Rhino

iTrader: (6)

The site seems a little light on details, but it does have me curious. Anyone have any idea of their baffle setup or what pump they're using?

EDIT: I just called them up. They do have a baffle setup in the tank, but wouldn't go into any details. It's also meant for an external pump. After talking to the guys, I do think it'll work. I'm just not certain that I want to run an external pump.

claytonisbob

iTrader: (1)

What makes this work is that Jet Pump that would fill the cup, letting the main pump, pump out of that. If there was a way to get a jet pump to work, making something similar would be pretty simple. As far as I've run into though, I'd have to run two electric pumps and I've been afraid this would be expensive, less reliable (two pumps that could go out) and it would cause even more heat in the fuel, which I don't want.

bozzhawg

How are they set up?

Bozz

Rhino

iTrader: (6)

Agreed. The only down side that I just looked at is the internal pressure regulation. Would it cause issues trying to run a 2nd external regulator, running the bypass back into this unit? I don't feel that it would, but want to get some additional input.

Anybody run an external regulator on a standard 4th gen?

Jimbo1367

WhAt about running some fuel cell foam in the bucket(Spectra) or in the tank itself? Might keep the gas from sloshing around too much. When I get to the point of installing my Spectra tank, I might try the foam or some other type of diffuser.

sambooka

I am in the same boat as everyone else. 1964 Chevelle. I have been talking with Specta on the phone and "Tanks-to-pans" about this problem. Specta said they would warranty the tank if it is still in the 1 year warranty. Mine was purchased just under a year ago with I notified they of the issue. They do have a 2nd gen pump and now a 3 gen tank. Now to see if they standup to their warranty.

I have also been researching the use of a factory pump/bucket assembly. The height is not my worry, I hope to modify that. I want to know if any of the buckets have the same diameter as the 1964 tank - mine measures 3 1/8 inch hole, 3 1/2 to 3 5/8 sealing surface. Have anyone been able to find a mounting flange so that tank welding would not have to be performed. The use of the OEM bucket would be the best answer. By the way, Spectra is one of the main suppliers of tanks to GM. You would think they would have a sugestion on the bucket.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I have two pieces of the good stuff they measure 8"x8"x4" each if interested. I bought them from Hank Thomas and are good for methanol as well as gas. $15 plus shipping if interested.

bozzhawg

After thinking about this thread some more and talking to TomM the other day, I think the EFI conversion is still new..... When I say new I mean the market for an actual efficient in-tank pump system has grown within the last 5 years or so in correlation to our early gen cars..... I think this thread, has a wealth of ideas that have been thrown around which I cannot concieve why most aftermarket companies would not have the same creative innovation....lol

The Rick's and Valley tanks are nice pieces, but until other companies decide to build a tank and price it competetively, the price will continue to reflect that of a luxary good or item..... We saw this with the LSX swaps in previous years, with the cost of the swaps being a deterent, but now guys are swapping as if they were SBC or BBC gen I or II's.......

When doing the swap lord knows I know that you have to be creative and have to do a lil fabrication and creative massaging to get it to work.... But if this energy can be applied to the ideology of the gas tank, then I don't think it will be that hard.... The only issue now is just deciding what assembly you want to use.....

Bozz

Jimbo1367

I wish I still worked for my old fabrication shop, I'd build my own narrowed and baffled SS tank.

reedld

iTrader: (7)

this thread is awesome! I just bought a 99-02 F body fuel pump. I look fwd to doing this to my 78 LS1 TA...thanks to all who came up with this. The link to 'vetteworks' with the mounting bracket makes this swap even nicer!!I plan on documenting my work with pics and will post them. hopefully this will help a lot of people..spending $500-$1200 for a baffled tank was not in my budget either!!

Rhino

iTrader: (6)

Here's my preliminary plan for my sump. It's essentially a proof of concept at this point. The actual sump will be a little more difficult to fab as it will need to be notched to follow the contour of the tank floor. As soon as I finish up with my suspension I'll do some further work on it.

I never have been a big fan of sharp 90° bends on sumps, so I plan on making 3 of the 4 sides meet the tank at a 45 degree angle. The front of the sump will be vertical so it can be welded in at the very front of the tank.
As far as the top is concerned, I'll recess the tank just as firstgenguy did.

(the images below are based upon this plan)
Side view, front of sump to the left.
Rear view
3/4 overhead, the front of the sump facing down and to the left.

Rhino

iTrader: (6)

This can be of use to anybody using the F-body pump. I was looking for the GM quick connect to AN fitting adapters and ran across these in another thread.


Link

69-er

I finally tried my idea. It's a variation of Spectre's baffle. I spaced the two apart as close as possible to the pump assembly. About 6.5".

The engine was running rough when I tilted the tank to simulate cornering. I tilted it at least 45 degrees and it never stalled until several seconds after I leveled it out.

I don't know if it's from fuel starvation or what. I thought the engine would stall immediately when the sock was uncovered.

bozzhawg

The only issue I see with the 45* angled sides is that provides more area for fuel to travel, so when g-forces and inertia drives the fuel to the side during a turn, the angle will provide more space for the fuel to move away from the pick up and vice versa from left to right.... The other issue is take off or wot throttle when the fuel rushes toward the rear of the tank.... at an 45* angle again more surface area for the fuel to move away from the pick up....

Now to me, it might not be the prettiest but 90* angles walls would be best, less surface area for the fuel to move away from the pick-up......

Here are some examples I drew on my computer:


Now look at example A., you see how the slanted 45* angled walls of the sump provide more surface area and area for the fuel to slosh away from the pump vs a 90* angled walled sump..

Bozz

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

If you make the sump deep enough then you can use a factory style fuel bucket, problem solved.

Rhino

iTrader: (6)

Bozz, I see what you're saying, but the only reason I'm building the sump is for clearance. Like the previous post said, the OEM bucket will take care of 99% of the transient conditions many people are experiencing. These buckets are used on flat bottomed tanks with great results.
My dislike for the 90's isn't as much visual as it is debris potentially puncturing the sides. It seems extremely unlikely that something would contact it, but the 45's won't as easily get hung up on objects as the 90 would.

My first idea was going to be at 90's. I wanted to find a mild steel deep rectangular cake pan to weld to the bottom of the tank. They're cheap, decently thick, pre-fabed stamped steel. Cut the lip off the top and burn it onto the tank. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find something 3" deep, which is the additional space you'll need with the F-body unit. That's what prompted me to think about fabing one up myself. I figured if I'm doing it, I might as well do it the way I want.

Another thing that I should mention is that most people won't want to use the OEM F-body sending unit. It's a 40-200 ohm sender, rather than the correct 0-90 most people will be using. Nice thing is that it's easily removable, and you can then make room for a stock sender if needed.

bozzhawg

Well that makes sense..... I thought it was cosmetics.....lol hell all of em ain't pretty, but it beats $1200.....

Bozz

zamora7

iTrader: (4)

I was thinkning if I bought this tank I would do the opposite of what your plan is. That way if the fuel level is low it wont be able to ride up the slanted surfaces. I don't know if I explained my self right, but I'll try to make a quick picture of it on paint.

zamora7

iTrader: (4)

Here is quick drawing of what I was thinking, red would be the new addition and the black dotted line would be holes to fill the sump but small enough to not let too much fuel out during hard launches or cornering. What do ya think?

Rhino

iTrader: (6)

That would work, What you're doing is increasing the volume of the sump. Any time you increase the volume it will be more effective. I'm simply doing it for additional tank height.
The nice thing about the OEM bucket is that I can get by with a much less effective sump and still outperform the "stock" spectra tank.