Bsharpe's 71 Chevelle ls1/4l60e swap
01-20-2010, 09:59 PM
#22
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It does not look like i am going to have any time this weekend to work on the chevelle. I have all of the parts waiting for me, I just need a little spare time to finish the install.
I have started working on the next step and decided to use ls1 or c5 brakes front and rear.
I have started working on the next step and decided to use ls1 or c5 brakes front and rear.
01-20-2010, 10:18 PM
#23
I guess its time to start a thread to document my swap.
I bought a 1971 Chevelle back in August with the intention of building a pro-touring car. It took me about a year to find a good candidate.
I have a very strict budget and will be doing everything one step at a time. The first step is the ls1 4l60e swap. For the last couple months I have done all of my research and collected parts.
So far I have:
Complete 2000 5.7 ls1 engine
Matching 4l60e with approximately 40000 miles
Edelbrock Headers and engine mounts
Lh8 Hummer oil pan
94 Caprice gas tank
Corvette fpr
Dorman quick disconnect fittings
ford Taurus 2 speed fan
I pulled the original 307 engine and th350 trans during thanksgiving weekend. I did a quick test fit of everything. It looks like I have to massage the trans tunnel a little and raise the passenger side of the engine ¼” for tie rod clearance. Sorry i did not take any pictures.
I realize that the lh8 pan is not ideal but I felt it was my best option for fitment and budget reasons.
I am currently waiting on my wiring harness and computer which I ordered from chevythunder_ls1 on ebay.
I still need to get the racetronix kit for the caprice pump assembly.
I also need to figure out what I am going to do about fuel lines. I originally planned on using the stock 3/8 line but it has been cut and repaired and I do not trust it.
I also plan on using a Scangauge II until I can afford an aftermarket dash and gauges.
Here is a Rendering that my brother made for me. It probably wont look like this for a long time.
I bought a 1971 Chevelle back in August with the intention of building a pro-touring car. It took me about a year to find a good candidate.
I have a very strict budget and will be doing everything one step at a time. The first step is the ls1 4l60e swap. For the last couple months I have done all of my research and collected parts.
So far I have:
Complete 2000 5.7 ls1 engine
Matching 4l60e with approximately 40000 miles
Edelbrock Headers and engine mounts
Lh8 Hummer oil pan
94 Caprice gas tank
Corvette fpr
Dorman quick disconnect fittings
ford Taurus 2 speed fan
I pulled the original 307 engine and th350 trans during thanksgiving weekend. I did a quick test fit of everything. It looks like I have to massage the trans tunnel a little and raise the passenger side of the engine ¼” for tie rod clearance. Sorry i did not take any pictures.
I realize that the lh8 pan is not ideal but I felt it was my best option for fitment and budget reasons.
I am currently waiting on my wiring harness and computer which I ordered from chevythunder_ls1 on ebay.
I still need to get the racetronix kit for the caprice pump assembly.
I also need to figure out what I am going to do about fuel lines. I originally planned on using the stock 3/8 line but it has been cut and repaired and I do not trust it.
I also plan on using a Scangauge II until I can afford an aftermarket dash and gauges.
Here is a Rendering that my brother made for me. It probably wont look like this for a long time.
2nd feed line coming off the caprice filter to the intake. I know it seems strange to use 2 filters but it works without any flaws and it was cheaper than the expensive little fittings.
01-20-2010, 10:56 PM
#24
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A quick and easy solution to your fuel line dilemma would be to purchase the matching fuel lines from the 94' Caprice and get a fuel filter for the Caprice also. The caprice feed line is 2 parts and the return is 1 line from intake to tank. You'll have the 1st feed line coming from the tank to the vette fpr and then the caprice filter coming from the other side of the vette fpr and the
2nd feed line coming off the caprice filter to the intake. I know it seems strange to use 2 filters but it works without any flaws and it was cheaper than the expensive little fittings.
2nd feed line coming off the caprice filter to the intake. I know it seems strange to use 2 filters but it works without any flaws and it was cheaper than the expensive little fittings.
01-29-2010, 02:33 PM
#25
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a little bit of time and was able to finish up some of the small stuff. I got a upper radiator hose from a 82 Buick regal like recommended from others but it was a little to long for my set up.
No problem, i planned on installing the steam line on the hose any way. So, after cutting and installing this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-1-2...item5885bed847 it fits perfectly
I also installed a jeep grand cherokee steering box. I got a pressure line from a ls1 corvette to use but to my surprise the corvette and fbody power steering fittings are different sizes. so i have to get the correct pressure power steering line. The steering box swap only cost me 44 dollars.
All i have to do is do a little more wiring and install my battery and i should be able to start it.
No problem, i planned on installing the steam line on the hose any way. So, after cutting and installing this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-1-2...item5885bed847 it fits perfectly
I also installed a jeep grand cherokee steering box. I got a pressure line from a ls1 corvette to use but to my surprise the corvette and fbody power steering fittings are different sizes. so i have to get the correct pressure power steering line. The steering box swap only cost me 44 dollars.
All i have to do is do a little more wiring and install my battery and i should be able to start it.
02-09-2010, 08:57 PM
#26
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Chevelle is currently under 30 inches of snow with more to come. I will not be starting the car for a while. Any other winter and i would have the car completely restored by now.
03-21-2010, 10:43 PM
#27
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The snow has melted but i have a new job now and have not had any time to work on the chevelle. Sorry for the slow progress.
I finally finished up all of the wiring. I used this diagram to wire the park neutral switch.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/60122.pdf and i used a brake switch with cruise control to hook up the tcc brake switch.
i purchased an f-body pressure power steering hose. It did not fit as well as i hoped but it will work.
Most everyone has put their filter behind the headlights but after looking at it closely i did not feel enough cold air would get back there. So i moved my small block chevelle radiator as far to the passenger side as possible, which left a large opening for fresh cold air to enter the engine bay.
I then flipped the gto intake tube to put the filter in the opening
It is not a perfect fit but it works.
I also had to redo my radiator hose to allow room for the intake tube.
My goal was to actually start the engine today. So i put some gas in my installed caprice tank hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and used the fuel pump jumper to engage the fuel pump. It was louder then i thought it should be and i did not have fuel pressure. Gas wasnt leaving the pump assembly at all. I pulled the fuel pump and checked everything but it all looked good. I dont understand how i can here the pump running yet not a drop of gas comes out.
If someone could look at my these pictures and figure out what is wrong i would appreciate it. I do not want to buy a new pump.
I did remove the cap on the bottom of the pump and added the filter pick up thing.
I moved on and tried to check if i had oil pressure. i removed the spark plugs and disconnected the coil pack harness and fuel pump(even though it doesnt work). I used jumper cables to keep the battery from draining while i turned over the engine. NO oil pressure either. Tried again for another 30 seconds but nothing. I didnt want to damage anything so i stopped. I removed one of the valve covers to make sure my gauge wasnt broke but it was dry. I was pissed and took a break. i thought i had screwed up the oil pickup o ring. i came back and decided to try again before i put everything back and some how i got instant oil pressure.
If i only had fuel pressure i could start it. I am not in a hurry considering i dont have a driveshaft , its not insured, it still has the stock suspension, awful manual drum brakes, and is 4 different colors including a lot of rust.
I finally finished up all of the wiring. I used this diagram to wire the park neutral switch.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/60122.pdf and i used a brake switch with cruise control to hook up the tcc brake switch.
i purchased an f-body pressure power steering hose. It did not fit as well as i hoped but it will work.
Most everyone has put their filter behind the headlights but after looking at it closely i did not feel enough cold air would get back there. So i moved my small block chevelle radiator as far to the passenger side as possible, which left a large opening for fresh cold air to enter the engine bay.
I then flipped the gto intake tube to put the filter in the opening
It is not a perfect fit but it works.
I also had to redo my radiator hose to allow room for the intake tube.
My goal was to actually start the engine today. So i put some gas in my installed caprice tank hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and used the fuel pump jumper to engage the fuel pump. It was louder then i thought it should be and i did not have fuel pressure. Gas wasnt leaving the pump assembly at all. I pulled the fuel pump and checked everything but it all looked good. I dont understand how i can here the pump running yet not a drop of gas comes out.
If someone could look at my these pictures and figure out what is wrong i would appreciate it. I do not want to buy a new pump.
I did remove the cap on the bottom of the pump and added the filter pick up thing.
I moved on and tried to check if i had oil pressure. i removed the spark plugs and disconnected the coil pack harness and fuel pump(even though it doesnt work). I used jumper cables to keep the battery from draining while i turned over the engine. NO oil pressure either. Tried again for another 30 seconds but nothing. I didnt want to damage anything so i stopped. I removed one of the valve covers to make sure my gauge wasnt broke but it was dry. I was pissed and took a break. i thought i had screwed up the oil pickup o ring. i came back and decided to try again before i put everything back and some how i got instant oil pressure.
If i only had fuel pressure i could start it. I am not in a hurry considering i dont have a driveshaft , its not insured, it still has the stock suspension, awful manual drum brakes, and is 4 different colors including a lot of rust.
03-29-2010, 10:26 PM
#30
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks
The swap is on hold for a little while. I need adjustable rear control arms to adjust my pinion angle before i have my driveshaft shortened. I am going to wait until Spring Carlisle to purchase one of UMI's setups.http://www.carlisleevents.com/ce/eve...ring-carlisle/
If i do have time before then i am going to start stripping the paint so i can get the car in one color.
03-30-2010, 11:45 AM
#31
no oil pressure
04-05-2010, 10:25 PM
#32
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I finally figured out the fuel pump problem. The racetronix wiring harness was wired backwards causing my fuel pump to blow bubbles instead of supplying pressure. I switched the wires in ht e pump assemble and everything works perfectly.
Hopefully i can get the suspension and brakes figured out so i can start driving it.
Also check out my parts for sale. i got a lot of parts that could help other swappers.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...sors-more.html
Hopefully i can get the suspension and brakes figured out so i can start driving it.
Also check out my parts for sale. i got a lot of parts that could help other swappers.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...sors-more.html
04-06-2010, 09:23 AM
#33
I am understand your reasoniing on moving the radiator over, but I think its a eyesore. IMHO
05-04-2010, 10:56 PM
#34
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
She runs
I got inpatient and started it a couple of weeks ago. It fired up on its first try. It has good oil pressure and runs great. The Idle is a little high which is because the throttle body looks to be drilled out.
I picked up UMI's adjustable uppers and tubular lower control arms at spring Carlisle. They allowed me to correct my pinion angle and order a driveshaft which will hopefully be here in a week or two.
Since the drivetrain is complete i have started working on the suspension and Brakes. my current plan is to find a set of used ls1 brakes for all 4 corners, use spc's adjustable upper arms and power performance tall ball joints. This should fix the geometry of the front suspension and leave me enough money to buy some rims and tires.
I got inpatient and started it a couple of weeks ago. It fired up on its first try. It has good oil pressure and runs great. The Idle is a little high which is because the throttle body looks to be drilled out.
I picked up UMI's adjustable uppers and tubular lower control arms at spring Carlisle. They allowed me to correct my pinion angle and order a driveshaft which will hopefully be here in a week or two.
Since the drivetrain is complete i have started working on the suspension and Brakes. my current plan is to find a set of used ls1 brakes for all 4 corners, use spc's adjustable upper arms and power performance tall ball joints. This should fix the geometry of the front suspension and leave me enough money to buy some rims and tires.
06-04-2010, 05:28 PM
#35
I have not done anything in the last 2 weeks except put the car under the cover at the bottom of the driveway.
i did put the front clip on to try and decided where i want to put some things.
Here are some pictures
I tried really hard to prepare but i needed to wait and go get more parts.
I ordered intake bolts from enginepartsplus.com. They have good prices and a lot of ls stuff but require a $50 minimum order and the ordering process can take a while as they are not technologically up to date.
I am also going to get a jeep grand Cherokee steering box so i can use the stock power steering line which i have to find as well.
I have to finish the following things before i can start it.
-do the interior part of the wiring harness
-get and install radiator hoses
-install jeep steering box and power steering lines(hopefully the alternator clearance is the same)
-Buy and install intake (i think i am going to buy a kit for a gto or truck and make it work)
-buy and fill with fluids
I will try and finish things up next weekend.
I am having trouble sticking to my initial budget and plan. I really want to upgrade the brakes and suspension and clean up the chassis. while it would be easy.
i did put the front clip on to try and decided where i want to put some things.
Here are some pictures
I tried really hard to prepare but i needed to wait and go get more parts.
I ordered intake bolts from enginepartsplus.com. They have good prices and a lot of ls stuff but require a $50 minimum order and the ordering process can take a while as they are not technologically up to date.
I am also going to get a jeep grand Cherokee steering box so i can use the stock power steering line which i have to find as well.
I have to finish the following things before i can start it.
-do the interior part of the wiring harness
-get and install radiator hoses
-install jeep steering box and power steering lines(hopefully the alternator clearance is the same)
-Buy and install intake (i think i am going to buy a kit for a gto or truck and make it work)
-buy and fill with fluids
I will try and finish things up next weekend.
I am having trouble sticking to my initial budget and plan. I really want to upgrade the brakes and suspension and clean up the chassis. while it would be easy.
06-06-2010, 10:48 AM
#37
my setup is very similar to yours. i didnt like how the edlebrock mounts covered up ac compressor mounting holes at the front. did u drill holes in the crossmember for the frame stands?
my engine is out of a F body and i couldnt get any of the holes close to lining up. with Speedway mounts i got i could mount the stands backwards and it fit with no holes drilled! with the f body pan and accessories.
they are thick like the edlebrocks and my headers hang low also. i have been debating adding spacers under the frame stands but im at 3 degrees now and i dont think its going to make much of a difference on headers.
i put SPC lower control arms, stage 2+ uppers, and SPC lowering springs and my headers look REALLY low. sorry my pictures is horrible. but u can see it hangs alot lower than the T56. sitting on the tires with no front clip
i used f body power steering lines on my jeep steering box i just re bent the lines and it fits good.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...56-swap-3.html
my engine is out of a F body and i couldnt get any of the holes close to lining up. with Speedway mounts i got i could mount the stands backwards and it fit with no holes drilled! with the f body pan and accessories.
they are thick like the edlebrocks and my headers hang low also. i have been debating adding spacers under the frame stands but im at 3 degrees now and i dont think its going to make much of a difference on headers.
i put SPC lower control arms, stage 2+ uppers, and SPC lowering springs and my headers look REALLY low. sorry my pictures is horrible. but u can see it hangs alot lower than the T56. sitting on the tires with no front clip
i used f body power steering lines on my jeep steering box i just re bent the lines and it fits good.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...56-swap-3.html
06-08-2010, 09:23 AM
#40
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry for not updating the thread sooner. I have been slowly gathering the front suspension, brakes, rims and tires as well as doing some body work.
I am piecing together my own suspension kit to safe a little money. I am going to use my stock lower control arms, SPC adjustable uppers, power performance tall ball joints, and circle track springs. I really like SC&C stage 2 kit but i have to save money where i can.
I got front and rear brakes from a ls1 camaro. I ordered brackets from Rich Hoag for the front and will make my own spacer for the rear. I did not get the rubber hose lines so i might purchase the braided set from Kore 3 to adapt to my chevelle hard lines
I choose the ls1 brakes over the others mainly because of price. They are very good brakes and i will be spending a fraction of the price.
I also purchased a set of c5 Z06 rims. All 4 are 17 x 9.5 and i will rap them with 275/40 tires. I will need to order 2 sets of spacer but i have not decided which size yet.
I stripped the paint of of all of the removable panels and epoxy primed them. I still need to strip the quarter panels and remove the vinyl top and paint them.
I still need to order a driveshaft and pipes 3" exhaust system and i am going to use magnaflow mufflers.
I also learned that hagerty requires the car to be garage kept which mine is not so i have to do some more research and decide who i am going to insure the chevelle with.
The f body accessories fits with little to no modifications. Using the edelbrock plates and stock engine stands it bolted right up. I put the engine in first and then pried the alternator in. I later raised the engine more (for tie rod clearance) and grinded both my steering box and alternator for more room.
I did not plan on using AC so that did not bother me. I did not have to move the frame stands. I left them bolted in and then forced the engine to bolt on top.
Im not as worried about the ground clearance anymore. I ll probably have more clearance under my headers then a lot of new cars have under their front bumper. I raised my 4l60e as far up as possible with out cutting.
Like i said above i am going to have a similar front suspension except i am using the stock lower control arms which will not lower mine as much.
If I remember correctly i used a hose from a suburban with a 5.3 I dont remember the part number but it worked really well once i shifted the radiator which puts the lower inlet in the same spot as a big block radiator.
I am piecing together my own suspension kit to safe a little money. I am going to use my stock lower control arms, SPC adjustable uppers, power performance tall ball joints, and circle track springs. I really like SC&C stage 2 kit but i have to save money where i can.
I got front and rear brakes from a ls1 camaro. I ordered brackets from Rich Hoag for the front and will make my own spacer for the rear. I did not get the rubber hose lines so i might purchase the braided set from Kore 3 to adapt to my chevelle hard lines
I choose the ls1 brakes over the others mainly because of price. They are very good brakes and i will be spending a fraction of the price.
I also purchased a set of c5 Z06 rims. All 4 are 17 x 9.5 and i will rap them with 275/40 tires. I will need to order 2 sets of spacer but i have not decided which size yet.
I stripped the paint of of all of the removable panels and epoxy primed them. I still need to strip the quarter panels and remove the vinyl top and paint them.
I still need to order a driveshaft and pipes 3" exhaust system and i am going to use magnaflow mufflers.
I also learned that hagerty requires the car to be garage kept which mine is not so i have to do some more research and decide who i am going to insure the chevelle with.
my setup is very similar to yours. i didnt like how the edlebrock mounts covered up ac compressor mounting holes at the front. did u drill holes in the crossmember for the frame stands?
my engine is out of a F body and i couldnt get any of the holes close to lining up. with Speedway mounts i got i could mount the stands backwards and it fit with no holes drilled! with the f body pan and accessories.
they are thick like the edlebrocks and my headers hang low also. i have been debating adding spacers under the frame stands but im at 3 degrees now and i dont think its going to make much of a difference on headers.
i put SPC lower control arms, stage 2+ uppers, and SPC lowering springs and my headers look REALLY low. sorry my pictures is horrible. but u can see it hangs alot lower than the T56. sitting on the tires with no front clip
i used f body power steering lines on my jeep steering box i just re bent the lines and it fits good.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...56-swap-3.html
my engine is out of a F body and i couldnt get any of the holes close to lining up. with Speedway mounts i got i could mount the stands backwards and it fit with no holes drilled! with the f body pan and accessories.
they are thick like the edlebrocks and my headers hang low also. i have been debating adding spacers under the frame stands but im at 3 degrees now and i dont think its going to make much of a difference on headers.
i put SPC lower control arms, stage 2+ uppers, and SPC lowering springs and my headers look REALLY low. sorry my pictures is horrible. but u can see it hangs alot lower than the T56. sitting on the tires with no front clip
i used f body power steering lines on my jeep steering box i just re bent the lines and it fits good.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...56-swap-3.html
Im not as worried about the ground clearance anymore. I ll probably have more clearance under my headers then a lot of new cars have under their front bumper. I raised my 4l60e as far up as possible with out cutting.
Like i said above i am going to have a similar front suspension except i am using the stock lower control arms which will not lower mine as much.
If I remember correctly i used a hose from a suburban with a 5.3 I dont remember the part number but it worked really well once i shifted the radiator which puts the lower inlet in the same spot as a big block radiator.