The G-Body Swap Thread - Page 5

rickbat · 10-09-2007, 09:22 PM

Pictures of John B motor mounts. Worked perfect BTW...

2Aspire · 11-23-2007, 05:30 PM

Just curious if anyone knows what considerations need to be made for cruise to function with an LS2.

I have an LS2 that I am putting into a 86 SS Monte and wanted to get a better idea of what is needed regarding specific trans types/year ( 4L60E,4L70E?) w/ speed input sensor, Im assuming, for cruise to be functional with the drive by wire set-up.

Additionally, I have heard this can be achieved using the stock cruise activation on my column but couldnt find details of how to make it happen.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

deuce_454 · 11-24-2007, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLWN1

Whch mounts move the engine farthest back?

I cut a pair of F-body mounts and made some plates to bolt to the chassis (just like the bzdel mounts are essentially made)... but ill set everything in the car before i weld them in... so they are essentially "custom-setback" i plan on modifying the heaterbox so the f.body pan clears the x-member...

2Aspire · 11-26-2007, 11:06 PM

I have the 05 GTO LS2

Rick, since you have the alternator very close if not the same to where I have mine Im wondering if you had any trouble with this position?

Thanks,

Matt

MREGW · 12-01-2007, 11:42 PM

i used johnb mounts and hooker a body long tube conversion headers. i didn't have to cut any tubes out. but i did have to heat them and bend the collectors down. the drivers side will not go on at all without moving the collector down. the passenger side goes in like it was made for it but i will put the exhaust up too close to the floor. so my exhaust guy moved it down also.
they will work great if you're gonna run a manual trans. but if you run a column shifter like me be prepared to make your own shift linkage too.

2Aspire · 12-02-2007, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MREGW

i used johnb mounts and hooker a body long tube conversion headers. i didn't have to cut any tubes out. but i did have to heat them and bend the collectors down. the drivers side will not go on at all without moving the collector down. the passenger side goes in like it was made for it but i will put the exhaust up too close to the floor. so my exhaust guy moved it down also.
they will work great if you're gonna run a manual trans. but if you run a column shifter like me be prepared to make your own shift linkage too.

Thats awesome!! Heck I remember, even with a 350 and hooker long tubes that were made for that application, I had to heat and bend the shift linkage rod that came off of the column as it would rest on the header if you didnt.

Any pictures would be appreciated as i too have the column shifter. Interested to see the overall fit as well.

Thanks.

jerrycad472 · 12-03-2007, 02:53 PM

MREGW, I would love to see pictures of the Hooker A-Body LS1 Conversion headers. I am using the John B Mounts as well. I have not seen anybody use the A-Body Headers on a G-Body yet, but it makes sense with the Chassis being so close. You did not have to flatten any tubes? How much did you have to bend them down to get the angle to clear the Floor Pans?

Roller406Bu · 12-03-2007, 09:07 PM

I used LS1 f-body headers on my malibu with no major problems..

MREGW · 12-04-2007, 09:48 AM

i don't have any good pics from underneath the car. tried to get some with cell phone the didn't come out. only have a few from the top. also with cell. i heated all four tubes just after the bend and before the collector. and figure it was atleast 3" or so. but it seemed like a mile lol! but i didn't have to flatten any tubes at all. i could've use a dimple on the 3rd tube on the drivers side for the steering joint but it looked like it would clear. you car feel it tap sometime but it hasn't caused any steering problems. and the linkage is gonna have to be fabbed. i dont really see any way around that.

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MREGW · 12-04-2007, 10:04 AM

sorry about the pics. like i said only got my cell phone cam.( good camera stolen!) but this is how it looks. tight nut nothin rattles or touches. well except the steering column issue i mentioned. and like i said, a slight dimple will cure that. but since my exhaust guy welded the system solid and i haven't had any problems steering i'v left it alone.

jerrycad472 · 12-04-2007, 12:44 PM

Thanks for the feedback and pictures.

Verz · 12-11-2007, 01:20 AM

Ive got a line on a 01 6.0 80k for ~$800 and by using my 2004r looks like i might be able to keep the cost under 4k for the swap.

ZacLS1 · 12-12-2007, 05:48 PM

5 mpg

2Aspire · 12-12-2007, 11:01 PM

Boy I'll tell you, I dont know about you guys, but that really did it for me.

I said to myself..5mpg?

Then it hit me!! All of the sudden, like a ton of bricks!!
The answer to all the G-body conversion questions is right there in this simple comment. Simply brilliant.

WRXINTX · 12-13-2007, 05:42 PM

Sorry to be a NEWB here guys, but I have a few questions I was hoping to have answered....

I have an 82 Buick Regal...

I will be using a 1999 5.3L truck engine

A. WHat accessory drive setup will work on this engine in this car without hood mods?

B. What brand of conversion mounts will work the best

C. I do not plan on using headers, Is it true that the 2000+ F-body manifolds will work?

D. IF I have to use a different accessory setup, I assume I will have to change the intake and fuel rails also??? or will the truck manifold and injectors work???

E. What flexplate or adapter setup will I use on the rear of the engine if I am adapting it to a 200-4R tranny with an BOP pattern?

F. Can I reuse the stock wiring harness and computer or am I better off with an aftermarket wiring harness or having mine converted?

G. Will I have to change the computer or have it tuned to eliminate the VATS and how will it read a speed sensor if there isn't one off of the 200-4R?

H. Will the truck accessories clear the Steering box and will the 5.3L power steering pump work with the stock steering box?

I. What oil pan setup will work and does it depend on the engine mounts used?

Sorry to be such a pain with this, but I have read so many swap threads and info, and none specifically say what will or won't work.....

Thanks in advance for all the help!!!

RYNO

jerrycad472 · 12-13-2007, 10:51 PM

First Check out John B's web site. It will answer a lot of your questions.
http://home.earthlink.net/~bzdel/ John sells the Engine Mounts for the Swap, modifies the F-Body Oil Pan and sells an Air Condition Compressor relocation kit. Nice guy to deal with.

There are several guys running truck motors on here, so hopefully some of them can give you better answers with regards to using the truck accessories, I believe the altnerator is too high to clear the hood, but someone may have found ways around it.

The F-Body accessories work well with the John B mounts except that you have to move the air conditioning compressor. I just dropped my motor in with John's mounts and everything seems to fit well.

I am pretty sure the F-Body Exhaust manifolds will work. (I will have a set of 2000's to sell once I am sure my headers will work if you are interested)

I am not sure about the trans adapter, might be better off just trading your BOP pattern trans for one with the Chevy pattern. Some 200r4's are dual bolt pattern so check yours before invest in a new one.

Some guys modify their own stock harness. Speartech is the place that everyone seems to recommend for modifying harnesses and reprogramming PCMs. The owner is a regular here. If you call them they can explain the VATS, etc. But you will need some reprogramming.

I have not gotten to the steering box yet, but you can connect the 5.3 pump to the stock steering box. I believe you have to change the lines or use some adapters as the fittings are different. John B's website walks through what you need to do here.

Pan Choices are F-Body, Truck or aftermarket. Most say the truck pan is too deep and will have ground clearance issues. A lot will have to do with your ride height. Some guys run the stock truck pan. I think some modify it to shorten it. The F-body generally needs to be modified slightly to clear the cross member. (Some people also notch the cross member). I am not sure about the aftermarket ones. My concern with them is that the Oil Pan is supposed to be structrual on the LSX engines. The factory pans are pretty thick cast units. I am not sure how good the aftermarkets ones are.

Bottom line is that there are a lot of options and not all will work well together. Best thing to do is go through the couple of G-Body Threads here and look for the guys who have 5.3 and 6.0 Truck motors and PM them to see what they combination they used and see which one works best for you. You will find people are really helpful here.

I will shut up now and let the experts correct me!

CRCRFT78 · 01-11-2008, 11:11 AM

Any updates from anoyone?

BLWN1 · 01-11-2008, 11:12 AM

yeah, f body pickup doesnt work with the moroso pan.....

Verz · 01-18-2008, 02:27 AM

How much under dash wiring modification is needed? Who did everybody get to do their wiring harness? Did you splice into the stock fuse panel or did you incorporate the donor vehicle's fuse panel?

LS1MCSS · 01-18-2008, 05:29 AM

There is very litle to do to the factory wiring, unless you add an aftermarket speedometer. I used an aftermarket fuse panel that my local parts store keeps in stock. The wiring harness is easy to modify for the swap. There are a couple of different routes you can go for a VSS. Jagsthatrun has two different ones you can use, but one is only a four pulse per rev. EFI Live can only go down to 10 ppr when you start tuning so you would have to tune with HP Tuners if you use that VSS.