Weekendbob

Like many people, I've learned a lot from these threads so I thought I'd give back by posting my build. Hopefully I'll help out the next person since I haven't seen a conversion exactly like mine. The main challenge I had was adapting the new LSX block with its 8 hole crank to an older non-electronic transmission since most existing adapters are for 6 hole cranks. I'll write up my solution to this in a separate post.

First my goals:

1. Use GMPP's new LSX 454 engine
2. Keep it clean and traditional looking (similar to the "Reggie Jackson" Camaro build)
2. Use my existing 200R4 transmission capable of handling 700+ HP
3. No frame welding or cutting
4. Use mostly off the shelf conversion parts
5. Do all the work in my own garage over a 4 month period.

Below is a picture of the engine fresh out of the GM crate, and my eagerly awaiting Chevelle in the background.



More posts will follow with key parts of the install.

350SS

iTrader: (38)

Looks like a great car to put that motor in. What motor did you have in front of the 2004r trans? Going injected or carbed?

Weekendbob

When I bought the car 5 years ago, it was stripped down yellow bracket car with a strong 383. I've restored almost the entire car since, saving the engine for last.

Weekendbob

GM Performance Parts started advertising the LSX 454 on their website over 2 years ago when the prototype was used in Reggie Jackson's Camaro. But owing to the economy or other reasons, they didn't actually begin shipping until January 2010. Many times over those two years I resisted the temptation to go with a traditional 454 big block. Thankfully I did - who can argue against an LSX 454 that's 200 - 300 pounds lighter, has 620 stock rated HP in a bullet-proof block that's been pushed up to 2,500 HP, and the potential for gas mileage in the 20's?!!

But when GMPP did start shipping, it was no longer in the deluxe form they had been advertising. So I had a lot of research to do on finishing out the engine including selecting the right oil pan, water-pump, intake, fuel system, and other misc. items.

For the intake, knowing I wanted a traditional carbureted look, I went with GMPP's new LSX/LS7 square bore intake manifold (P/N 19166948).
For the oil pan, I spent hours researching different options for Chevelles - including modified F-body LS pans, aftermarket pans that relocate the filter, and GM's "Musclecar" oil pan which hangs about 2 inches below the crossmember. I ended up ordering the "Musclecar" oil pan kit and about the time it arrived I came across the pan sold by "RetroLSX" here on LS1tech. It had all the features of a stock looking pan without hanging below the crossmember so I ordered his as well and used parts from the GM kit to finish out his pan (and eBay'd the GM pan).

To get the new pan's pickup tube to work with the stock LSX windage tray, I had to do some clearancing around one bolt hole and along the side of the tray (off the engine of course). The other option would have been to shorten the GM supplied pickup tube but that would involve welding so clearancing seemed easier. Unfortunately I didn't capture a pic with the pickup tube installed but you can see the clearancing required below.



For headers, I went with Edelbrock's LS retrofit A-body headers (PN 65073) which are ceramic coated and look great. I also used Edelbrock's LS conversion motor mount plates (PN 6701) which are supposed to resolve any frame clearance issues when using the Edelbrock headers.

Other misc. parts included Autometer metric sensor adapters (water: PN 2268, oil: PN 2267, temp: PN 2241) for use with my existing Autometer gauges. Picked up an OEM LS7 starter, and ordered Energy Suspension Motor Mounts.

I powdercoated the intake and oil pan silver before installation.



Next, comes cleaning up the engine bay and trying some test fittings.

Dave-1970

Be warned (from personal experience) that the edelbrock adapter plates/retrofit exhaust will cause driver side header to frame clearance issues (unless you add riser shims to the motor mounts). I used the edelbrock plates and the retrofit exhaust with 350 motor mounts and had to move engine back about 1 1/2'' toward the firewall to gain clearance for the driver header tubes...BTW, F-body oil pan is perfect for your 70 if you are willing to move the engine back as I did...

boostin05blacksti

great thread...me and my dad are looking to get the same motor you have and put it into my 67 camaro...I will be watching this very closely. Great info on the part number and what you pieced together..keep up with the great infromation.

nj85z28

iTrader: (6)

this build is going to be great..i love the 70 Chevelle..and you picked a great engine in my opinion.

cgslow77

iTrader: (2)

wow looks great

SilverBullet73

iTrader: (2)

Looks great, that's going to be an awesome setup!

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

What does a crate like that cost?

rjwz28

Perfect setup! Good luck with the build and keep us posted.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Around $9500

Rybar

iTrader: (11)

Nice build. Keep us posted

Weekendbob

Nothing too special about this process. After pulling out the engine (left the tranny in place), I pulled the inner fender wells, all the old wiring, and everything off the firewall. Then started degreasing, wire brushing (to remove some tough rust), and sanding. Filled in and smoothed out the firewall as much as I could. It's amazing how many screw holes can accumulate in a firewall over 40 years! The paint I went with for the engine bay, frame, and steering components is POR-15's gloss black. This stuff is great - goes right over rust. For the bare metal areas, I used their recommended etching solution first, then 2 coats of POR. Since I'm not too experienced with a paint gun and was worried about overspray, I simply brushed it on and it levels out very similarly to being sprayed.

Before:



After:

Weekendbob

Thanks for the tip. I did run into 2 initial clearance issues. One was the bottom front of the oil pan resting on the front crossmember. The second was the passenger side header hitting the frame (probably from me moving the frame mount pedestals to try to elevate the pan). Problem solved with some mount spacers and a BF hammer. Will talk about it in my next post.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Great project going there !

Are you going to be using AC and which one and what front accossories are you using (F-body, vette, aftermarket).. I think you said you were going to try to use off the self parts.. but is that aftermarket shelf or GM's ?

What adapter plates/style are you using ? if your leaving the 200R4.. I would assume the 1" setback ?

keep them posts coming !!!

Weekendbob

I went with the Edelbrock adapter plates. Besides being designed to work with their headers, they also locate the LS block in roughly the same place as the factory small or big block. Since I already had the driveline in place from the transmission back, this was a key advantage over other plates with a setback which would require me to move back the transmission, crossmember, and probably shorten the driveshaft.

For accessory drives, I went with the March LS1 serpentine kit with AC (P/N 20060) and the remote P/S reservoir. The GM corvette kit would have been much cheaper, but didn't look as nice and I read that the OEM A/C compressor doesn't cycle correctly for the Vintage Air system I'm running. So I needed a kit with a Sanden compressor. The March kit also included a water pump which I needed, and did not require me to swap out the damper. Two tips for anyone else going the March route on the GMPP LSX block. First, make sure you get the correct "LS7" hub adapter (PN 356). Second, the supplied LS-1 water pump has some clearance issues with the larger LSX timing cover. Solving this required replacing some of the bolts on the back of the waterpump with ones with smaller heads.

I'll post a picture of the installed accessory kit a little later.

Weekendbob

I soon learned that in 1970 Chevelles, Chevy used two types of motor mounts, "Tall and Narrow" or "Short and Wide". The narrow or wide refers to the width of the "ears" of the mount as they slide over the frame mount pedestals. The tall or short refers to the actual height of the mount and can effect how high the engine sits. Mine unfortunately has the "short and wide", which contributed to some oil pan clearance issues. When I first test fit the block, the bottom of the pan was sitting on the frame rail. Not good. Using spacers alone wouldn't work because it changed the geometry of how the mounts fit over the pedestals and then the holes for the cross bolts wouldn't line up. So like it or not, I was going to have to remove the mount pedestals and slide them higher up the frame. Unfortunately I didn't capture any pictures of this process but I basically removed the pedestals and drilled new holes directly above the old ones. This relocated the pedestals about 1/2 inch higher up the frame, but since the frame is angled, it only contributed about 1/8 of an inch in vertical engine lift. The rest of the height adjustment I needed was gained by the aforementioned spacers. This pic shows the hardened spacers I installed between the Edelbrock adapter plates and the Energy Suspension "Short and Wide" motor mounts I ordered.



So between moving the pedestals and adding a little over 1/4 inch of spacers, the motor mount crossshafts lined up and I was able to lift the pan about 1/4 inch off the frame rail. Below is a picture of the space between the pan.



The space is still tight, but I'll keep an eye on it. You might notice the rubber garden hose gasket I superglued to the top of the frame rail so I didn't mar the powdercoat of the oil pan while I was test fitting. I ultimately decided to leave it in just in case of any settling or shifting.

Weekendbob

Engine mounted in the bay, headers and most of the accesory drive installed.



View from the bottom showing no oil pan ground clearance issues.



This last picture was taken after I connected the tranny, which took some doing to get right. I'll talk about what all that involved in my next post.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

One more area to check.. check the steering cross link rod end.. with the steering lock to lock, as they might come in contact with the pan.. this is a common problem. LS1 F-Body pan is less of a problem as compared to other ones (CTS-V, Truck, LS2,etc).. the front of the F-body is not as deep (reason why you have to use a 3/4 windage tray) these others. I am using a CTS-V pan on my Chevelle, but will be using RetroLX pan on my Nova project.

I have posted a few thread or reply on the subject of the two motor mounts in the past. By using a combination of the T/N mounts and S/W frame stand, it will raise the engine a bit. That is what I did. I use the S/W frame stand, narrow them, plus an extra 3/4" and then use spaces/washers to jack the engine back and forth to get then engine centered between the two area that are common problem (Steering pulley and Steering box, and the passenger head and firewall/AC box.