Any GM part numbers for this pan? and this is a dumb question but I have not decided on LS1 or an LS2. Won't most parts interchange between the two? IE: Motor mounts, oil pan etc etc?
Dan
__________________ 1956 Belair 2 door Hardtop project with an LS1
1965 SWB Big Window C-10 (soon to be LS1 powered)
I was considering using an aftermarket oil pan to help with clearance issues. However, I was concerned about the aftermarket pans not providing structural strength to the engine block. I would assume GM chose a cast pan for a reason. If the pan were not needed to provide structural strength to the block, GM would have made it out of stamped steel. Does anyone know if this assumption is correct? Do the aftermarket pans, such as the Canton P/N 13-274A or the Autokraft pans, provide structural support to the block?
I think that GM uses cast pans mainly for noise suppression. The blocks on the LSx engines use deep skirts and crossbolted main caps. I seriously doubt that the pan would take away enough rigidity to become an issue. This is just my opinion.
I was considering using an aftermarket oil pan to help with clearance issues. However, I was concerned about the aftermarket pans not providing structural strength to the engine block. I would assume GM chose a cast pan for a reason. If the pan were not needed to provide structural strength to the block, GM would have made it out of stamped steel. Does anyone know if this assumption is correct? Do the aftermarket pans, such as the Canton P/N 13-274A or the Autokraft pans, provide structural support to the block?
Thanks.
LS1 xjs
From what I have seen you are correct on this LS1 XJS. Have read in a number of places, quotes from GM engineering folks, that the pan is designed to be a stressed member of the engine assembly and is certainly an integral and critical component in the trans/block/front & rear cover setup. I recall that even the shop manual may mention this. ("Oil Pan Alignment and Torque Critical...")
It is an incredibly stiff pan. It would have been much cheaper to punch one out of sheet metal.
Even the pressed steel parts bolted into some of the pans - i.e. the F Body oil return tray, are heavy duty items, much thicker and stiffer than they need to be to simply return oil. Cast in ribs are solid too. All a result of the FEA modelling they do on designs these days to get maximum strength and stiffness from minimum metal, weight, and cost.
I posted a question in the Gen IV section regarding the special oil pressure regulator installed in DoD/AFM 5.3 engines. Can I get a little help? Would truly appreciate it. I gotta wife who would love to hear her engine fire but this is a big stumbling block.
I posted a question in the Gen IV section regarding the special oil pressure regulator installed in DoD/AFM 5.3 engines. Can I get a little help? Would truly appreciate it. I gotta wife who would love to hear her engine fire but this is a big stumbling block.
Did you get an answer on this?
FYI - DOD pressure regulator in a GTO style pan for Holden DOD equipped motor (though DOD not used).
It regulates pressure to the top end of the motor to 55-75 psi. (including cam and main bearings.)
Can only deduce that this is due to higher volume oil pump being fitted for DOD, and the pressure limits on the DOD valves when closed dictate regulation to 55-75psi, but need the increased flow when opening.
If you never get over 75psi, then no real issue....except for those frozen mornings....next winter.....
That is 3 pressure regs/reliefs in one engine...oil pump reg, DOD reg, filter bypass reg.
For the DoD it looks as if I'll just have to install the threaded oil pressure relief valve (nearly identical to the GTO above) into the truck pan at the location shown in the photo. A little machining of a flat surface, drilling and tapping and I should be good.
I used an F-body pan in my LH6 Volvo. I NEVBER even gave that valve a second look. Have had NO issues with too much oil pressure. I'm sure on a very cold morning it could be a problem. The OTHER thing you could do is lower the RPM vs. COLD engine temp when you reflash the ECM to limit the engine RPM until the oil warms up. {B5203} in EFIlive.
so what are iour options for fbody guys, will the caddy pan work?
The caddy pan works. The drain plug moves to the rear but you can access it, at least on my M6. I swapped the oil filter tube over from my f-body pan and can still use the "big" filter. You will need the CTS tube and dipstick for correct oil level readings.
diptick - 12584737
tube - 12584738
__________________ 1999 Trans Am M6 Mecham/Custom Paint Click for website
F1A boosted LSX 428, All of the parts HERE
New to the Gen III motors. I'm putting one in an 89 Landcruiser and have clearance issues the pan. It's about 2 inches from the front diff. I need a shorter pan in the rear sump area and associated parts to make it all work.
