Long story short, I've got a rod that started knocking in my racetruck over the weekend. It's an 85 S-10 RCSB, carbed sbc/th350, with a fuel cell. Instead of spending money on machine work on the old conventional SBC, I think I'd rather do an LS swap. I built the truck, (purpose built) it as a race truck. Nothing included other than what's needed to run, start, drive, stop. There is no interior, a/c, or electical in the truck other than required to drive, not even a radio. It's just a race only truck. I would rather not step down in cubic inches to a 5.3 but it may be the quickest way, plus they are stout runners too. I don't want to go Forced Induction with it any time soon either. I'd prefer just a regular truck LS motor with either stock intake or maybe a carbed intake, not sure.
So, I need to get a motor, stuff for fuel system since this motor was carbed. What do I need to look for in regards to harness? This will be my first LS swap. I had to do a lot of modifications for the SBC swap and expect now there will be more. If I kept it carbed would I still need to run a fuel return line to the cell? Any help would be greatly appreciated, ask away, the truck can be seen in "my album" Thanks for reading, I look forward to feedback and comments...
F-body Harnesses are easy to work with.. in all reality once you get into them they are all the same, it jut depends on what you want to set it up as.
As in carbed ot fuel injected, or what? What are some companies that do the harness modifications, when I'm looking for a motor should I look for complete with harness, computer and everything then use that harness or just look for an F-body one? Sorry for all the questions just trying to see what route I should go.
Just a few quick items or suggestions..
I would start with truck iron block engine if your going to be pushing the output level.. LQ9/4 (6.0L) or L92 (6.2L). The block will be stronger than a Alum one, unless your trying to keep the weight down (LS2, 3 or 7 block), but that is only about 80+ lbs. saved.
I would be cheaper in the long run to get a complete pull out if your going to be running in the street and need the Alternator, PS an water pump. But since this is a race only truck, you might get away with just a long block as I would assume your going to go with full race intake and possibly accessories.
The Harness would be a plus to start with if your going to EFI, or you can just go to Speartech and buy a custom one for your race setup. But if you keep it Carb'ed.. well a Carb'ed motor is a Carb'ed motor .. you already have the expertee's and what you have should be fine. I would also assume you have a HP fuel pump and regulator already, are you running a return on it or just dead heading the regulator ?
As far as mod's go.. shuold be too much.. just key in on the Pan and cross member and research the motor mount to see what combo you want to use.
I say F-body one cause it's really easy to work with, it was for me anyways..
I would get a PCM & complete Harness for cheap and tweak it to what you need, how familiar are you with it?
It can work with Carb'd or EFI, it's just what you want to build it too..
Quote:
Originally Posted by bczee
Just a few quick items or suggestions..
I would start with truck iron block engine if your going to be pushing the output level.. LQ9/4 (6.0L) or L92 (6.2L). The block will be stronger than a Alum one, unless your trying to keep the weight down (LS2, 3 or 7 block), but that is only about 80+ lbs. saved.
That L92 Block is Aluminum..it's pretty much an LS3..
I'm doing some digging now for info on the oil pan and mounts. Those items were tight just swapping in a regular sbc. So, I'm looking on car-part now and found tons of motors, several LQ4's, but maybe I should go with an iron block like LQ9 instead for future mods sake? I can't get the whole "lighter is faster-every ounce counts" mentality out of my head!
As far as the harness/PCM Merv, that part scares the $hit out of me, I hate wiring, so I am reluctant there. I think I'd rather just use the EFI intake, throttle body and such, and not go carbed now as far as induction (all I have is a Harwood 4" cowl). I think it'll be good experience, as I want to do a 6.0L in my Impala clone later too. This truck should be fairly straight-forward, bare bones. No A/C, power steering, just motor, and essentials.
Guess I'll start gathering parts, I'll let you guys know what I get when it happens. Suggestion table still open.......
I have alq4 I am selling for a buddy. motor and trans with harness and ecm. He is asking 1900 but I am sure he will take 1700 or it will end up in my garage next to my 6.0l and two ls block.
I have an LS1 at a shop just outside of San Antonio I need to sell. It's been used to mock up a chassis for my LS2 build. It's complete, although some of the front mount stuff was pulled off to check fitment, it's off a 60k 00 SS and has a bunch of the wiring harness with it.
If it was primarily a RACE truck....carb it, they always make more power, especially the L92 stuff
Here's the plan stan.......550 Horsepower on the cheap
1)Get a "LY6" 2007+ NBS 2500-3500 6.0 truck motor (usually around $1500 from yards)
This motor comes with the L92 / LS3 style heads stock.
2)Slap a Edelbrock single plane Victor on it, A 58x MSD timing box/harness kit, a 850 DP carb and a cam / spring swap in the high 230ish intake, 240ish exhaust on a 109-113 LSA. Dont forget to put .080 wall pushrods in there while your changing cam and springs. Keep the stock rockers, they'll do fine
3)Go Run 10's for cheap and be happy! If you can launch it......Gonna need stall, gear and tire
Oh yea.....
4)Keep below 6800 Rpm, or bring a buddy to collect the stock rod bolts & associated parts it will scatter all over the track....unless you swapped those out
3 wire hookup with the MSD box, the rest is plug and play. Slap some 17/8 headers on it and let 'er rip
Last edited by LQ9CHEVELLE; 08-31-2009 at 09:11 PM..
Wow LQ9, you should be a motivational speaker man, that got me all kinds of excited! Ok, I'll look around for an LY6 tomorrow online. The truck was "purpose built", it's back-halved, w/ a narrowed & backbraced 9" w 4.11's, race-spool, Moser 33 splines, coilovers, ladder bars adjustable everywhere, even ride height in the rear, aerospace race brakes, and so on. All it needs now is a motor worthy of all that hard work. I have a TH-350 with a 3k stall, the stall will have to go but I wonder about the TH-350? I'm just worried about the whole wiring part again, I'm just overthinking it I'm sure! Thanks for all the input...Keep it coming. Take a look at the truck in my photos, it's beggin' for an LSx, "especially now"!
TH350's can be built up pretty stout, and they rob alot less power than a 400. But seems like most heavy hitters are running a TH400. If your car is on the lighter side, the built TH350 might hang in there. Too many variables to take into account to guess on that one. That carbed LY6 would be a good setup for a drag car though. you could always get a LQ4 or a LQ9 and slap those heads on there, but if your starting from scratch, might as well get the LY6 for almost the same price as the LQ4 and LQ9, and already have the heads for free. You'll need to put a LS2-lS3 front timing cover on it, and a 4x timing gear. $100 bucks worth of stuff. You'll remove the VVT while your swapping the cam, you can keep the chain tensioner setup it comes with, it works well. Im doing a LY6 currently for my new build, but slapping a turbo on it. Just need more time, $$$$$ and some more $$$$$$
TH350's can be built up pretty stout, and they rob alot less power than a 400. But seems like most heavy hitters are running a TH400. If your car is on the lighter side, the built TH350 might hang in there. Too many variables to take into account to guess on that one. That carbed LY6 would be a good setup for a drag car though. you could always get a LQ4 or a LQ9 and slap those heads on there, but if your starting from scratch, might as well get the LY6 for almost the same price as the LQ4 and LQ9, and already have the heads for free. You'll need to put a LS2-lS3 front timing cover on it, and a 4x timing gear. $100 bucks worth of stuff. You'll remove the VVT while your swapping the cam, you can keep the chain tensioner setup it comes with, it works well. Im doing a LY6 currently for my new build, but slapping a turbo on it. Just need more time, $$$$$ and some more $$$$$$
I do like your idea of getting the induction desired with the motor. I wanted
L92's anyway, It's just gonna come down to how much it costs to get into one. As for the TH350, I'd like to keep it, as it's built well and the driveshaft is built already, right length, installed, and I think even warrantied against stress failure! I'm really excited and am doing research as to what mounts work well with what headers, oilpan, and etc. Input greatly appreciated if you have experience here.....
Whats going on man!
I noticed your from my neck of the woods!
If you plan to go fuel injection, there is a guy on ebay that makes up these harness. For the quality that they come in, I think the price is right for them.
Whats going on man!
I noticed your from my neck of the woods!
If you plan to go fuel injection, there is a guy on ebay that makes up these harness. For the quality that they come in, I think the price is right for them.
I appreciate it man, you know his name/store? After LQ9's pep talk I may go carbed w/ L92 stuff. I can decide that for sure a little later. Now I'm researching the swap stuff and looking at options for everything from oil pan to headers. Thanks for saying hello, I've seen you on streetscene before, we kinda get lost on here though!
Hurt motor, time for a LSx swap. 
Guess I should be thinking that early in the morning for me... LOL
