The custom ones! JK. I haven't heard of any that really sets the engine back far...or ones that are adjustable. I figuered i would try my transdapt ones and if they didn't fit i would have some custom made for a small amount of $. Anyone using S&P mounts...if so, does it put the LSX in the stock location? My transdapt ones seem to be based of their design. Has anyone heard of any adjustable ones?
__________________ LS1 EL CAMINO SWAP!- AFR 205's 59cc with .40 cometic , YT Ultralite 1.7 non-adj., G5X3 234/242 .598/.610 112+4 LSA , F.A.S.T. 90/90, ASP Pulley, Schoenfeld LT's, Built TH400 Art Carr Auto/manual Valve body, fuddle 3800 nitrous stall, 3.73's, 3" True Duals, Hurst Quarter Stick, 8.5" Grand National Rear (Auburn posi, Tom's Kick Ass 30 spline Axles), Magnafuel protuner 525 pump, Jazz 16Gal fuel cell w/ sump, Ford 42lb green tops. Near future plans...notching my frame for bigger meat!
The Schoenfelds will not fit unless the motor moves back 1.5 to 2 inches. I'm using F-Body headers and have to message them on the passenger side the same way as SilverBullet73.
I'm thinking of trying these, I have a shoenfield header on the driver side fits great passenger didnt work though....How much or how big of dent you put in the tube to make it fit on the f-body headers? I looked at silver bullet pics hard to tell...
On silver bullets pics it looks like the tube is nearly "massaged" to half diameter like how the longtubes on my sbc were when I got the car. Is there a proven combo that allows for not having to adjust the primaries? Like which mounts and headers just slide in? Im not adverse to doing a little clearance work but would like to avoid it if possible.
Here is a link to some lsx motor mounts that are suppose to push the engine back as far as possible when turned upside down...which would probably make the Schoenfeld headers a direct bolt-on...here's the pic and info from the site.
General Motors vehicles are known for their versatility when it comes to swapping parts from chassis to chassis. The introduction of the LSX engine abruptly halted the ease of interchangeability between muscle cars and modern cars. Today the LSX engine swap is a very popular swap in the Pro-Touring community, but until recently it required serious fabrication to complete. ATS tackled this obstacle by machining up a set of aluminum engine adapters to locate the older style three-bolt engine mounts, to the modern four-bolt engine block. By flipping the engine mounts upside down, the LSX sits lower in the chassis, and as far back against the firewall as possible to promote good weight distribution and improve center of gravity. The plates allow a direct bolt in of an LSX engine into the engine bay of most GM muscle cars, and include all needed hardware, and optional polyurethane Energy Suspension engine mounts.
Note: Factory oil pans and A/C locations will not fit into chassis without modification or replacement
- Lightweight aluminum adapter plates allow bolt in of LSX engine in optimal
chassis location
- Polyurethane engine mounts resist oil, heat and vibration
- Comes pre-assembled with grade 8 hardware and black hard coating
__________________ LS1 EL CAMINO SWAP!- AFR 205's 59cc with .40 cometic , YT Ultralite 1.7 non-adj., G5X3 234/242 .598/.610 112+4 LSA , F.A.S.T. 90/90, ASP Pulley, Schoenfeld LT's, Built TH400 Art Carr Auto/manual Valve body, fuddle 3800 nitrous stall, 3.73's, 3" True Duals, Hurst Quarter Stick, 8.5" Grand National Rear (Auburn posi, Tom's Kick Ass 30 spline Axles), Magnafuel protuner 525 pump, Jazz 16Gal fuel cell w/ sump, Ford 42lb green tops. Near future plans...notching my frame for bigger meat!
On silver bullets pics it looks like the tube is nearly "massaged" to half diameter like how the longtubes on my sbc were when I got the car. Is there a proven combo that allows for not having to adjust the primaries? Like which mounts and headers just slide in? Im not adverse to doing a little clearance work but would like to avoid it if possible.
I had to dent the tube to about half the diameter of the pipe. I know another member here, his name is rickbat, used these headers and did not have to clearance as much as I did, so it may depend on differences between car to car. I do need a better solution in my case so I may get mine modded to fit. From looking at the schoenfeld pics and using the header mounting bolt holes as a reference to where my engine sits, it doesn't look like the shoenfelds will fit without removing the ac box(rearmost tubes seem to be a problem). I may purchase a set to verify this. It may be a while until I can verify this since I'm on a tight budget right now. If I come across anything, I'll keep you guys posted.
__________________ 06 Silver TBSS, tuned, homemade cai, resonator delete 330/334 to all 4. 85 Monte SS LS2 Rossler built 4l60e, Ford 9" rear. 365/367@ the wheels. 11.923@114.47 stock internals! TSP cam and heads coming soon! http://community.webshots.com/user/lt1jmz
I had to dent the tube to about half the diameter of the pipe. I know another member here, his name is rickbat, used these headers and did not have to clearance as much as I did, so it may depend on differences between car to car. I do need a better solution in my case so I may get mine modded to fit. From looking at the schoenfeld pics and using the header mounting bolt holes as a reference to where my engine sits, it doesn't look like the shoenfelds will fit without removing the ac box(rearmost tubes seem to be a problem). I may purchase a set to verify this. It may be a while until I can verify this since I'm on a tight budget right now. If I come across anything, I'll keep you guys posted.
well i have the shoenfields and they fit great on the drivers side...I have a non air box on my car so im not sure on using them with a air car....the first tube hit the crossmember so they wouldnt work on mine..I ordered a set of pacesetter today for a f-body hope they work theyll be here tommorrow...
I know another member here, his name is rickbat, used these headers and did not have to clearance as much as I did,
Rickbat used the F-body headers and my motor mounts for his installation since my mounts most closely mimic the original SBC engine location (5/8" rearward for the stock location).
Rickbat used the F-body headers and my motor mounts for his installation since my mounts most closely mimic the original SBC engine location (5/8" rearward for the stock location).
Sorry John! I forgot to mention that I used you're motor mounts too!
__________________ 06 Silver TBSS, tuned, homemade cai, resonator delete 330/334 to all 4. 85 Monte SS LS2 Rossler built 4l60e, Ford 9" rear. 365/367@ the wheels. 11.923@114.47 stock internals! TSP cam and heads coming soon! http://community.webshots.com/user/lt1jmz
Sorry John! I forgot to mention that I used you're motor mounts too!
Not to worry
Quote:
Is there a set of headers that work well with Johns mounts? I'm curious and I have'nt seen a clean application yet.
The F-body set-up that Rick & Silverbullet73 used is about as close as it gets (as far as I know) and the difference may be vehicle to vehicle variance Mfg tolerance at GM since my mounts are manufactured to within 0.08" tolerances.
[quote=The F-body set-up that Rick & Silverbullet73 used is about as close as it gets (as far as I know) and the difference may be vehicle to vehicle variance Mfg tolerance at GM since my mounts are manufactured to within 0.08" tolerances.[/QUOTE]
So they are using headers made for 4th Gen F-bodies? Or F-body manifolds?
I'm out of town now so I don't have access to my pictures, however, this view from my webpage shows the prototype mounts which have the exact same mounting location as the production version of the mounts with the only difference being this pic shows the upper portion of the steel F-body mounts cut & welded to my mounting plates versus the 1/4" "U" shaped steel that I use today for the production version of the mounts. I think you can get the idea!
Here are some pics on the 1998 Hooker LTs with 3" Torque Tech exhaust.
Just had to put a small ding on the driver’s side header for the steering shaft. Passenger side header hits on the frame rail but you can flatten it enough to minimize rubbing.
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Rick B.