welded, and powder coated with all the hardware. I'll get a price nailed down and let you guys know.
Also, I'll take some pics of the lowered ride tomorrow
Also, I'll take some pics of the lowered ride tomorrow
#15
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (59)
Figure if you spot people a couple years and give away the the original design, there is bound to be innovation.
I used bolts and spacers to keep the pice down and make it adjustable. Either of the two 3/8 bolts are thicker than the shock shaft itself. This design here should get the job done fine provided the welds are strong and don't corrode or crack.
My original stuff was proven at the dragstrip, daily beat, and roadcourse before I started sharing out the design, and I still have never heard of a single issue thus far. I strongly reccomend that happen with this version as well to avoid issues/accidents.
Only thing I remember was an 'internet engineers' that decided to get people wound up about the plate thickness even though I had done my real world and FEA testing of 3/16 material. That drove me to step to 1/4 plate for absolutely no structural reason. I see this design not really 'needing' it either.
It would be easy to sandwich a piece of rubber in there to eliminate 'crap spray' but since its not actually a problem in real life, I didn't bother increasing the cost.
So I guess last thing as far as anyone considering a lowering fix is that I reccomend not making fix decisions based on speculation of a problem and concentrate on real ones. It is exciting to see new ideas tho!
Regardless get out there enjoying your car and a proper lower ride height
I used bolts and spacers to keep the pice down and make it adjustable. Either of the two 3/8 bolts are thicker than the shock shaft itself. This design here should get the job done fine provided the welds are strong and don't corrode or crack.
My original stuff was proven at the dragstrip, daily beat, and roadcourse before I started sharing out the design, and I still have never heard of a single issue thus far. I strongly reccomend that happen with this version as well to avoid issues/accidents.
Only thing I remember was an 'internet engineers' that decided to get people wound up about the plate thickness even though I had done my real world and FEA testing of 3/16 material. That drove me to step to 1/4 plate for absolutely no structural reason. I see this design not really 'needing' it either.
It would be easy to sandwich a piece of rubber in there to eliminate 'crap spray' but since its not actually a problem in real life, I didn't bother increasing the cost.
So I guess last thing as far as anyone considering a lowering fix is that I reccomend not making fix decisions based on speculation of a problem and concentrate on real ones. It is exciting to see new ideas tho!
Regardless get out there enjoying your car and a proper lower ride height
#16
Figure if you spot people a couple years and give away the the original design, there is bound to be innovation.
I used bolts and spacers to keep the pice down and make it adjustable. Either of the two 3/8 bolts are thicker than the shock shaft itself. This design here should get the job done fine provided the welds are strong and don't corrode or crack.
My original stuff was proven at the dragstrip, daily beat, and roadcourse before I started sharing out the design, and I still have never heard of a single issue thus far. I strongly reccomend that happen with this version as well to avoid issues/accidents.
Only thing I remember was an 'internet engineers' that decided to get people wound up about the plate thickness even though I had done my real world and FEA testing of 3/16 material. That drove me to step to 1/4 plate for absolutely no structural reason. I see this design not really 'needing' it either.
It would be easy to sandwich a piece of rubber in there to eliminate 'crap spray' but since its not actually a problem in real life, I didn't bother increasing the cost.
So I guess last thing as far as anyone considering a lowering fix is that I reccomend not making fix decisions based on speculation of a problem and concentrate on real ones. It is exciting to see new ideas tho!
Regardless get out there enjoying your car and a proper lower ride height
I used bolts and spacers to keep the pice down and make it adjustable. Either of the two 3/8 bolts are thicker than the shock shaft itself. This design here should get the job done fine provided the welds are strong and don't corrode or crack.
My original stuff was proven at the dragstrip, daily beat, and roadcourse before I started sharing out the design, and I still have never heard of a single issue thus far. I strongly reccomend that happen with this version as well to avoid issues/accidents.
Only thing I remember was an 'internet engineers' that decided to get people wound up about the plate thickness even though I had done my real world and FEA testing of 3/16 material. That drove me to step to 1/4 plate for absolutely no structural reason. I see this design not really 'needing' it either.
It would be easy to sandwich a piece of rubber in there to eliminate 'crap spray' but since its not actually a problem in real life, I didn't bother increasing the cost.
So I guess last thing as far as anyone considering a lowering fix is that I reccomend not making fix decisions based on speculation of a problem and concentrate on real ones. It is exciting to see new ideas tho!
Regardless get out there enjoying your car and a proper lower ride height
+1 for anyone "concerned" about the durability of the mightymouse kit. I've absolutely THRASHED mine around one of the roughest road-courses in the states; Sebring, and have about 12 autocross events with the car running the MM spacer kit with H&R springs.