I have already gotten into the Install, but I thought I would Post some Pic's and info hopefully these will help someone else out ......I've gotten a Ton of info from people here on the site.......
I bought this Rust Free car out of Canada in 2000 and had planned to start on it at that time, but.....I got sidetracked on a couple other projects, so ...it worked out better for me as I decided not to put in a big block....But....to go with a LS2/Auto set-up
Starting Point...........
Enhgine arriving
GTO Gauge Module that will be built into the 37 Dash
Before and after Pic's........Feeling Good about now...........LOL
Sent all the Wires and Computers to Speartech for reworking...
Bought some uncoated Blockhuggers from Summit (Thought I was gonna have to cut them up to fit) and it seems as though they were made for the car..........Pretty cool ....something fits without any effort....LOL
There was no way the A.C. Compressor was going to fit....So....on the Judges advice I was going to get a frontrunner set-up......until I priced one out........Back to the drawing board.......Got a Sanden Compressor (which is smaller), but it still didn't fit.....I had two options......#1 cut the heck out of the crossmember (Didn't want to go down that road)......So....After seeing what some of the solutions that the guy's here came up with.....I decided to pursue option #2.......which was to get the compressor closer to the block....I took the stock GTO mount and machined 3/8 from the mounting pads that contacted the block and made some new adaptors for positioning the Sanden unit up and in relative to the old mounting........Worked perfectly....and got a Belt that's put's the tensioner right in the "Sweet Spot".......Still might trim the crossmember a touch....right now I have about a 1/2" clearance ......should be O.K........But!!!...
Got the A.C. unit installed inside, removed the stock windshield frame, cut out the cowl vent and welded it up solid...........
"And" ..........Ordered a Aluminum PRC Radiator/CondensorShroud/Fan set-up........Had a fitting for the Steam line put into the upper tank.......This is where I'm at now...gonna get the front sheetmetal back on to finalize the radiator position....also.....it seems to have clearance .....(for right now anyway).......
Very nicely done so far. I think you are gonna like it when done. Now about that Bel Air in the garage... 427/425??
Pat
__________________ 1953 Studebaker Starlight Coupe Custom, 2000 LS1, LS6 manifold, valve springs & PCV, ETC, Sanderson Headers, 4L60E, Yank Stealth 2800. 68 Nova Subframe, Ford 8 inch, 3.80 posi. 13.68 @ 102, I need traction!
Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=0
"Its gotta be bitchin', its gotta be low, and its gotta be drivable." - Fat Jack
I'll see if I can finds some more pictures - pretty much stock frame etc. He did custom interior and built the air box to loop back up on top of the motor (filter located in the black mailbox on the motor in the picture) and ran 2 hoses down to the front of the car to bring in cold air. HKe squeezed some 28" MT ET street radials in the back also.
__________________ 67 Camaro SS 350 and a 67 Camaro back half car
99 Z28 Camaro (Old motor - 585rwhp / 602 rwtq)
97 Nissan Maxima
00 Chevy Tahoe
21 Model T Roadster Pickup
65 FFR Shelby Cobra w/501ci BBF
57 Willys CJ5 Jeep
MD250 Mustang Dyno
__________________ 1953 Studebaker Starlight Coupe Custom, 2000 LS1, LS6 manifold, valve springs & PCV, ETC, Sanderson Headers, 4L60E, Yank Stealth 2800. 68 Nova Subframe, Ford 8 inch, 3.80 posi. 13.68 @ 102, I need traction!
Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=0
"Its gotta be bitchin', its gotta be low, and its gotta be drivable." - Fat Jack
__________________
2000 WS6:427 Solid roller LSX, ETP 6 bolt heads, MWC fab 9, th400 with a big nasty cam for nitrous.
2000 WS6 Formula ( show car.........)