Yes they do, with the revised valve angle LSx stuff works much better than std. 23* stuff. If you buy 18* or 15* heads for an SBC you have to think about a different intake to match and possibly headers, notching pistons, etc.
I'm sure there are people out there like me that have fully built LTx motors that could simply buy a block and swap over rather than buying a block and new rotating assembly. I'm sure that if you are running an aftermarket EFI/carb'd motor it makes things 10x easier too because you don't have to worry about any wiring cause you don't have to run any LSx specific sensors/computer.
Do Gen III heads/intake really flow that much better than a nice set of alum. heads for an original SBC? If your going to lay down the coin to buy a new block, wouldn't you just keep going and buy a nice set of ported heads for a Gen I?
Theres way more to making power than airflow when dealing with heads. Just the valve angle alone would be worth switching.
Just cant see how this is worth the time it took to type the article on it...Going to be alot of odd ball parts there such as:
custom pistons for 15* vave angle and arrangement,
decks on a gen 1 are .250 shorter than LS "therefor the headers will probly hit something"
God knows what comp will want for a cam for this thing $$$, I asume the cam bore is gen1 and will have to be a major lobe arrangement feat.
That is just at first glance, who knows what else will be oddball for these things. So unless they price the block for around the same as a 6.0 iron block IT's USELESS. The only gain i can see is the oiling system and the "WOW" factor....There time would have been much better spent working on a big bore LS aluminum block that would do 2000+HP safely... This is just my OP....
__________________ OLD COMBO : LQ9 6.0 cam, headers, n2o, carb setup...6.27@109, 1.38 60' on 275 DRs
NEW COMBO :Who knows??? I DONT!!!
Yes they do, with the revised valve angle LSx stuff works much better than std. 23* stuff. If you buy 18* or 15* heads for an SBC you have to think about a different intake to match and possibly headers, notching pistons, etc.
I'm sure there are people out there like me that have fully built LTx motors that could simply buy a block and swap over rather than buying a block and new rotating assembly. I'm sure that if you are running an aftermarket EFI/carb'd motor it makes things 10x easier too because you don't have to worry about any wiring cause you don't have to run any LSx specific sensors/computer.
idk,
i would rather spend on a lsx block and the new 6 bolt heads, instead of trying to source custom parts for that block.
if i needed a sbc , dart little m with little chief heads, or similiar with jesel valvetrain and dart, edelbrock victor,or brodix intake with dominator.
Anything that provides another option for hot rodding is great. Most LS engine parts are a lot lot more expensive than the Gen I engine parts for some reason. More readily available crank options a lot cheaper price, 3.750 stroke,3.875, 4.00. I havnt read about it but I hope the deck is taller and the supporting parts arent priced like the LS parts cost.
Just cant see how this is worth the time it took to type the article on it...Going to be alot of odd ball parts there such as:
custom pistons for 15* vave angle and arrangement,
decks on a gen 1 are .250 shorter than LS "therefor the headers will probly hit something"
God knows what comp will want for a cam for this thing $$$, I asume the cam bore is gen1 and will have to be a major lobe arrangement feat.
That is just at first glance, who knows what else will be oddball for these things. So unless they price the block for around the same as a 6.0 iron block IT's USELESS. The only gain i can see is the oiling system and the "WOW" factor....There time would have been much better spent working on a big bore LS aluminum block that would do 2000+HP safely... This is just my OP....
You use off the shelf ls pistons on trditional rods, the deck height is stock ls not many custom parts at all. all the swap headers should still fit same deck height. This is a good option.
I see no merret to it really we are using 13 degree heads on our SBC's. They flow just as well as the 12 degree all pros when they are all out cnc ported.
What about what's behind it? There are TONs of options going w/ a GenI block as far as transmissions-clutch set-ups-bellhousings. Plus there are oil pans galore-that are CHEAP.
The acticle (don't always believe what I read) said the motor -GENI w/LS heads made 15 MORE hospower than the warhawk w/ same cubes.
IF the World Products reworked GENI is about the same money as a LSX block-It makes sense.
idk,
i would rather spend on a lsx block and the new 6 bolt heads, instead of trying to source custom parts for that block.
if i needed a sbc , dart little m with little chief heads, or similiar with jesel valvetrain and dart, edelbrock victor,or brodix intake with dominator.
Custom parts for this block? It's an SBC based block so I'm not sure what custom parts you mean. You may need some valve notching depending on the pistons you are running and how tight things are, but I hear that's an issue with a LSx anyway already. I don't know but since it accepts LSx heads it might already be setup for 6 bolt heads. One thing I would wonder about though is the camshaft selection.
I would think a nice set of LSx heads used on this block would be just as good as Cheif heads and will be cheaper.
MOTOWN LS CAST IRON ENGINE BLOCK
Technical Data:
Casting ID Number: WOR-042A
Material: High density cast iron
Cam Bearings: Standard SB Chevy
Cam Location: Standard SB Chevy
Maximum Bore: 4.200”
Cylinder Wall Thickness: .250” at
4.200” bore
Water Jackets: Expanded for better cooling
Lubrication: Priority main oiling system
Oil System Features: Integral boss for
front feed, boss for rear scavenge, rear
main cap can accept wet sump pump
Filter: Integral mount for spin-on filter
Oil Pan Rails: Solid (stock width)
clearanced for 4.000" stroke
Main Cap Material: Street and
Sportsman blocks caps are made from
nodular iron, Race blocks are made
from 1045 billet steel (unlike
competitors’ softer 1020)
Main Caps: Street block caps 1 thru 5
have 4 bolts, Sportsman and Race
blocks have splayed 4-bolt caps (2, 3,
4) and straight 4-bolt caps (1, 5)
Main Cap Hardware: 1/2" ARP and ring
dowels used to locate main caps firmly
into position (not antiquated standard
OEM outside registers)
Rear Main Seal: Two piece SB Chevy
Fuel Pump: Stock location SB Chevy
Motor Mounts: Dual (frnt & side) SBC/ LS
Cylinder Head Bolt Holes: Blind
tapped to prevent water leaks
Lifters Bosses: Clearanced for vertical
bar lifters (can use std. height LS lifters)
Clutch Linkage: Standard mounts
Starter Mount: Stock location
Weight: Approximately 190lbs.
Part # Series Type Deck Bore Mains Lifters Main Caps Max Stroke
084080 Sportsman Bare 9.240" 4.115" 400 .8437" Nodular Splayed 4.000”
084180 Race Bare 9.240" 4.115" 400 .8437" Billet Splayed 4.000”
Accessories:
832665-2 Oil restrictors for Motown SBC cast iron block
832531 Freeze & pipe plug kit for cast iron Motown SBC
832522 Dowel pin kit for Motown SBC engine block
832576 ARP head bolt kit for Motown LS cast iron block
832912 Stainless steel timing cover bolt kit (hex head)
832913 Stainless steel oil pan bolt kit (hex head)
061079 Cooling adapters for LS heads (pair required)
Available options:
Cylinder boring
Lifter bushings
50mm cam bearings
O-ring head decks
Contact your World sales representative for details.
Indexed
lifter bores
1/2" ARP and ring dowels used
to locate main caps firmly into
position (not antiquated
standard OEM outside registers)
Siamese bores
1045 billet steel main caps
utilized on Race blocks (unlike
competitors’ softer 1020)
100% compatible with
OEM parts
Expanded water
jackets for maximum
cooling capacity: 152
fl.oz. per side
Accepts stock
mechanical
fuel pump
Priority main oiling
system for optimum
reliability
Uses stock
SBC cam
bearings
Blind tapped head
bolt holes
Precision CNC-machined
in two positions to cut
down on stacked
tolerances
Integral boss for front
feed oiling system
Solid oil pan rails with
stock spacing and
clearance for 4.000"
crank (Sportsman and
Race block)
Made of high
ALL density Cast Iron
NEW Oil restrictors
Manufactured
to QS-9000
standards
THE MOTOWN LS IS A UNIQUE ONE-OF-A-KIND
BLOCK AVAILABLE ONLY FROM WORLD PRODUCTS!
The unique Motown LS block lets you utilize a full compliment of standard
small block Chevy components with the decided advantage of being able to
employ high flowing LS-type cylinder heads. In addition to the internal
components, the Motown LS allows use of expensive already-purchased items
like pulley kits and external accessories. The block also boasts a coolant
capacity in excess of 150 fluid ounces to provide superior cooling.
Motown LS blocks are offered both bare and fully race-prepped for your
convenience.
Note: The Motown block employs a
standard SBC water flow path. When
using LS-style heads on the Motown you
must use an adapter on the heads to
facilitate a return flow to the radiator.
The World Products Cooling Adapter
(p/n 061079) also accommodates
standard SBC accessory brackets
I can see it for the car that has a small block in it already. You don't have to mess with motor mount adapters or trying to figure out how to get the trans to bolt on without spacers, special flexplates or converters.
Would I get it? If it were priced right. A pullout LS would be alot cheaper than this block will most likely go for.
I can see it for the car that has a small block in it already. You don't have to mess with motor mount adapters or trying to figure out how to get the trans to bolt on without spacers, special flexplates or converters.
Would I get it? If it were priced right. A pullout LS would be alot cheaper than this block will most likely go for.
As someone with a 3rdgen. As someone who has done an LS1 swap. As somone who has parted out a couple LS1 cars
This is such a stupid waste of money and a dumb idea.
Before I had an LS1 I had a 400SBC in my 3rdgen. Guess what it had ported trickflow heads with 16*/18* valves. Guess what else. They required ZERO special parts. No special intake, no special anything. And they are for sale actually right now for $995 if someone wants them.
So right there I imagine this block is way more then $995 so the idea you need it so you can have heads with better valve angles is a joke.
Second, The TOTAL cost for my ls1 swap in my 3rdgen as of today stands at $2100. That got me the LS1/T56 and PCM, conversion cross member, conversion motor mounts, conversion headers racetronix(walboro) 255lph pump, aluminum driveshaft, HP tuners, conversion throttle cable, and 2-ton engine crane It's in my car 100% done and drivable.
Of that $2100, $1000 was for hawks 3rdgen headers, $450 was HPtuners, $160 was the engine hoist and $165 was the pump I didn't need if I used the stock one. So really the ls1/T56 swap with manifolds cost me $325.
Well if I buy this new block I STILL have to use those $1000 hawks headers and I am sure the block costs way more then $325.
Again what's the point? TOTAL waste of money.
If I want more cubes I can go buy a 6.0LSx bottom end locally for $700, from another 3rdgenner running 10 flat with it so who give a Fk about "2000hp". Then sell my ls1 bottom end for some to offset that cost.
So again this new block does nothing that allows one to go faster.
I'm all for new things, but this block is a joke to a problem that doesn't exist.
Right. This whole idea of a "budget part" is a joke.
It would be kinda silly to pay the $ for a custom block to keep an accessory drive or avoid swap mounts, or for a "cheaper stroker crank".
I've never built a 2000 hp engine, I won't even comment on that idea.
I assume that would be the targeted group.
However, I am confident this block has NOTHING to do with budget.
__________________ 84 C4 -LS1/T56 in progress(delete:radio-A/C-heater-anything that doesn't make it faster)street legal light weight road racer 1973 Buick Century-delayed by new project, but an L92 waits patiently for it on a stand 2002 Hardtop Z28-MMM M6 Strano-Sway Bars-Springs-Koni S/As-C5 Brakes-Hooker LTs,ORY,CB 2007 2500HD "Classic"-6.0 5-speed ECSB 2wd-trim delete-Bilsteins-Federico Sway Bars-3.42s-Cragar Soft-8s w 285/70/17 BFGs
apparently some of you just don't get it.
Where does it say budget, anywhere? This is a RACE BLOCK. It is clearanced for a 4" stroke and has enough meat for a 4.250 bore.
The best part about it is that you can use a far superior standard sbc oiling system.
I can't run a dry sump or external oil pump in the class I run, so I am limited to factory style LS... garbage oil pump that comes apart with anything over 7800rpm.
I like it and if it is the same price as an LSX, I will buy one over an LSX.
__________________ Help out your carb ls brothers and vote YES..
This thing's a replacement bolt-in for SBC cars. It's simple - with my LQ4/4L80e, I have to fab motor mount plates, relocate the trans mount, have a custom driveshaft made, mess with the wiring/PCM, and generally hack/weld/change the factory stuff. For those who don't want to mess with all that, this offers a great alternative.
Aaron - not many people get complete pull-outs for $325. There's always going to be someone who scores a great buy for next to nothing, but the vast majority of us pay well in excess of $1000 for an LS-series setup.
That being said - I would rather (and did) go all-LSx. Making it work is half the fun.
If this block allowed me to keep my lt1 accessories, canton oil pan, and if I got a 90 degree elbow for the victor jr intake, i probably would look at it just because my motor would still look like a lt1 and would kick some ass with it. Other than that, instead of buying a block, I would go for an lt1 with the sb2 setup on it probably cheaper than buying this block and everything to go with it for the ls heads and intake, and make some sick power.
__________________ 1993 Z28 A4 Burgundy/Black hardtop, A few boltons
Quote:
Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles
Why are you anticipating high heat and using chrome rings? I haven't seen 'em used in anything other than circlejerker engine builds and understand they'll cause accelerated cylinder wall wear.
apparently some of you just don't get it.
Where does it say budget, anywhere? This is a RACE BLOCK. It is clearanced for a 4" stroke and has enough meat for a 4.250 bore.
The best part about it is that you can use a far superior standard sbc oiling system.
I can't run a dry sump or external oil pump in the class I run, so I am limited to factory style LS... garbage oil pump that comes apart with anything over 7800rpm.
I like it and if it is the same price as an LSX, I will buy one over an LSX.
I agree with you . I want the block, I have a Lunati crank, billet rods and other high dollar gen 1 lower end parts. I think its a great idea. Eveyone for some reason think that a block that can handle 2000hp is a budget block. My personal opinion is that this block is WAY better choice for a NA motor over the LSX. Its 90 lbs lighter if I remeber right. I posted this on turbomustangs and got really beat up by uneducated fantasy engine builders
I guess you're referring to me as one of the fantasy engine builders... As a few other people said, to each their own. Obviously someone already spent the money designing this (better their money then mine). Anyways, my main point is that there are so many old schoolers that think the ls style stuff is incapable of holding up, when in reality it has proven itself time and time again especially in forced induction worlds. To add to this, we have a ton of great sponsers on here who are ever evolving the line to make up for any/all weak points.
Lets agree to disagree guys, its not like they're threatening the ls world at all...
__________________
98 Camaro SS MS4 cam only, TH400 w/ transbrake, Midwest Chassis Fabricated 9 inch