I have no idea about the Z31 firewall. It depends a lot on where you position the engine. I've seen some 240 swaps where the engine was low enough and far enough forward that no hammering was needed. On the other hand, some people have had to cut their firewalls. You can't tell until the engine and trans are in there. Once you test fit it, hammer the tunnel appropriately or cut it out and make a new trans tunnel/firewall if you have the time/welder. It's not that big of a deal.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91ZLS6
Did you do those rod bolts the "1 bolt at a time" method?
Please tell me you didnt! :O
About these rod bolts... The ARP instructions said to install the bolts, torque to 45 ft-lbs., loosen, torque to 45 ft-lbs., loosen, final torque to 45 ft-lbs. I also looked up the instructions for Katech bolts. It was exactly the same as ARP. Remove the stock bolts, and torque the new bolts three times. The only difference was the torque spec. There are several writeups on here saying to do the same thing.
I've also read some people saying that installing aftermarket rod bolts can change rod bearing clearance by 0.002" and that you shouldn't do it? WTF? So what are you supposed to do? Wait until your stock ones snap?
On the writeups, people are saying specifically to do it one at a time so the rod cap doesn't shift during installation.
So WTF dude. I'm not saying you're wrong. If you give me a valid explanation or documentation saying to do it differently, I'll take apart the motor and redo it. But it's kind of gay to come on here and suggest I fucked this up without giving any explanation.
Yep, that is what i heard too. Take one side out at a time, and torque it down 3 times. Then after the final torque down, take out the other rod bolt and do the same thing. The theory was that since you are never taking all the tension off the rod bearings, they don't have to be resized or replaced because they never leave that natural "groove" they have developed over time. Otherwise if you were going to take them both out at the same time, they could unseat and and not sit correctly... which equals a spun bearing. I did read a couple places that the Katech bolts were a direct drop in replacement, whereas the ARP's needed rebalancing or something. I'm really not sure though, and if the company didn't say anything about it i would think you are good to go.
Yep, that is what i heard too. Take one side out at a time, and torque it down 3 times. Then after the final torque down, take out the other rod bolt and do the same thing. The theory was that since you are never taking all the tension off the rod bearings, they don't have to be resized or replaced because they never leave that natural "groove" they have developed over time.
That's how I did mine as well - and I rather STRONGLY suspect that if it was really something to be concerned about, ARP would include a note to that effect with the rod bolts, or at least have a reference to it in their online directions. And since I didn't see either one, I'm not going to lose any sleep over this - especially since mine is a new engine & hasn't even developed any kind of "wear patterns" yet...
FWIW, I made a point to go onto ARP's site when I swapped my rod bolts out, & didn't see any kind of caution like that. (That's not to say that I couldn't have missed it, but I'm pretty confident that we'll be OK.)
Thanks for the feedback guys. I don't know what other way you would install the bolts. Maybe torquing two at a time in steps would be recommended, but I've never seen this specified in the FSM or in rod bolt installs.
I'm pissed about these ARP bolts though. ARP says that they're supposed to be resized. Some people are saying ARP only says that to cover their ass and that they don't need to be resized. Nobody has a straight answer whether these can be used with stock rods with no modification. So screw it. I ordered Katech bolts. Katech explicitly says no modifications are necesary. They also have a higher tensile strength than ARP. I'll change to the Katech ones while the engine is still on the stand. The clutch and flywheel still haven't gotten here, so it's not like my engine is going in the car in the next couple of days anyway.
I'll post some pics tonight... lots of progress in the last week.
Car is close to being together... just waiting for some more suspension parts to come in.
I got the new Katech rod bolts and will put them in tomorrow. Do I need to install a new oil pan gasket when I put the oil pan back on? The engine hasn't been run, so I don't think it would be a problem, but maybe the aluminum part of the gasket has gotten deformed and won't seal properly the second time?
I actually have a new gasket that I got as a spare, put I don't want to deal with drilling out the rivets on the oil pan to remove the old gasket if I don't have to.
So I was installing the NISMO Power brace on the car, and while tightening one of the bolts, the anchor (nut thing) inside the frame rail that the bolt goes into snapped off. This was truly an FML moment. I couldn't get the bolt out or in, couldn't remove the power brace, and couldn't reach the bolt to cut it off.
So I cut a hole in the frame rail, welded the nut back on, and patched the hole in the frame rail. Sweet.
Valvetrain parts.
Comp Cams 7-degree valve lock vs. 10-degree valve lock. Big difference.
Crane Cams valve compressor.
Stock stuff looks relatively clean and not broken. Yeah, I forgot to take pic of new stuff installed.
Spark plugs all look normal. Yay.
UPS found wheel.
Nasty coilovers.
Subframe bushing sleeves out. Big hammer was useful.
I love your build man! All of the pictures are a great help!
I'm sure I'll be using your build as a reference in the future... I pick up my '04 GTO LS1/T56 this Saturday for my S13 coupe!!!
Hey what's up guys, my name is Eulises. I'm been helping Miro w/ the build. I'm the one w/ the other stripped chassis you may have seen in the other pics. Figured better late than never to chime in. Thanks to everyone for all the kind words. Miro is definately motivated. As for wheels, we have a set of WHITE Work XD-9's staggered coming from Japan. Hopefully some more parts will be in this week to give you guys more updates. Enjoy!
Just my opinion but I think it would look better with a smaller, well a lot smaller wing. I this one is only good for pulling up a barstool and eating food at the track. haha. Other than that, I think I'm getting used to the pink, NOICE!!!
__________________ 82 Chevy Silverado 4x4 long bed stepside 383 stroker TH400.
71 Pontiac LeMans 350-TH350 needs brakes..and other stuff..
Just my opinion but I think it would look better with a smaller, well a lot smaller wing. I this one is only good for pulling up a barstool and eating food at the track. haha. Other than that, I think I'm getting used to the pink, NOICE!!!
