I have no idea why you are not using the GM PCM, but the Wolf software has some fancy graphs!
Rao,
I see you are selling your LSx E36? What's your next project?
For most everyone else, there is no reaon NOT use the GM PCM. Here is my list for why WOLF or Vi-PEC vs why not GM PCM;
1) I already have the WOLF system in hand, could easily replace it with the Vi-PEC V88. 2) I don't have a GM PCM, would have to purchase a PCM, harness w/MAF, and being a tuner as well as an uber geek, would also have to purchase a tuning suite such as HPTuners so I can fine tune the mild odd ball combo, (5.3 with .500 lift cam, ported heads, 28 lb injectors). 3) WOLF and Vi-PEC are both 8 channel sequential fuel, 8 channel sequential ign system with tons of aux inputs and outputs, specific drivers for the various different IAC motors, (PWM, stepper motor, etc), Variable cam timing, stepper motors, drive by wire support with Vi-PEC, etc, built in diagnostics that can utilize the factory check engine light for troubleshooting, as well as the lap top of course. 4) WOLF and Vi-PEC both have been now been successfully runing on Gen-III LSx engines. 5) MAF delete is default. 6) Have used/tuned the V-500 for more than a year in another car so I am familiar with its architecture. 7) Has MANY features specific for boost, turbo timer etc, that the GM PCM just does not have, if I so decided to boost in the future.
In defense of the GM PCM, in my research, I have found it to be VERY capable in performance applications, allows the use of moderate levels of boost safely, EXCELLENT drivability, very tunable with aftermarket support, i.e HP-Tuners, etc. For most everyone else, there is no reaon NOT use the GM PCM.
This is pretty much the exact swap that I'm starting in a month or so. I have my T56 sitting in storage, and I just have to buy a 5.3 motor.
My question is, besides the intake manifold, do you have to swap out any of the other accessories on the 5.3 to make it fit in the BMW? I'm wondering if I should just buy a bare-block and buy all the accessories separately, or would it be okay to buy a dropout and just buy the intake?
In switching the intake over to LS1, you will most likely have to switch the water pump over as well. The outlet of the truck water pump is in the way of the LS1 Throttle body. If you stay drive By Wire instead of cable actuated throttle, you might be able to retain the truck water pump, I’m not 100% sure there.
The accy drive system of the truck will not work either as it places the alternator to high.
Here is a site with some good LSx engine swap info, covering the different accy drives, water pumps, oil pans, intakes, valve covers, etc. http://nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.html
This forum is dedicated the LSx engines. This particular section of that forum is dedicated to LSx Conversions and has pretty good tech and specs section in the yellow stickiest! http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28/
Small update, (pun intended...)
Haven’t done much of anything with the car this week. Today my youngest of 3 daughters wanted to help daddy in the shop, so while I was cleaning up after a quick and dirty engine tear down from last week, I handed my 4 year old a Datsun Z car valve spring, intake valve, rocker arm anti rattle spring, air cleaner, hose clamp, and 2 wrenches, pointed to the creeper and she kept herself busy under the M3 for over an hour while I cleaned up the shop! She popped out once in while to drink her apple juice from her sippy cup and to let me know the project was coming along just fine!
One of those daddy-daughter moments that you never want to forget! Hope she doesn’t either.
That is one hella cute kid!!! shes gonna be a knock out soon with those blue eyes and blond hair lol. i hope my kids do stuff like that, right now i just enjoy practicing Step 1
__________________ 98 NBM z28 A4- a few things put on, a few things removed, and suckin down $ every chance it gets.
Not much to update, finally got caught up enough on the other projects that I could spend a little time on this one today, messing with engine fitment. Nothing worthwhile to report, “yet”.
The new and improved trap door baffle for the F-body oil pan from Improved Racing products arrived today.
Instruction sheet is professional, thorough and well detailed.
Manufacturing/production quality is first rate!
Fit and finish in the F-body oil pan is amazing! The baffle is tight to the pan floor and tight to the forward wall of the pan! It is apparent the designer spent a good deal of time to make this happen.
In looking over this baffle from a design standpoint, it is also quite clear this was not just drawn up willy-nilly and sent to production, it was methodically engineered, every part, panel, nook and cranny has a job regarding oil control to and around the pick up tube!
For those wanting to build their own similar design, my advice is don’t waste your time. For the money, you will be hard pressed to even come close to this baffle.
My only addition to this is don’t forget to port the oil passages above the oil filter! Careful not to go too far in porting and bust through to an adjacent cavity. Just need to open the restriction at the intersections.
Not much of an update. Customer projects taking priority. Finished and shipped one of our custom L-6 cylinder heads, on its way to France, received another complete road race engine for a head freshen up with a new valve train, maybe a little valve unshrouding and 5 angle seat work that needs to ship back to the mid west by the end of the year, and my fathers Turbo Charged SBC 350 short block I need to assemble in the next couple of weeks!
As for the M3 LSx project, been doing some research and actual fitment of alternative brake options to free up more engine bay space, details of which I am not at liberty to give out at this time, suffice to say, results thus far are quite promising.
This conversion will incorporate a few changes that will help improve space constraints within the engine bay as well as lower the cost of the typical LSx E36 conversions.
Stay tuned, updates are still coming, but may take few more months for specifics to be released.
this may be a dumb question but I haven't seen it addressed...and I'm just collecting info right now...is the driveshaft on the coupe shorter than the sedan? And has anyone put a 4l60e in the e36?
this may be a dumb question but I haven't seen it addressed...and I'm just collecting info right now...is the driveshaft on the coupe shorter than the sedan? And has anyone put a 4l60e in the e36?
1) Driveshaft length, Dunno. 2) Auto trans in a V-8 E-36, Dunno.
I have a friend that is going to do this conversion based on my conversion, with a '92-'95 OBD-I E36 sedan and 4L60E, though probably wont start that project till spring some time.
Teensy weensy update.
Drilled and tapped one hole in the 5.3L block for the F-body alternator mount.
After receiving this F-body alt mount, it became immediately clear the truck blocks were not manufactured for the car accy drives. 2 of the 4 F-body/Vette mounting bosses missing on the passenger side of the block.
A quick search revealed that most just drill and tap the one boss that GM graciously cast in the iron truck blocks and just delete the 4th bolt that GM completely ignored on the truck blocks.
After setting up mine, using a machinists transfer punch then drilling and tapping that boss for 10mm x 1.5 mm, that missing 4th bolt boss looks like it is good idea, but with three 10mm x 1.5mm bolts mounting the alternator already, Ron and I both agree that 4th bolt is probably more for the NVH requirements, making the entire engine and accy package as one mass vs 10-15 individual masses all ringing and vibrating at their own frequency. The Datsun Z car Alternator is mounted with far less attachment and works fine, as such I’m not going to lose any sleep over this.
1) Driveshaft length, Dunno. 2) Auto trans in a V-8 E-36, Dunno.
I have a friend that is going to do this conversion based on my conversion, with a '92-'95 OBD-I E36 sedan and 4L60E, though probably wont start that project till spring some time.
Sorry couldn't be of more help.
funny what the search function will turn up. I did a seach on bimmerforums and found that the driveshafts generally the same between coupe, sedan and 'vert. BUT, there are some differences between models...325i v 328i.
This is one of the few sedan swaps I've come across. I'd like to do the swap in the future...e36 sedan with 4l60e. I'm not much of a fabricator so I'd be buying a kit but most kits are made for t56 swaps, not auto swaps.
great work and keep the pics coming! subbed here and on bimmerforums.
Just got this link from a member over at LS1LT1 forums and I am in the process of starting a LT1 383 T56 in a 1987 325es. I searched via google but found nothing but that must have been because I was looking for LT1. Very nice detailed thread. I will be using the tuned factory ECM although a little jealous of the management system you are using. I am also elimainting anything that would have to do with factory gauges being that I am doing a right hand drive just to be different. Again Props for an awsome project. Thanks for sharing!!!!
__________________ 383, Forged Crank , H-Beam Rods, Forged Wiesco Heavy Duty Flat Top Pistons, Lingenfelter Mechanical Roller Camshaft 236/244 .590/.590 w 1.6 rocker 112 CL, Crane Solid Roller Lifters, Crane Gold Race Roller Rockers 1.6, Manley Severe Duty 2.02 1.60 Stainless Valves +.100 Ported Heads and port matched intake. NOS Sportsman Direct Port Fogger System 240 HP Shot, http://www.Tunersncustoms.com/temp/signature2.gif
this is really cool watching this build! i cant wait to see it done!
__________________ 97 camaro z28/ss!! white on white and orange huggar stripes coming as soon as i get the ss hood!! have 98 ss spoiler and rims and flowmaster!
Nothing to update on the build itself, yet, other than I wanted to share an LSx swappers gold mine with you all. Nook & Tranny has wonderful page set up with some great tech and specs info on the various LSx engines an accessories for those of us swapping the LSx into non GM vehicles. Specs page lists the differences in intake’s heads, throttle bodies, oil pans, water pumps, accy drives, balancers, etc. They sell LSx specific parts such as accy drives, water pumps etc. Ordered more than few parts from them, including water pump, lots of gaskets, hardware, etc, customer service is first rate.
Man I really am thinking about doing this swap. This is soooo tempting here. I'm just trying to figure how much I would be looking at in the end. Also, did you reveal how your going to deal with the steering shaft and the #7 exhaust port?
Did a little 4th century style massaging in the tunnel of 20th century German engineering. Turned out Ok, not pretty but ok. "Massaging" was performed in an area not seen and it will get painted for protection.
Overall the LSx powertrain is a nice fit and as most have found out, if you are not modifying the oil pan, cross member, or cutting sections out of the firewall, with the F-body oil pan there really is only a very small window this power train package will fit within.
My latest mock up, I have established adequate clearances, trans output shaft is aimed directly at the diff input and is within .2 degrees, (2 tenths of a dregree) angularity up and down.
Stay tuned... 
