s&p oil pan, carshop adaptor plates,they come bare metal just need to be painted,same as other more pricey plates, no fuel system yet but rock valley? seems like a good choice ,i'd like to use a stock tank with a new pump setup.progress is slow, just sent out my steering box for a close ratio rebuild,bought & waiting for a set of camaro ls1 ex- manifolds & building some contraption in my garage to lift the body on and off without using jacks, cinderblocks 4x4s,2x4s,ratchet tie downs,pipes & come-a-longs. JOHN
John, which car shop adapter plates did you use? I'm looking at putting a L99/4L80 into a '67 Malibu. I'd like to not modify the tunnel if possible.
rpol78,
you aren't going to get a 4l80 in a '67 without at least messaging some metal. And if you want to be able to remove/install the trans and engine as one unit with heads and oil pan installed, you will be modifying the tunnel. I modified my tunnel quite a bit on my '67 Malibu, John minimized it with his meticulous work and fittings.
If I am wrong John, please say so.
John, are you able to install your engine and trans together?
Rob is correct , I never tried to swing the motor and trans in together.Also I used a modified f body pan which has or had the most clearence at the time.It misses the tie rods by 1/4" at the corners.When I had the floors done I had the bodyman give me a little extra room in the tunnel , although upon close inspection it doesnt look like there is any difference, when the old floor was in I still had clearence- about a 1/4" at its closest. You will also have to come up with a way to come out of the trans for the cooler lines , I had some flare fittings brazed onto the 4l80 fittings. the plates are the S&P style plates , I can check the part # if you need,and I used 2 sets of spacer plates that come with the energy suspension mounts between the frame mounts and the engine mount. I would suggest enlarging the tunnel. JOHN
John, I've been reading through your post and Kevin sent me a PM also. It looks like both of you did minimal mods to the tunnel. I have an F body pan that I was planning on using as a core for an S&P modified pan. I assume your using their A body pan.
On the mounts if you could get the part number of the car shop brackets I'd appreciate that. Does the bottom center bolt screw through the plate and into boss on the block or does it go into the plate only?
I am planning on an L99 out of a 2010 Camaro with a 4L80. On the L99 I'm planning on disabling the AFM/DOD and keeping the VVT. Right now I'm thinking about the MAST contoller with their stage II cam. I picked up the '67 Malibu from my brother who's owned it since the '70s. I've got the engine and an SRTA 4L80 with both of the fittings up front. I'm planning on boxing the frame using an El Camino frame as a donor for the boxing pieces. It's been tweeked or I'd just cut the back section on it.
the 66/67 has a smaller trans tunnel. i had to massage mine quite a bit to even fit just a 4L60e but I also have the motor as far back as possible. Next time I pull the motor i'm going to weld and enlarge it. You *may* be able to get away without mods if you mount your motor pretty far forward. Just something to think about I suppose. Not sure if you want that much engine hanging out in front that much though.
On the S&P motor adapter plates, there's a template of it in the FAQ section.
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You *may* be able to get away without mods if you mount your motor pretty far forward.
It looks like John's is about as far back as you'd want to go (i.e. 3/4" RH head to firewall) and he was able to minimize tunnel mods. And Kevin's is about 2 1/2" or 2 3/4" and also he was able to minimize tunnel mods. In both cases it appears at a minimum the front clip was removed to put the engine in. So by John's build it looks like you can get the engine set back and still minimize tunnel mods.
John/Kevin are you able to put/pull the engine and tranny together? If so does the front clip have to be off to get the right angle? How high is the car off the ground to allow for clearance?
I assume John was able to mount his a little lower due to using the modified F body pan verses Kevin used the LH8 pan. Of all the pans it seems that the modified F body has the shortest front height and would provide the most clearance around the tie rod ends.
You are correct about the f body pan having the most clearence up front. My motor and trans were installed seperately with no front clip on . I doubt i would be able to swing it out together nor would I with the firewall cleaned and painted . The part # from carshop is 2349 - ls1 plates. 39.95$ . the plates can be mounted 2 ways, .it will be clear once you get them and mock it up how they install , I"ll see if i have any better pics for you . JOHN
I use S&P plates and I swing both together in one shot. I also S&P modified pan. just put the car on 4 jack stand ,it's doesnt have to be really high to get the motor and tranny in
John, That helps. It looks like the car shop mount brackets are like the S&P brackets that don't move the engine back 1" further. The bottom center bolt goes through the mount and plate to the engine block, correct?
Do you have the part number for the energy suspension mounts you used? Did you have to grind the bulge on the back plate to get it to mount flat on the carshop plate? By the way the early C3 Corvettes, the big block A/C cars, used a spacer under the mounts. It is in a V shape so it may be able to clear the buldge on the energy suspension plates.
How much clearance did you have where the front transmission line comes out? I've got an early style 4L80 where both lines come out at the front.
I have 4L60E .I dont know if that is alot smaller than 4L80E .I just recently pull mine back out cause the starter bolt bent and crack a piece off the motor ,so I have to pull it back out in one piece to weld it back. I also use braided line for tranny line with 45 degree angle to clear the tunnel
Ted I used the tall / narrow mounts . I also used 2 sets of spacer plates or 2 on each side , i had 2 sets because i bought both the tall mounts and the short .I drilled the bump off 1 plate on each side so the other plate would fit into it making the 2 plates sit flat onto eachother so regardless of how you do it you need to get it to the right height . some guys space the frame mounts up , and as far as the frame mounts i user the shallow ones shown on one of my earlier posts and drilled new holes for them ,and on the pass side i had to slightly grind the frame mount to fit better by the small hump on the frame. JOHN
Shawn (of old BRP fame) is now taking orders for a custom pan. Seems to have F-body pan-like qualities but a full 5 qtrs instead of the 4+ on S&Ps modded version.
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