tsnow678

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I am going through and posting some pics and details about my experience from start to finish on the transplant of a LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro. This has probably been done a million times but here goes. I am in the process of finishing the engine hopefully in the next week or so. Just to give you a little background about my car. I have owned it for 16 years. It was originally a 327 powerglide car. Nothing fancy but that all depends on who you are. I rebuilt the 327 with great success and she ran good for 40 year old technology. I had the normal double humps ported 2.02/1.60 valves, Lunati springs and cam, headers, 750 dp, Weiand intake single plane, the entire reciprocating assembly was balanced and it would turn 7,200 rpm with no problems. A year ago I would have thought someone would be crazy to take good ol' chevy iron out and put in a truck engine. Well, after the frustrations of tuning the carb, poor driveability, getting out run by a lot of modern muscle, not counting poor fuel economy I was rethinking my options. After reading some posts on here and reading magazine after magazine about the power potential of the LS series engines I made up my mind that is what I want!!! I built my car sticking to the original car in mind and what I was about to do would go against everything I was for. After driving my car like it was I was dissappointed. The seats that I so loved back in 1988 when I first owned a 69 Camaro was killing my back, the wife was bitching about no A/C, and the constant nagging about the fuel odors blah blah blah I knew it was time for a change. So bear with me as I am slow at all of this. [IMG][/IMG]

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Here is the last drive with the old faithful! One week later she had no drivetrain. [IMG][/IMG]

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Here is what I bought. It is an LQ4 out of a 2003 2500HD Silverado. Bone stock with 98,000 miles on it.[IMG][/IMG]

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I tore the engine down to see what they were made of. Glad I did, found the cam bearings to be shot. All the cam bearings were into the copper. This is not the way i wanted to start out. So I ordered up all new bearings, rings, gaskets etc.[IMG][/IMG]

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Block was completely stripped down, painted, new oil plug in front, cam bearings installed, main bearings were positioned. time to drop the crank in. Might I add that all the journals looked great. Not a blemish one. [IMG][/IMG]

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Crank is in! New GM main cap bolts including new cross bolts. I would have reused the old ones but I researched this on this forum and got mixed feelings on this subject. $88 later I have new bolts. I was opting for studs but thought this engine won't see anything over 6,700 rpms and thats not too much for 6 bolt main studs. I know 7,200 rpms didnt fall apart with 2 bolt mains in my last motor than surely less rpms and a stronger bottom end the stockers will suffice. [IMG][/IMG]

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Next inline was the piston clean up. I used and old ring and broke it in half to clean any goop out of the ring lands. I replaced the old rod bolts (a must) with ARP bolts. I went throught their torque process of 45 ft/lbs two times and then a third and final time. I love the cracked cap design. Piston top surfaces cleaned up with a little carb cleaner and a rag. The cylinder seemed to be in great shape with cross hatching still present. I failed to mention in a previous post that I did hone the cylinders prior to the final cleaning of the block. I used a set of hastings rings that included a moly top ring. [IMG][/IMG]

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Not only are the new rod bolts fatter and do not use the thin metal shim, but they are also longer. They are so long that they almost are flush on the top side of the rod. This can only add strength to the whole assembly. Next was the windage tray. Then its time to flip her over.[IMG][/IMG]

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Cam is in! I used a 236/242 .580/.590 112 LSA. This should give me plenty of power and help my next purchase breath a little. I used a LS2 timing chain on the stock gears. I have a Melling oil pump. I am still tossing around the oil pan. Since I have a rear steer car linkage is a concern so is engine placement. I like the idea of the oil filter included into the pan but do not want the issues of ground clearance with the LH8 pan. I like the Moroso for the oil capacity but do not like the idea of and external filter. Champ pans has a solution but is a bit pricey. I definately do not like the cut and welded pans offered, even though a lot of people use them with great success I just dont. Still tossing the pan thing around in my head. [IMG][/IMG]

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Here is a shot of my new mounts. They are from Nooks and Tranny. Actually they are from Swaptech but are cheaper if you buy them from Nooks. I bought the Energy Suspension urethane mounts also. I like these mounts due to the ability to move the engine into three different locations. Standard, 1" forward, or 1" towards the rear. Right now I have them in the standard location. I will test fit the engine/tranny here and then choose where it sits the best. These mounts are beefy which is good and bad. I have heard horror stories about theses styles 3/8" thick not allowing the mounts to line up correctly. We will see when the time comes. If they are too thick I guess it will be off with the powder coating and onto my surface grinder. I sort of hope standard will work the best because the adapters are interferring with the A/C bracket in a bad way. I am considering moving the A/C compressor anyway to kee[IMG][/IMG]p from having to notch the cross memember. More on that later.

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Here is my latest purchase. Some L92 heads. I almost didnt want to put them on. They are beautiful! I have never owned a new set of heads much less a set of aluminum heads. It only took my local dealer 4 attempts to get my heads in undamaged. Finally a good set came in and I was more than happy to hand over $900 for the set. I also ordered up the offset rockers and new stands while I ordered the heads. With the cam I am running and the weight of these intake valves I opted for the Patriot Extreme springs. [IMG][/IMG]

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Here is a side shot of the beehive versus the new Patriots. Wow what a difference. Look at the difference in the keepers mass alone.[IMG][/IMG]

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The castings are great on these heads. Hardly any flash anywhere. No need to port these heads. They ought to out flow more than I can throw at them.[IMG][/IMG]

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New springs installed. The old lever style compressor wouldnt cut it. I had to borrow a Snap On pnuematic compressor. It would have been worth every dime if I had to buy one of these. Made light work of the spring change.[IMG][/IMG]

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New lifter trays installed with old lifters. I replaced the valley pan and knock sensor grommets. New gasket and attached the wiring harness. I am still debating the use of the LS6 valley pan. If I use a catch can I will probably not use the LS6. I opted for the new lifter guides for 2 reasons. 1 they are cheap insurance that I wont have a lifter turn in its bore and 2 they were cheap. I think they were like $17 for the set of four. [IMG][/IMG]

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The new head gaskets are on waiting on me to crush them with my new heads. I bought these from GM for half the price they wanted for FelPros from the locals. I bought both gaskets tax and all for around $62. I did however buy the head bolts from Advance Auto for about $10 cheaper than GM offered them to me. Glad its on the way or I would have paid the difference. According to dealership Fel Pro makes the bolts for GM along with the head gaskets. So why not go as cheap as possible. Same **** cheaper prices= more parts!!![IMG][/IMG]

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Heads are on! Now we are making progress. I made sure the bolt holes were clean and dry before they seen a bolt. I bought a nifty little tool for these torque to yield piece of **** bolts. It fits onto your torque wrench and helps you to get the angles right. I am pretty good at 90 degrees but 55 degrees would have been a bitch. The tool was like $10 and is made of cheap plastic. Prolly never use it again but it looks cool and most people wont be able to guess what it is. [IMG][/IMG]

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The rear main seal was replaced and a new most important dumbell or barbell was replaced. The dealer didnt service this item on the truck motor but did the LS1. They are the same and cheap. It was like $6. New rear cover gasket installed. Make sure you align the bottom edges where it meets the oil pan before you torque it down. I installed the oil pressure switch and the cam positioning sensor prior to the valley pan. Not neccesary but seemed to be easier for me. [IMG][/IMG]

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Up top is an LS3 intake complete from a 2010 Camaro I purchased off of Ebay with 50 miles on it. Shipped to my house for $277. It came with the intake, injectors, fuel rails, bolts and the rubber gaskets. All like new and in perfect working condition. I am using a single line from the rear mounted regulator so it worked out perfect. The throttle body is a Professional Products 96mm. It came with the TPS, spacers, and gaskets for around $250 shipped. I put the drivers side valve cover on with no problem. New gaskets and grommets there too. The right side on the other hand was a biotch. The offset rockers are all in the way of the baffles inside of the valve cover. So after reading a few threads on here I decided to break out the zip wheel and commenced to cutting until I had the valve cover sit with out a gasket. I turned the motor over several times and no movement meant I would be good with a gasket. I originally was going to take a short cut and go carburetor with the MSD box but after reading an artical in a magazine about how to go fuel injection on a budget. I decided to go with the plan that best suited my needs. I needed a car to run without hiccups. I wanted reliablity. Rock Auto parts has a factory appearing gas tank with baffles and a fuel injection pump good to 550hp. It has AN fittings and a sending unit that works with your stock gage for $337. Beats the hell out of a Rock Valley tank for $1200. Not to say the Rock Valley isnt a show piece, because it is beautiful, but out of my price range. Plus I sort of like the appearance of a stocker. The new tank looks just like the original tank. I bought a 1998-2003 corvette fuel filter/regulator from Rock Auto parts as well. Most people are getting $100+ for these well Rock has them for $35 of course its not GM but its a Wix. And I trust Wix products. My plans are to run a braided line from the rear across at the trunk then down the left side of my car to the intake. I have already bought a T56 and am awaiting some more funds to go ahead and get a clutch etc. I bought a filler panel for my firewall from DSE to hide the hideous original opening for the A/C. I have a lot of work in front of me but one step at a time. I hope this helps some of you out. If you have suggestions feel free. If you have any questions also feel free to ask. I sandblasted the truck pulley tonight and laid some paint on to it. I used my new ARP crank bolt to hold her on. That is the baddest looking bolt I have ever seen. Quality is number one with me and ARP has it. I bought a 2005 GTO water pump and will be making 1/2" spacers hopefully tomorrow. The pulley sits back about 3/8" from where it needs to be but the pulley looks great. Its smooth and doesnt have the threaded end on it. It also exits out of the fron like the F-body pumps do. I will be using a radiator with both upper and lower on the right side. Once I get the water pump on it will be a matter of mocking up an alternator bracket. And maybe relocating the A/Ccompressor. [IMG][/IMG]

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iTrader: (3)

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