y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

First of all let me apologize in advance for this being such a long post. I have been working on my conversion since March of 2007. Let me give a brief rundown of what I'm building:

1995 Firebird
4.8L out of 2004 Chevy Truck
TH400 out of 1989 Chevy Van
Tech Rods Stand-Alone Wiring Harness
Edelbrock Intake
85mm Throttle Body
Aeromotive Inline Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Summit Fuel Cell

Typical "race car" stuff like no HVAC, radio, back seat, etc....

All the other details really aren't pertinent to my issues.





Issue #1:
I am having a hell of a time getting the starter to engage. If you look at the attached diagram, I have it wired correct to the best of my knowledge. The 10mm post on the solenoid has a wire running to the larger yellow "starter solenoid" wire on the factory '95 Firebird ignition. The 13mm post has a large red wire that connect directly to the battery. I have the larger pink "switched 12v" ignition wire connected to a terminal strip under the steering column. I have my guages, 12v switched ignition stand-alone harness wire, and cut-out switches attached to it.

The TechRods instructions say "Lead for 12-Volt Switched Ignition Power (Pink)--This lead provides ignition power to the fuse block and should be connected to a switched ignition power (12 volts positive when the ignition is on, cranking & the engine running) circuit capable of handling an additional load of 30 amps (about a 14 guage wire). A good option is to use the original coil ignition power circuit. A power relay is another good option to supply the additional load a fuel injection system would add."

Have I misunderstood those directions? I guess what I mean is should I leave that wire attached to the factory 12v switched ignition wire (pink) on the factory ignition? Or should that wire be connected to the factory starter solenoid wire (yellow)

The Techrods harness doesn't include wiring for the starter.

I'm really unsure how to proceed. When I turn the key to "start", I can hear the relays and whatnot under the hood clicking.

I took the starter to AutoZone yesterday to have it tested, and it passed. It just seems to me to be the only thing that is keeping the car from starting. When I turn the key, I don't hear a peep out of it. I tried bypassing the neutral safety switch, and still got nothing. I know for a fact that it is getting juice.


(I have removed the wiring for the car alarm)


Issue #2:
This one made me laugh because I have no idea what's causing it. When I press the brake pedal before turning the ignition key, the fuel pump kicks on. The TechRods wiring harness includes a Gray wire that is specifically for the the positive side of the fuel pump. I have that wire running straight from the harness and to the fuel pump. It is connected to nothing else. I am assuming that it has something to do with a wire incorrectly hooked up to the Brake Switch Signal Input (purple wire) from the TechRods Harness.



The TechRods instructions say "Lead for Brake Switch Signal Input (Purple)--Connect this lead to a normally closed brake switch (this lead should have ignition power until brake pedal is depressed). This lead is vital to proper transmission function. Switches on older vehicles may need to be updated to a newer two position switch that will accommodate the needs of this circuit and the brake light function. This lead is also critical for the Crankshaft Position Variation Learn procedure."

Since I only have two wires coming out of what I believe is the brake signal switch harness, I assume that I should just switch to the other wire? Or do I have something way wrong here?

Thank you very much for reading through all of this! Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Scott

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I'm pretty sure I answered my own question on this one. I have the opposite situation. The wire I hooked this to doesn't have ignition power until the brake pedal is depressed. Therefore, I just need to switch this to the other wire on the brake signal input harness.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Your car should have had a pink wire already that is 12V switched power. That will hook to this -->Lead for 12-Volt Switched Ignition Power (Pink)--. The cars original starter wire should be a 10 gauge purple wire. That's what needs to connect to the small starter terminal. If someone removed that wire from the car, then you need to run another one.
Your gray fuel pump wire should be running to a relay for the fuel pump. It should not go straight to the pump. As for what is causing the pump to kick on when you press the brake pedal, your guess is as good as mine.

Indyjc

iTrader: (1)

Can't help with your qestions, but thats a good looking race car. And I have a question why a 4.8? Not a ls1 or 6.0. Just curious. And If I rememeber right you are from Tipton. Ever go to the square in Noblesville? Good luck.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I have the pink wire hooked up correctly then.

The car's original starter wire is gone. I cut it out when I stripped down the car....not thinking that I would need it again. It's not a problem to run another wire, but my question would be where does it begin? The inside fuse panel, underhood fuse box or somewhere else? I'd go out and look for it around the steering column (where the other ignition wires are) but it's raining!

I know what I did on the fuel pump issue. Yes, I have it tied into a relay. The relay is what is attached to the fuel pump. I thought about what I was going to do all day at work today, and that was the one thing I wanted to correct.......stupid rain

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Thanks for the compliments! My Dad drag raced with a 283 for many years, so that's kind of why I went with the little motor. Plus it's different too.

Yep, I'm from Tipton. I don't get to Noblesville too much anymore, and I've heard you've gotta get to the square pretty much as the downtown workers are pulling out of their parking spots.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I should also add that I removed the purple ignition wire over three years ago, and unfortunately I don't remember how it ran nor did I take any notes on it.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I've been looking through my service manuals for my 2000 'bird, and I am under the assumption that I can tie into the 50A Starter Relay?

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

If it still has the relay, that's where you need to come from with a starter wire.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I finally found where the starter relay is on the car. They call it the "Theft Deterrent Relay". I kept all of the factory wiring that ran to the two relays shown in my photos, so I should be able to tie into the large purple wire and run that to the starter solenoid. Does that sound right?





I'm glad that I took so many photos from the early stages to present.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Sounds about right, as the starter wire was always purple on GM`s. I don`t have the diagrams so I can`t confirm for sure. If they are in an electronic format and you can shoot them to me at LS1GBody@ gmail. com I can take a look and confirm.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Thanks!

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I forgot all about the diagrams at shbox.com. You can tie into the purple wire and it will work, but only if you kept the neutral safety interlock on the shifter and the theft deterrent module. If you have already gutted those then just tie into the yellow wire at that relay, then you don`t have to worry about the theft deterrent but you also will not have a neutral lockout on the starter circuit.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I kept the theft deterrent module, but not the neutral safety interlock since I changed shifters. I do have a neutral safety switch on the new shifter that splices into the "purple" wire that attaches to the starter solenoid.

If I tie into the yellow wire & then splice my neutral safety switch that should work correctly right?

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

If you tie the yellow wire into the neutral safety switch on your new shifter and then from the other side of the neutral safety switch to your starter that will work. The theft deterrent module will not work like that (I`m thinking that won`t be an issue for you, but...)

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Thanks for the help! I was thinking that would work. Hopefully this weekend I'll have it running.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Unfortunately, I'm still not getting the starter to engage. I've tried all the scenarios, and each one gave the same result. Maybe I just need to scrap the factory wiring.

I'm just guessing here, but I think I've removed a key piece of the factory wiring or due to the theft system it's not allowing the starter to engage.

If I just went with a universal ignition switch, could I then bypass my problems and wire it correctly?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/11100...oductId=772090

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

You could, but it shouldn`t be to hard to make it work with the f-body switch.

Do you have a volt meter?
Try cranking the car and see if there is voltage on the yellow wire that you tapped into.
If there is no voltage there, check for +12v on the red wire that goes to the ignition switch.
Does the car crank if you put 12v direct to the starter?

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Went and picked up a universal ignition switch last night & wired it up this morning.

I ran battery power to it, a wire to the accessories & the starter wire. I turn the key and the fuel pump kicks on, the accessories & relays activate but I get nothing when I try to crank it over. That is the same as when I try using the factory f-body ignition switch. I guess at least it's consistent and didn't do something weird

I did try hooking 12v directly to the starter solenoid last week with a small rocker switch. It didn't do anything but smoke at the switch connections. Yes, the switch & wiring was too small but I at least expected something to happen. Could I have a gauge of wiring somewhere that is too small & thereby not allowing the starter to engage?

Is it possible that the starter didn't really "pass" when I had it tested? I watched the guy test it, and the computer said it passed. I guess stranger things have happened.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Didn't have a chance to read all the post in detail but....

I had starter issues when i first started my motor. Test the starter off of the car. Connect the batter to the solenoid[smaller post] and you can watch it pop out. Then once its working, you can connect battery to the bigger post, and nothing should happen untill you connect to the smaller post. Then it should pop out and spin.

Hope that helps