99 PCM needs the 2 wire 99 engine coolant sensor. 99-02 PCM & harness are the same, as you have noted.
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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I have no desire to use it, and the engine didn't come with anything to support it other than the throttle body.
Dropped the subframe out today as well as stitch welded up the other side of the car. Probably going to start painting the engine bay tomorrow. Nothing special, just a satin black that will be easy to touch up later (since you always end up needing it). Ran into my first problem with the Boss Frog setup. The clutch master cylinder adapter isn't large enough to allow the cylinder to sit inside the plate. I could just make the hole larger, but i don't have anything that would do a nice, clean job of it. Going to call them tomorrow and see if it was just a random mistake or if i need to do some grinding.
Man do i love this build! Every time i work on it, i have a blast and don't want to stop.
There is not really much to add right now. I'm mainly just collecting parts to get everything going. The next big thing i need is a tranny. Still don't have quite enough saved up for it. Holiday season put a damper on the funds. Should be back up soon though!
Oh, the one thing i am trying is using spray on truck bedliner and painting black over that in the engine bay. In the past the paint alone has had a tendency to chip off after a couple bumps. I always like something that is easy to touch up.
I did pick up a new F-Body oil pan, windage tray, pickup tube, dipstick, and tube from a friend this weekend. The lip on the oil pickup is slightly dented in. I wonder if it would cause any problems?
The BF kit probably uses the same clutch master cylinder as the v8roadsters kit. The v8roadsters kit however includes instructions on opening up the hole a bit. I uses some die grinder attachments on my cordless drill to open it up a bit. Only took about 5 minutes with the grinder.
The V8Roadsters kit uses a 7/8" master cylinder, I do believe, while the Boss Frog kit uses a 3/4" that fits directly in the factory hole. I wonder what the difference in pedal pressure and engagement range would be. I would love to be able to drive my car for a while and then turn around and drive a V8Roadsters setup car.
The V8Roadsters kit uses a 7/8" master cylinder, I do believe, while the Boss Frog kit uses a 3/4" that fits directly in the factory hole. I wonder what the difference in pedal pressure and engagement range would be. I would love to be able to drive my car for a while and then turn around and drive a V8Roadsters setup car.
A 3/4" adjustable master cylinder matches a stock GM master & is the correct master cylinder for the swap. I personally, would not be comfortable using a 7/8" master cylinder. IMO, it may cause a leaking slave cylinder in time. When guys document leaking or failing slaves, it's usually from double clutching or too much oil displacement that fatigues seals, all the while never realizing that it is the master or the double clutching that has caused the issue.
The key to a properly set-up hydraulic clutch is equal bore size & stroke adjustability.
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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A 3/4" adjustable master cylinder matches a stock GM master & is the correct master cylinder for the swap. I personally, would not be comfortable using a 7/8" master cylinder. IMO, it may cause a leaking slave cylinder in time. When guys document leaking or failing slaves, it's usually from double clutching or too much oil displacement that fatigues seals, all the while never realizing that it is the master or the double clutching that has caused the issue.
The key to a properly set-up hydraulic clutch is equal bore size & stroke adjustability.
I dont know the ls1 rx7 guys almost all use the 7/8" and no one that I know of has had an issue, including myself
__________________ 1989 Mazda Rx7 GTU
Bolt On Ls1/T56 Powered
Status: Running... Most of The Time
11.68 @ 120 1.73 60' 3rd time out
Stock Ls1 ported TB W/ Full exhaust
Slowhawk Tuned
I dont know the ls1 rx7 guys almost all use the 7/8" and no one that I know of has had an issue, including myself
Glad to hear it. It's still not something I would do.
BTW, not related to you, but mention of an rx7 swap reminded me of a few comments made to me that make me chuckle. Although, they are slightly different, many rx7's look like hard top Miata's & some share the same logo.
rx7 guy: Miata's are Gay, why didn't you just do an rx7 swap?
me: huh?
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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I didn't get a lot done this weekend. All I really did was take some measurements and do some planning; mainly about what radiator i am going to use. Double pass radiators appeal to me mainly because of the inlet/outlet locations both being located on the passenger side. Then i was reading about the increased pressure they cause (roughly 16 times?), and wondering about wear on the water pump. Some people were saying more pressure would cause more water molecules to come in contact with the fins which would remove more heat from the coolant too. All i know is if i don't go with a double pass setup, i am not looking forward to routing the coolant line from the drivers side to the passenger.
Either way i did cut out the radiator support after taking these photos. I want to push the radiator as far forward as possible, and still leave room for some future plans.
I'm really liking the Simpson design hood. I think between that and some turn signal vents, it would be a decent start. Really, i'm going to wait and see how it does.
I'm more worried about how the radiator will cool with an intercooler in front of it... Then again that is a ways down the road.
Tomorrow i am going to be paying for my SECOND engine harness thanks to THIS GUY. (Payed him over 3 weeks ago. Now his phone is suddenly disconnected, and no response on here despite seeing him online everyday.)
dark, don't put up w/ that sh!t. Go to the Parts classified section; at the bottom is a negative trader feedback section where you can file a dispute. Also, send a PM to a moderator in that "Negative Trader Feedback" area. Mod list is always to the right of the link. Also, hopefully you used Paypal or a Credit card. Paypal will recover your money if you used them & you already know about a credit card payment recovery, I'm sure. Good-luck.
BTW, am glad you posted. I was suffering from LSX Miata build withdrawl.
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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I wanted to wait for the tranny to be here before dropping the engine in, but that might be another month or so away at this point. This is of course just a temporary thing. Engine should come back out by next weekend or so to make some necessary changes.
I already have an F-body oil pan that i know will fit. I was curious to see if the "batwing" Corvette pan fit though. It barely touches the subframe on the passenger side. The oil drain is on the front though, right at the cross section of the subframe. Would have to cut a hole if i ever wanted to use it.
Also the alternator is directly in the way of the drivers side headlight motor. I figure it would be easiest to just mount it in the F-body location, but farther back so i don't have to use a different alternator or accessories. Oh, and in case you didn't notice, good luck ever trying to run this setup with power steering. Now having seen the Corvette accessories in here first hand, i have to say i think the F-body setup is the way to go.
Even though it isn't there to stay, it sure makes me happy to finally see the engine in it's new home!
__________________ Where all my money goes...
11.85 @ 120mph First time out.
Last edited by dark_dementshun; 02-02-2009 at 06:00 PM..
No, this is one of 3 companies (well maybe now just 2) that offer a bolt in solution for the LS in a Miata. The other 2 companies subframes are a tubular design with very little reinforcement. Although they have been used in cars with up to mid 400's horsepower wise, i wanted a little peace of mind. If anything, this subframe is overbuilt in my opinion. Questionable construction? Maybe a couple rough edges, but nothing questionable about it in my opinion. It should be able to hold as much power as the chassis and rest of the car can take.
