You can find Batwing's here. F-body's need an Accusump as I noted. You can make a cheapy pre-oiler (Accusump) that holds a qt. of oil w/ a mechanical open/close valve & a gauge. I have used one for years w/an F-body pan. Custom made headers are your only option if readily available LSX headers won't work.
Yah, I forgot, classifieds you need 6 months or 200 posts. Although, if you see an something you like, I think that you can still PM or e-mail members. PM's & e-mails usually get a faster response than posting in a sales thread, anyway.
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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Yeah, I saw the accusump note.. just wondered if it was really required, given that even the truck pans have baffles and windage trays - evidently they must not work that well eh? I'd rather be safe than sorry, but I don't want any more plumbing and nonsense than necessary. The Vette LS2 pans look like the old f-body pan, certainly not like the older batwing pan... can we assume they do just as good a job in high G situations as the batwing? (dry sump would be ideal, but not in the current budget)
I'm avoiding headers. I hate the headers that are on my car. Stainless would be ok, but thats expensive. This is all a budget build. I really like the LS7 manifolds, but I suppose even the standard C5 or C6 manifolds would be better than the truck's, and put the exit of the exhaust in a better position for my application.
6 mo and 200 posts.. hmm. Well, it is what it is, thank you LS1-450 for letting me know.
Since I can't post there yet,
WTB: F-body T56 w/ reasonable miles and good shifting. Need bellhousing, clutch setup, hydraulics, pedals, etc... if anyone has them laying around
As stated, all you have to do is to PM or e-mail the member selling the part you want. You are able to send PM's & e-mail's. Just left click on the members handle (name) & the options PM, e-mail, etc. will pop up. Just click on "send ... a private message," then make your offer or discuss purchasing the part for sale. The member will then return your PM.
In regards to the pre-oiler (Accusump), all I can say is that more than a few LSX engines have suffered oil starvation failures on road courses.
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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I know, I just meant that I wouldn't be able to post a want add for people to respond to me with. I've been looking on the FS board and been sending pm's. thanks for taking the time to explain it though, i should have been clearer earlier.
Quote:
In regards to the pre-oiler (Accusump), all I can say is that more than a few LSX engines have suffered oil starvation failures on road courses.
that surprises me a bit, considering how far we've come since the first sbc motor was run on a road course, but I believe it. I suppose it comes down to cost, and the assumption that an f-body car wouldn't be road raced (whereas the vette might be[?]).
Well, my motor is supposed to finally ship on monday, hopefully see it around wednesday.. Then the real fun begins.
that surprises me a bit, considering how far we've come since the first sbc motor was run on a road course, but I believe it. I suppose it comes down to cost, and the assumption that an f-body car wouldn't be road raced (whereas the vette might be[?]).
Could be.......Vettes do have independant rear suspensions, better brakes, shocks & springs & are better balanced. Where as F-body's have a solid rear axle......etc.. Vettes w/ compitent drivers do very well on our local road courses.
All I can say is that there are two main issues, oil starvation & lack of oil viscocity. Most people don't realize that without an oil cooler, oil temps can reach in excess of 300*F during an open track day 20 minute session. Most street engines, including the LSX, are designed to run near a 70 viscocity @ 100*C, 212*F. So, the street oils basically break down thinner than water @ the higher temps. Further, the stock water (coolant) temp gauge never tells the driver that the OIL is too hot & the owner never knows it, then wonders how his engine failed. I have seen my water gauge never go above 230*F when the oil was 280* F before adding the oil cooler. This is much higher than the standard 20-25*F higher oil temps than water temps while street driving. So, it's either oil temp/viscocity or oil starvation & could be both that cause road course engine failures. I use 15 or 20W-50 racing oil (road course only, not street), a pre-oiler, oil cooler & stand alone oil temp, water temp & oil pressure gauges to be safe.
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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Well, things are moving along.. Cleaned up my L33, hopefully have some truck bits up for sale soon, get back a few bucks. Switching to f-body accessories, so I'm looking for brackets, plus an alternator, water pump, and power steering pump.
LS1 intake manifold on the way, LS7 exhaust manifolds on the way, cable throttle body on the way.. so those will be next to install. Need to get a better book as well, there's a GMPP book out there somewhere for swaps thats supposed to be good.
Any f-body stuff laying in somebody's garage? :smile: I'll be watching the classifieds!
Ah, also redid my engine mockup in SolidWorks after taking some measurements on my motor, looks much better now, although still pretty rudimentary. Will make it a little nicer when I get a min.
Parts listed above are test fitted, sort of half installed. Right now I just need to get the motor fully dressed, so I can get some real dimensions for my 3d mockup in SolidWorks.
Alternator bracket, powersteering bracket, crank pulley, alternator, steering pump, and steering cooler on the way...
Still waiting on my missing engine harness to get shipped..
In the meantime, does it matter which MAF I use, since I'm using the truck harness and pcm? O2 sensors, same question? --> Looks like either, just make sure I tell the guy who's flashing my PCM which I use.
