I gave up on my factory 1991 vette cluster(frack) every working right and jumped on some autometer gauges. Got the tach all mounted and set up and it didn't work. No needle bounce no nothing. I was using the tach output on my 2004 GTO pcm to feed the signal but it just didn't work.
I saw some posts on the forum here talking about a pull-up circuit and how that would make it work fine. But I didn't really understand for sure how to do it. I PM'ed Parish and got the scoop. I ran a wire from a switched 12v source to a 680 ohm resistor and jumpered into my tach output wire between my pcm and my tach. Keyed the ingnition and the tach reads just like it should have all along. NICE!
Thanks, Parish! I would have been pulling my gauges out and really pissed had I needed to send it in. Instead I just used the forum and spent $5 with good ol radio shack
__________________
Currently running a 2004 GTO 6-spd.
New project - 1948 Chevy Pickup - Cammed 5.3, Baby cam, Built 4L60E w/ Yank 3000
Had a 2004 H2- KB 2.8 Big Bore, Iron 402, AFR 225's, Yank 3000. 6800 lb race weight. 1/4 mile: 13.67 @ 97.5. Sponsored by LS2 Port Works
__________________ If everythings coming your way.....you're in the wrong lane!
67 Chevy II, Heidts, '99 LS1 / T56, '79 Trans-Am 3.73 - 12 bolt w/ disk brakes,'84T/A tilt wheel, '95 Grand Prix seats(front and rear),'67 Vette hand brake, '95 GP accelerator pedal & cable,front air intake and still adding
__________________ If everythings coming your way.....you're in the wrong lane!
67 Chevy II, Heidts, '99 LS1 / T56, '79 Trans-Am 3.73 - 12 bolt w/ disk brakes,'84T/A tilt wheel, '95 Grand Prix seats(front and rear),'67 Vette hand brake, '95 GP accelerator pedal & cable,front air intake and still adding
Parish did his on a truck with a couple of things that were running off the tach signal that were dropping the signal too low.
I did mine on a 2004 GTO pcm with nothing but a tach running on it.
John B (above) says the LS2's and LS7's need it too.
Anyone else got anything to add? I've no idea how many platforms this is needed on.
__________________
Currently running a 2004 GTO 6-spd.
New project - 1948 Chevy Pickup - Cammed 5.3, Baby cam, Built 4L60E w/ Yank 3000
Had a 2004 H2- KB 2.8 Big Bore, Iron 402, AFR 225's, Yank 3000. 6800 lb race weight. 1/4 mile: 13.67 @ 97.5. Sponsored by LS2 Port Works
Thank you. I had the same problem with my Ultra Lite Tach and my 2005 GTO LS2 set up. Did what you did and boy PROBLEM solve. This site and guys like you make life so much better.
seems hit or miss on the ls1 pcm too. some 3rd gen f-bodys clusters work, some just work part of the time others do nothing until you add the resistor. it all on how sensitive the tach is.
__________________ 1989 Formula350
(1998 SS LS1/6-SPD/S60)
I gave up on my factory 1991 vette cluster(frack) every working right and jumped on some autometer gauges. Got the tach all mounted and set up and it didn't work. No needle bounce no nothing. I was using the tach output on my 2004 GTO pcm to feed the signal but it just didn't work.
I saw some posts on the forum here talking about a pull-up circuit and how that would make it work fine. But I didn't really understand for sure how to do it. I PM'ed Parish and got the scoop. I ran a wire from a switched 12v source to a 680 ohm resistor and jumpered into my tach output wire between my pcm and my tach. Keyed the ingnition and the tach reads just like it should have all along. NICE!
Thanks, Parish! I would have been pulling my gauges out and really pissed had I needed to send it in. Instead I just used the forum and spent $5 with good ol radio shack
anyone have a small diagram on this? do I run 12v to the resistor then to tie the other end of the resistor to the tach siginal?
Yep, hook one end of the resistor to a wire that is IGN hot (+12v in the start and run positions)
Then "T" the other end of the resistor into the wire that goes from pin 10 on the red PCM connector to your tach.
__________________ 85 El Camino SS black and silver, factory buckets.
5.3L/4l60E 3.73 posi 1980 Chevette 4.3L v6/4l60e www.fquick.com/G-Body
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodder
"possible" is a relative term around here... anythingis possible. It's "possible" to put a whole K3500 4x4 dually truck rolling chassis under a brand new Mini body. Is it reasonable? No. Does it make sense? No. Is it possible? Yes.
I had posted here several months ago after I got my V8 MK3 Supra running that one issue I could not solve was the tach. It only worked when the car was shifted into reverse.
Here is my setup:
Engine: 2003 LM7 5.3L
Harness: 1998 F-body six speed
PCM: 1998 F-body, reflashed by HP Tuners
Tach adapter: Baker Electronix module (diagnostic test OK when disconnected, fails when connected to PCM)
Tach: Stock 1988 Toyota Supra
Trans: TKO600 manual
I figured this had something to do with the auto to manual swap I did but everything else worked, and the tach is getting a power feed while the engine is running. It works accurately when shifted into reverse, so a weak signal may well explain the problem. I was going to look into putting a resistor in the power feed to it to duplicate the b/u lamp load.
When I used the same stuff when I built the RX7 (exceptions- tach was a Racepak panel, harness was a converted 1998 A4, and motor was an L33), the tach works with no problems at all.
I will try the above and see if this helps with the Supra tach problem.
Thanks for posting this, yet another reason why this is a great forum.
EDIT-
I drew a diagram to simplify this. I will be giving it a try on my car & will update with results.
EDIT #2
Installed it today & the tach works great. Big thumbs up to the 99 cent solution to a long time bug.
__________________ Foreign modified: 1975 280Z LT1/T56 * 1988 Supra LM7/TKO600 * 1995 Trans Am LT4 Turbo/T56 * 2009 Challenger R/T (hey, the TA & Challenger were imported from Canada ) Domestics: 1965 & 66 Chevy Corvairs * 1991 Dodge Daytona C/S * 1998 Dodge Durango 4x4 Making the world a better place one car at a time by installing Chevy V8s into foreign cars.
SOLD: 1994 BMW 553iT L33 Turbo/T56 * 1988 RX7 L33/T56
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 02-24-2008 at 02:26 PM..
Reason: Problem solved
Hey everyone I'm new to this site, I wish I had found it when I started my swap but now its near finished. I swapped an 05 l33/4l60e into a 91 silverado. I 've been driving it for a few weeks now but am still trying to get some kinks worked out. The main one being the tach. I'm using a cluster from a 98 silverado and I'm wondering if wiring in a resistor will fix my problem. So far everyone seems to be using an aftermarket tach set to 4 cylinder mode.Will wiring in a resistor work with my factory v8 tach? I have an autometer tach adaptor that just arrived today but I'd rather not use it if I can get away with just a resistor. Thanks
The resistor 12v+ is only to boost the signal strength enough to excite the tach and make it work. The pulse frequency that comes off LS engines is 4cyl so the resistor trick does not affect this in any way whatsoever. In short you still need to either use a tach that can be set to accept 4cyl pulse or use a box such as you describe to change the tach out frequency from 4cyl to 8cyl or your stock tach will not read properly.
__________________ ------- Six years strong! In many fast cars and ------- NOT ONE BREAKAGE YET!
You can re-program the PCM to give an 8 cylinder output for the tach. Speartech did mine that way.
Pat
__________________ 1953 Studebaker Starlight Coupe Custom, 2000 LS1, LS6 manifold, valve springs & PCV, ETC, Sanderson Headers, 4L60E, Yank Stealth 2800. 68 Nova Subframe, Ford 8 inch, 3.80 posi. 13.68 @ 102, I need traction!
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Thanks guys, I guess I'll just go ahead and use the tach adapter.
BTW if I were to have the signal changed in my PCM would I still need to add a resistor to boost the signal?
Ok... so now I'm having the tach not working issue. Autometer adjustable tach w/ 07 5.3 in 84 C10. Set to four cylinder mode and needle jumps when cranking during start but that's it. So am I reading this right that the resistor is so that you can reuse a factory type tach? I thought setting the tach to 4cyl mode would allow it to work if its an aftermarket tach. If I do still need the resistor w/ my Autometer Tach, I assume I still need to set it to 4 cyl mode. This correct?