All 6 cylinder e36 radiators are the same except for the radiator from the M coupe which is 1/4" thicker. That's the one I am using, but i think the "regular" one would do the job just fine. For the RX-7 folks, the overall size of that radiator is larger than what is typically used in those conversions and larger than the stock F-body radiator.
I understand about the steering shaft, but that is all easier said than done and sometimes you don't end up with what you really want. Hot Rodding is not about redesigning a lot of stuff to make it worse , well sometimes it is
All 6 cylinder e36 radiators are the same except for the radiator from the M coupe which is 1/4" thicker. That's the one I am using, but i think the "regular" one would do the job just fine. For the RX-7 folks, the overall size of that radiator is larger than what is typically used in those conversions and larger than the stock F-body radiator.
I understand about the steering shaft, but that is all easier said than done and sometimes you don't end up with what you really want. Hot Rodding is not about redesigning a lot of stuff to make it worse , well sometimes it is
Good info, thanks! The steering shaft will be interesting. I agree, dont redesign stuff and end up with a worse result. Unless you ask the "purists"... then we are the black sheep... ending up with a ruined car! There will be more labor involved in making the steering shaft perfect than the rest of the swap. Most everything else is pretty straight forward.
I like that pic. Certainly re-routing the steering shaft makes a "normal" set of headers a viable option.
I've got some questions:
1.) What (and whose) parts were used in relocating the steering column?
2.) Is there still a provision for the steering column to collapse in a collision? (Although with an extra joint I'm not sure it's necessary).
3.) How much did you spend on the steering column stuff (not counting the fab'd stuff).
4.) Whose block-huggers are those and what size tubes?
5.) I assume that the car in the pic is an E36 chassis, is that correct (I hate making assumptions).
This is still a very cool swap that I'd like to pursue soon. GM doesn't have anything rear drive and reasonably light that I'd like to put a V8 in. Heck, v8 4th gen f-body's weigh significantly more than most of the converted BMW's do. And adding "light" is better than adding power (saves on gas too). Making it do-able without $3k headers and $700 engine mounts would be nice (engine mounts shouldn't cost $700).
'JustDreamin'
1. I moved the steering column towards the driver exactly 1 inch just to get a better angle on the joints....those joints like to operate at no more than 45 degrees, you may be able to get away without doing that. your mileage may vary.
2. There is no provision like the factory shaft to collapse, however you can setup one of the straights to be a slip joint like vorshlag sells. I did not feel it was necessary, with a 3 jointed shaft they will collapse on themselves before impacting the firewall. you know the deal, "off road use only"
3. Spent about $250 for the joints and the support bearing
4. Sanderson headers, model CC1-LS1. I have a set of block hugger hookers, passenger side fits fine but I dont think the driver side is going to work, bulges out significantly more than the sanderson.
5. E36 M3, 95. I would recommend keeping it obd1, if you have strict emissions laws like the Nazi State of NJ
Have you seen the Solstice GXP coupe with the LS1? THATS a car GM should build!
I've got an e36 'Vert, and once I build my forged engine for the turbo RX7, I'll have a spare LSx sitting around. Add tranny + free time = LSx BMW.
__________________ 1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged 347" LS1/T56 - Wiseco pistons, Callies Rods, Stage III heads, TC76 Turbo, Alkycontrol, Lingenfelter 2 Step, Custom C4 Dana36 rear, 2950 lbs.
Thanks to Bob and Drew @ EPP, Ryan @ Lingenfelter, BeasTT Performance and JPH!
2006 Crew: Team Spiderman/Hulk Top Fuel Motorcycle
10 Time World Champions, World Record Holders for 1/4 E/T: 5.746 Seconds
I've wondered if a flex shaft could be used as the steering shaft, so that it could be routed around stuff like headers, and clamped to the chasis. They make some that are pretty stout, that I've seen on McMaster-Carr.... not that I'm real excited to try it, since steering is kinda important.
I've wondered if a flex shaft could be used as the steering shaft, so that it could be routed around stuff like headers, and clamped to the chasis. They make some that are pretty stout, that I've seen on McMaster-Carr.... not that I'm real excited to try it, since steering is kinda important.
I've wondered if a flex shaft could be used as the steering shaft, so that it could be routed around stuff like headers, and clamped to the chasis. They make some that are pretty stout, that I've seen on McMaster-Carr.... not that I'm real excited to try it, since steering is kinda important
like an early pinto? HAHAHA Even ford was smart enough to change.
I had to use three u-joints and a support bearing in my Monza to clear the manifold. It works well and will easily collapse befor coming through the firewall. No worries here. Nice project and I'd like to see more pics of the headers.
Bill
__________________ 1978 Monza 2+2, stock 305ci
2006 GTO Torrid Red, Red hot, 18's,
6m...stock as a rock
I have spent more money than time this last week...
PCM is on the way back from being programmed, bought an F-body shifter, oil pan gasket, dipstick tube, etc showed up today. Ordered steering shaft components, picked up an aluminum driveline, etc.
Progress on the car...
The abs module is relocated to the front side of the shock tower, brake lines are bent. I decided to go with a mustang hydro-boost setup, it is installed. I also moved the entire steering column up (toward the driver) 1.5" to help the custom steering shaft I will be building clear the header.
I was able to find the "repair" fittings for the fuel lines at the local NAPA.... they will plug right into the 99 corvette fuel filter and the existing rubber lines from the tank.
where and how exactly you are moving steering column?
I pulled mine an inch towards me....like if you were sitting in your car holding your wheel in your hands, pull it towards you an inch. its a bit more involved than it sounds....not sure how the op did it but I had to make a donut spacer to take up the slack / gap from the firewall, then I had to make a couple new mounting brackets up top. not exactly something you want to "rig" up. you'll also need to modify or make a new gas pedal, as that is mounted to the column and now will move toward you an inch as well. it actually ended up pretty nice, since I dont have a tilt column, moving the column forward angled it up a bit as well....perfect for me. Wish these came with tilt columns
Tilt only. My car is a VERY early 95 M, one of the first in the US it turns out, so it has some strange stuff on it. I had no idea but I picked up some parts from a local guy and he was falling all over my car pointing out the rarities. Apparently they offered tilt in 92-94 e36s and on some 95 M's. It made finding a replacement knee panel difficult because they are different than the ones for non-tilt cars.
In between working on the M, I got to do a clutch job in my brothers 06 STI. Unfortunately I was set back some time....
Things that I have completed....
Steering shaft is done, moved steering column up toward driver
Engine/ alt/ starter/ and BMW body harness are mated together
Exhaust y-pipe is welded together
Clutch hydraulics & remote bleeder are hooked up
Cooling fan is mounted to radiator
Radiator hoses are installed
Fuel filter/ fuel lines installed
Fuel system pressure tested
Sourced rear diff flange from Jags that run (JTR)
Starter cranks when I hit the key.....
Things left to do....
Plug low oil level sender hole in the pan
Flare a few brake lines to complete ABS relocation
Extend abs module wiring harness
Fill all fluids
Have drive line cut
Swap the 4-bolt rear diff flange
Finish exhaust from y-pipe to the rear of car
Probably more unexpected fun... but its close!
I turned the key and the beast roared to life! It sounds nasty... my mind doesn't comprehend the noise coming from my car.
There are a few small things to finish up, but the car will be ready to drive in the next 1-2 weeks! Hopefully the snow will be melted off so I can get the car out of the garage.
The final stretch of the project include wiring the electric fan, bleeding the brakes & hydro-boost, changing the shifter cup on the GTO trans to an F-body shifter cup (hopefully I can do it with trans in the car), welding up some exhaust hangers, extending the abs module wiring harness, and some general "tidy up" work.
hmm, gto is that much different than a camaro driveshaft... good to know.
The GTO drive shaft is similar to BMW drive shaft... has the same rubber joints and a carrier bearing in the center. I used one from a Lincoln, 3" aluminum... had to shorten it about 6-8"
, well sometimes it is 
