Location: Nashville, TN and I said I can post in the Southern section ,that's who!
Posts: 3,836
As promised , more pics. First off , if you looked a while back in this thread , you'd notice where I showed you that the BBK throttle body wasn't quite up to par in the polished dept. around the throttle blade . With a little help from Standard Abrasives , I took care of that. I started off with a medium grit roll on my die grinder to get this :
When you do this , you want to a smooth , sweeping motion , don't stop in one spot and "dig" , keep lightly going around the circumferenceuntil you have a smooth level surface.
After that step , I used the scotchbrite rolls in the kit until the surface was a very smooth , semi shiny , silk texture. This will flow well and not cause turbulence:
This techinique can be used on you stock unit , also. Just be sure to blow out any grit and wipe it down with good cleaning solvent like lacquer thinner afterwards. I then popped it on:
Location: Nashville, TN and I said I can post in the Southern section ,that's who!
Posts: 3,836
I also installed in the BMR strut tower brace. Sorry about the pic quality on this one , batteries were low. Here you go:
We now come to a part I was dreading : replacing the heater core . It wasn't as bad as I thought because the interior was partialy dissassembled anyway. Here's all the way stripped and heater core removed. This is one area you do NOT want to go cheap on . Buy a good quality one! I bought mine from NAPA.:
Got it in , but I let the dash off to remove some wiring and unneeded modules from the TBI setup. I then began to install the Coolflex heater hoses . I also have the matching upper and lower radiator hoses. They look really nice in person:
Had to stop there until the billet hose separators/hold downs arrive . I'll have more pics for you folks in a couple of days.
Location: Nashville, TN and I said I can post in the Southern section ,that's who!
Posts: 3,836
You'll use the stock harness/PCM that came with the LS1 but you'll need to convert it . Some guys will do it themselves or you can get someone like Speartech to do it for you. After the conversion , it's really simple. Painless Wiring also offers a premade wiring kit.
You should go through street and performance and have them chrome your valve covers and coil brackets. I have a set I may not use. I'll PM you about them.
__________________ '98 NBM Formula M6/ Hooker Super Comps w/TSP True Duals/ lid/custom 85/85 FAST/ CNC Ported 241's/ Streetsweeper 228/232 on a 111 LSA/ Six Speeds Inc. Stage 4 T-56/ Hurst Billet Plus with chopped stick/ Monster Level 3 clutch/ S60 w/ 4.30s and a spool www.michiganspeed.com
Last edited by LS1Formulation; 01-18-2007 at 03:06 PM..
Location: Nashville, TN and I said I can post in the Southern section ,that's who!
Posts: 3,836
Well, got out today and decided to get busy in the garage.We're going to deal with the rear Baer brakes today.
First, removed the rear axles and installed the supplied baking plates for the calipers:
After making sure they were flush and the bolts were tight against the factory axle flange , reinstalled & reassembled the the rear axles. I snapped this quick pic because it is just good sense. You definitely want to put thread locker on the bolt that retains the pin that keeps the C-clips and axles in place. If that little bolt backs out ( especially at speed ) bad things are gonna happen! Note red on bolt:
Then , hung the rotors back on , and installed the calipers. Now we'll need to install the stainless lines and braided lines along with the parking brake cables.
Yeah , yeah , I know , y'all thought I had forgotten about this thread and you.
okay leave'em polished then.
