Could be a possible transmission problem. With 4.11s and a 3.06 first gear you should definately be spinning tires in a 2800-2900lb car. Maybe your converter is slipping? The transmission has enough fluid right? It's not leaking anywhere is it?
actually I know for a fact that my car is extremely very RICH... very very rich to the extent that I can see my gas level going down... but don't know why that is happening, and I have alot of backfires too just like you described about the ECT...
I have enough Fluid in my 4L60e, but the gearbox is still slipping a bit... could extra fluid be causing slippage.. I put 11 quarts in an empty gearbox with a cooler... but the only gear thats slipping is 4th its actually never going to 4th, but 1st and 2nd are rock solid... with good shifts...
not yet, im going to replace it soon, the wiring was done based on information I found on the internet, I also verified that information from other sources on the internet, plus the job wasn't that hard because all the wires were intact when i got it except a few that were cut due to the accident and I solderd them back to the same colors...
DUDE pull your head out of your ass and have someone with a decent scanner, Snap-On or whatever help you fix it. You've already spent lots of time converting it and now you are guessing and using f'ing internet replies to fix it? WTF?
Seriously PULL YOUR HEAD OUT OF YOUR ASS AND THINK ABOUT THIS FOR !) MINUTES BEFORE YOU DO ANOTHER THING!
Now that I have your attention think about this.
1) Approach the situation like you've never seen the car before.
2) Buy a cheap leakdown tester from Summit and check the engine basics. leakdown, compression, oil pressure. BARE BONES BASICS.
3) Scan Tool check. Record all codes. Start with most important first. Not Evap or Cat effieciency codes but O2, MAF, MAP, Misfire....Basic drivability stuff gets repaired first.
4) One Step At A Time. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself have a friend help. NOT ON THE INTERNET. ANY competent shop will have a basic scanner that can help you sort this out.
5) TELL ME TO GO F#CK MYSELF and go in the corner and cry.
Take your time and keep you wits about you. Be patient and persistent. It will all work out.
DUDE pull your head out of your ass and have someone with a decent scanner, Snap-On or whatever help you fix it. You've already spent lots of time converting it and now you are guessing and using f'ing internet replies to fix it? WTF?
Seriously PULL YOUR HEAD OUT OF YOUR ASS AND THINK ABOUT THIS FOR !) MINUTES BEFORE YOU DO ANOTHER THING!
Now that I have your attention think about this.
1) Approach the situation like you've never seen the car before.
2) Buy a cheap leakdown tester from Summit and check the engine basics. leakdown, compression, oil pressure. BARE BONES BASICS.
3) Scan Tool check. Record all codes. Start with most important first. Not Evap or Cat effieciency codes but O2, MAF, MAP, Misfire....Basic drivability stuff gets repaired first.
4) One Step At A Time. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself have a friend help. NOT ON THE INTERNET. ANY competent shop will have a basic scanner that can help you sort this out.
5) TELL ME TO GO F#CK MYSELF and go in the corner and cry.
Take your time and keep you wits about you. Be patient and persistent. It will all work out.
i second that!!!!
there is no point in asking for help if your not going to help yourself and follow through with the above. i spent over an hour on the phone recently with one of my meatball friends that just wouldnt listen. his starter wasnt getting power so we traced the whole circuit. we had power everywhere but he refused to check the switch wire at the solenoid. his theory was that it must be getting power there because when you jump it out the starter it works............................................. .....................there was a break in the wire about 2" before it
scan tool is your friend.....USE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!
dude your cars fuel tables are run off the coolant temp sensor...you need to have that working...even if you arent using it for the fans your computer reads it and sets the fuel trims accordingly...if it is not working you are looking at a very very rich car....also check the map sensor and even the PCM
__________________ 2002 WS6 M6, Red
Exterior: Black stock rims w/polished lip, Black Blackbird stripes, black front bird decal and trans am inlay/overlays, 30% tint
219 228 .525 .525 112LSA, LS6 springs, Thunder racing 7.4 pushrods, Mac midlength headers and ORY, TSP rumbler catback, LS1 Motorsports lid, Holley filter, Ws6 store shortstick on pro 5.0, Moser 12 bolt w/33 spline axles, 4.11, P/P TB, HP tuned, LS7 Clutch, LS2 Flywheel, Rotoworks slotted rotors, SFC
lool, thanks for the TAKE YOUR HEAD OUT OF YOUR ASS... comments... guys I didn't put the OBD2 scan port pigtail YET... so I can't scan... and Im working on it now, but for example, since your saying stop getting internet help its not beneficial... see instead of me just going for a OBD2 pigtail from abroad, beacuse in my country not even 1 single car came with an LS1 engine... now i actually know that the ECT should be replaced also... so yes I will scan my car, no I never said I won't or I only rely on internet answers... but I do get alot of information from it... like the ECT thing, never knew it played around with the Fuel Maps all that much, especially on WOT, I thought it cuts out like 02 sensors.. only working on Closed Loop...
Anyhow, Im in the process of ordering a PCV system, and the same guy is going out of his way to buy me an ECT sensor which is also unavailible in my country... and now Im also looking for a OBD2 connector from another car... which has the same connector as the 98 LS1 any suggestions?! Camaro LT1 for example?!
Thanks, and keep it down with the take your head out of your ass it already is, but if you spent sometime reading my posts u'll know that Im actually working on scanning it when I get a damn connector but for the mean while it never harms to ask, I already got alot of good information...
You can use any OBDII plug, just wire to your spec. Not sure where you are, but in the states, most cars after 97 have them. Dont forget to wire the MIL while the soldering iron is hot.
Oh, I guess I know what you mean.. that some wires have such low and sensitive voltage that they need to be Soldered? or what? anyhow, I try to soldere all wires I find cut...
I took in someones advice and I unplugged the MAF sensor to check if the car changes in idle or on Neutral where I pressed some gas to check for stutering since the MAF is unplugged but nothing changed... so I guess that seems not to be working... but I need to connect the OBD2 and scan it to find a true answer, anyhow its on the way, and hopefully soon I can scan the bitch
No if you unplug the MAF it should run the same if its good. it just runs in speed density. If that MAF were bad it would run like crap with it plugged in. Are you sur eyour MAP sensor is working properly?
go in the corner and cry 
