i would just install your JY ls1 + turbo.. and do a clean and factory looking install.. keep it totally stock inside and out.. dont change a thing except shocks and brakes.. quiet exhaust
it would be the coolest sleeper, no cage (or a very well hidden one) kinda like the sleeper 1970 nova W2W did..
Start out on the cheap with the basics that you have and build it up from there... I have a 77 Toyota Celica GT. Every one told me to swap in the 2JZ I found a complete one but Now I am thinking stick and LS based motor in it. The adapter to run a Th400 cost me a fortune and a pigy back set up to run this thing Is cost me another 2k. But I have plenty of spare 5.3L parts laying around that no one seems to want. Best part is I can run a stock ECM and reprogram it. No need for stand alone crap...
Yep it sure is....they look alike but the difference is clear on the pillar in your wheelie photo [which I missed the first time around]...yours is a 610. In your first photo, it looked just like the 710, sorry 'bout that.
__________________ Kelly
'05 GMC Sierra SLE Z71
'98 Chevy S-10 LS
I say concentrate on keeping that frame intact, caged, good suspension, brakes etc, then go kinda cheap on the LS stuff so the working man could relate but keep it a sleeper. Would an LS motor even fit in there.......
I've already measured and the LS will fit in there with camaro accesories on it. It will be tight putting a turbo in there as well. I might move the center of the fire wall back 2 in for more room. I will have to swap out steering and front suspension parts. The datsun is a rear steer (behind the cross member) and to clear an F body pan I will need a front steer set up. A 3rd gen strut and brake setup is 3/4" shorter than the datsun and has a 1" wider track (mounted in the stock tower) than the datusn. I think I can get a TH350 in the tunnel without cutting it up and I should be able to retain the stock shifter. The rear end might be tricky as it is an independent (same as 510). I would like to slide a solid axle in there. I have a 12 bolt that is already 60" flange to flange. I will be stripping it this week end so we can get better measurments and such. Anyone need a good running L18? anyone?....
Put a rotary engine in there. Or an S2000 engine with a turbo. Lightweight.
rotory's have no torque and you have to pour windshield washer fluid into them to start when flooded and an S200 motor alone will cost more than the whole LS motor and turbo package and be 1/2 the power. Naw, I'm good! Thanks!
Whew, that looks like a really clean datsun and I'm sure it would be worth something to someone just like it is. You'd be better off selling it and finding a more beat up version to play with as far as money goes. Me personally, I'd turn that thing into a LeMons race car in a heartbeat. www.24hoursoflemons.com
i would just install your JY ls1 + turbo.. and do a clean and factory looking install.. keep it totally stock inside and out.. dont change a thing except shocks and brakes.. quiet exhaust
Ditto!
If it was in rough shape then I'd say hack it up and go all out, but this is a pretty sweet car for a Datsun. It has more personality than anything Nissan makes now.
Being a safety guy I am, I say do it once and do it right so you don't have to do it again.. and if you do have to do it again, you are a dumbass and it was your fault.. lol
__________________ 1997 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 A4 BBK Shorties, SLP LMII, 160*, 3.73's, Performabuilt Level 2 4L60E, Yank SS3600, March Power & Amp Pulley, CE Rear Drag Shocks, UMI Torque Arm Spring: LT's, ORY, new opti, wires, plugs, & DR's - Possible cam-only setup too 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS A4 DD
That car isn't worth anything. Unless they need it to remake some old Godzilla movies.
Have at it.
From working on an old 240Z I can say you will need to do something to stiffen the body. You don't have to go so far as a full cage, but subframe and strut braces at a minimim. Maybe a few strategic braces welded inside the body work. If you do go full cage, make sure and seam weld the snot out of the body.
Old Japanese cars are so light and the metal so prone to rust that they need something. I have seen V8's tear the spot welds out of the trans tunnels on otherwise rust free cars.
Whew, that looks like a really clean datsun and I'm sure it would be worth something to someone just like it is. You'd be better off selling it and finding a more beat up version to play with as far as money goes. Me personally, I'd turn that thing into a LeMons race car in a heartbeat. www.24hoursoflemons.com
That actually was a thought. I love the late 70's early 80's IMSA cars with the foot wide flares and crazy paint.
That car isn't worth anything. Unless they need it to remake some old Godzilla movies.
Have at it.
you will need to do something to stiffen the body. You don't have to go so far as a full cage, but subframe and strut braces at a minimim. Maybe a few strategic braces welded inside the body work. If you do go full cage, make sure and seam weld the snot out of the body.
Being a hard top car (no door post) then it is even more prone to cracking the quarters and such. Been there, done that, don't want to again. It will at the least have a 6 point cage tucked in nice and tight on top of sub frame connectors if I don't do a full frame.
Yeah the car is basically a newer 510 and I think it would be cool to go with more a road race or drift setup seeing that it already has IRS. Alloy LS motor and T56 alone would make that thing fly. Drop in a R200 diff from an STI, some Z brakes, etc and your set. A nice all round car that can hold its own on the drag strip as well as the road course would be awesome IMO!
Being a little bit of a Datsun guy (280z with LS1 swap) I know that would be a badass car with the powerplant and tons of fun on the streets.
I don't think the LS1 will "rip the car apart" at all if its as clean as it seems. I haven't done anything to mine and she's just fine. There are guys running much faster than me in Z's that are in worse shape and have no issues.
I can't wait to see what happens, regardless of which way you choose to do it.
__________________ 1976 Datsun 280Z
LS1-T56
224/224 .567"/.567" on 114, FAST 90mm intake, FAST 90mm TB, headers 11.77@ 119.97
363rwhp and 353ft/lb
Might have to run a car intake and oil pan for clearence though...
