Factory camaro alternator question

Boosted One · 11-17-2002, 05:33 PM

Could someone please explain to me what the 4 wires should go to on a factory 98 camaro alternator? It's going in a 64 chevy II, and I'm really not sure how hook it up.

Thanks
Frank

Speedfreaks101 · 11-18-2002, 10:27 AM

Give me till tonight and then I will let you know, need to take a look.

GeorgeC · 11-18-2002, 02:11 PM

Only one wire is actually used, and it's just a +12v field wire (hot when ignition is on).

Boosted One · 11-19-2002, 05:41 PM

thanks guys.

any luck on that wiring info speedfreaks101?

Frank

68LSS1 · 11-19-2002, 06:42 PM

I've got a '98 LS1 and Helms and here's the deal. Only 1 wire is used, pin B on the connector. This will be 12vdc in run and start. I looked at the harness to verify (I haven't modified mine yet) and it had 1 wire on pin B. If your holding the connector with the locking clip up and looking at the alternator side of the plug, it's A,B,C,D, left to right. (And of course you need the positive battery lead).

Speartech · 11-21-2002, 11:09 AM

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but the single wire to the alternator should not be a direct 12 volt line. This is the "lamp" terminal of the regulator and is designed to have a voltage drop across it for proper operation and long life. It was originally designed to have an idiot light between it and 12 volts.
It is NOT the "field" line, as this is internally connected on the F-body alternator.

If you don't want to add a light to your setup (most people don't), you should go to radio shack and buy a 500 ohm resistor and put it in series with that line.

The correct sequence is: Ignition switch 12 volts to one side of resistor; other side of resistor to terminal B of the regulator.

Your alternator will thank you in a couple of years, as it will still be working! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Boosted One · 11-21-2002, 03:05 PM

Thanks for the heads up! I apreciate all the help guys.

Frank

LS1astro · 11-23-2002, 01:06 AM

Do not wire it with 12v directly it WILL burn it out...I learned this the hard way more then once before I was lazy and resorted to an old schoolie alternator <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />

Speedfreaks101 · 11-23-2002, 09:59 AM

<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by Boosted One:
thanks guys.

any luck on that wiring info speedfreaks101?

Frank<hr /></blockquote>Man I am sorry I totally forgot. If you are still having problems PM me.

LS1GMCTruck · 11-23-2002, 08:00 PM

Would all this info apply to the Vette alternator as well? Thanks, Ed <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Speartech · 11-24-2002, 09:43 PM

The Corvette alternator is a little different in that it also brings out the FIELD terminal (terminal C). The FIELD terminal DOES go directly to a switched ignition 12 volts. So the lamp terminal (terminal B) would be wired as described in the above reply I made, and the field would be wired directly to the ignition switch.

Keep in mind, if you are using a Corvette PCM program, both wires are taken care of by the PCM, with no external wiring needed.

Lesrace82 · 01-26-2003, 11:08 AM

John
I have a question on how to wire up a lamp with the 12 volt source for the alternator. I know one leg of the light has to go to a ground, how do you hook up the 12v going in and a 12v going to the alternator?
Thanks
Bill

Speartech · 01-27-2003, 09:10 AM

It just like the sequence I described above, only you use a bulb instead of a resistor. The regulator in the alternator will ground the line when the alternator is off, which causes the light to be on. Then when the alternator turns on, the line is no longer ground (by design) so the bulb goes off.
With it wired up this way, if certain failures take place inside the alternator, the light will come on alerting you to a problem.

John

Lesrace82 · 01-27-2003, 04:15 PM

Would an LED offer the same resistance?

Speartech · 01-27-2003, 06:10 PM

No it won't. It needs to be a light bulb to function properly.

John

GeorgeC · 02-22-2003, 06:11 PM

I love this board!!!!!!! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

While my motor was apart for freshening up, I completely removed the stock insturment panel and made my own using AutoMeter gauges. Today I got the motor back in the car and running, but realized that for some reason the alternator wasn't charging the battery.

I took the alternator to the local parts house and had it tested, and it tested good. Well, I began scratching my head and wondering what the problem could be. I figured it was probably something to do with my removal of the cluster. The factory service manual did offer a little help, but I was still somewhat in the dark. Remembering this thread (that I replied to with false info, sorry about that...), I did some searching and dug it back up.

I quickly made up a jumper and tied two 1K ohm resistors together in parallel, and tested it out. Guess what, the battery charges now!!!

John (Speartech), the info you provided was very very helpful and enlightening. I would have been screwed if not for this board and this thread! Thanks, I owe you the cool refreshing beverage of your choice if we ever meet up in person! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

[ February 22, 2003, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: GeorgeC ]

jeromio · 02-23-2003, 01:49 AM

I had a problem with my motor not turning over. I cleaned all the connections and really cleaned up the grounds - and I also disconnected the alternator. So, that cured the problem and the motor would crank and start.

But then I became fearful of reconnecting the alternator. A reply on another board suggested that the alt could be bad (diode) and cause a major short in the system.

SO, I removed the alt and was hamfistedly tryna check it out. None of the local parts shops can test it (One autozone actually had the test cable in the drawer, I pointed to it, guy said "yeah but it only has 3 leads, the 4th one is blank" - I couldn't convince him to try it anyway). So, I noticed that the main, positive post shows some continuity with the case. That's bad, right? I mean, it's not 100%, but there is some continuity.

Speartech · 06-23-2005, 11:40 AM

I get a lot of questions on how to properly wire up the alternator when using some of the brand X harnesses that give you a bunch of stuff you don't want, and leave out some things you need.

Here's a TTT on this old thread that explains how to hook it up correctly.

Dave_62 · 06-25-2005, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speartech

The Corvette alternator is a little different in that it also brings out the FIELD terminal (terminal C). The FIELD terminal DOES go directly to a switched ignition 12 volts. So the lamp terminal (terminal B) would be wired as described in the above reply I made, and the field would be wired directly to the ignition switch.

Keep in mind, if you are using a Corvette PCM program, both wires are taken care of by the PCM, with no external wiring needed.

Just for clarification, does the field terminal have to be connected to 12V for the Corvette alt to work, or just the lamp terminal like on the F-body alt? I have a Corvette alt for my swap with a F-body harness and wanted to wire it right the first time. John, thanks for trolling the boards and keeping us all straight.

Slow 346 · 06-25-2005, 11:10 AM

I had a buddy of mine convert my factory Alt. to a one wire setup. Works perfect. Now I just have to single big lead off the bach....no wires to the regulator.