I was going to do a little show and tell earlier but I figured I'd at least get a little was into the project first. The simple run downgoes like this, 5.3l for now ( forged aluminum 370 over the winter) T76 for now (80-88mm over the winter) 4l80 stick shift to syclone tranfercase to s10 front differential, and infinity q45 rear. also I plan to keep it under 3000lbs Its a bit more complicated than that but thats the basic plan.
Some body is probably asking them selves why would a person do this? I want my car to be all purpose. A car set up launch hard typically sucks when when you ask it to turn hard. and the inverse is true. Ask a hi powered 2wd car to accelerate hard from a roll and what do you get? smoke and rubber, fun but not so effective.
Most of the hard parts have been purchased and are in my garage the big variable left is the the torque converter. Also drive shafts still need be made. I'm thinking a 5 clutch vigalate around 3500 stall. For road racing run it locked in 2nd-4th with a button to unlock for down shifts (sort of a poor mans sequential) for drag racing run it unlocked I'm thinking I can get the best of both worlds. 4 gears should be plenty for a turbo motor and my gear will give the car a theoretical to speed of 206mph. with a goal of around 650 at the tire it should be a gear limited speed.
thats all for now here are some pics of the car, the old sr20det setup and the progress so far. I still have a long way to go.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfg455
There is a regular ton, a metric ton, and now a shit ton which I am assuing is heavier than a metric ton!
Last edited by Professor_speed; 05-26-2008 at 10:12 PM..
I made the alt brackets from Nissan brackets I had laying around.
I'm waiting for the 4l80 to sy/ty transfercase adapter and a 32 spline input shaft for the transfer case to get the awd up and running.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfg455
There is a regular ton, a metric ton, and now a shit ton which I am assuing is heavier than a metric ton!
The oil pan is a modified moroso pan. I forgot to take pictures of the modifications. i have to take it back off once the final turbo placement is set, I still need a drain back. (its similar to the truck pan in the faq that was modded for a sy/ty. The pan is so close to the crank that I had to cut the windage tray to clear the pan.
the front sub frame has bee taken out. the engine has been mounted as a stressed member of the chassis. no rubber or poly anywhere. the engine bolts in and with the two very stout mounts and becomes the link between the left and right frame rail. the axle solid mounts to the motor mounts. on the right it uses the stock mounting ears on the axle on the left its uses the three bolts you can see in the pictures. (does that make sense?) I will try to get better pictures soon.
I am a bit worried the the axle is now the lowest point but it still hangs no lower that a typical bodykit front bumper so I should be fine. (plus s10 parts are everywhere and cheap.)
Are the diff ratios the same you ask? no. before I get a lesson on why it wont work remember that I need the diveshafts spinning the same speed not the cv axles. tire size will make up the difference. with that factored in drive shaft speed will be less that 1/2% difference. that is not enough to cause problems. (when you drive in a circle drive shaft speed difference is more than that)
the car already has an j30 rear end and z32 hubs so that should not be a problem the front will use s-10 hub assemblies re drilled to 5x41/2 bold pattern or ford ranger hubs. yes s10 axles will fit in a ford ranger hub. with a little work) who would have thunk it huh? (ranger hubs are 5x4/12 like Nissan)
I'm currently in design phase for the front control arms. I plan to get the roll center back where it should be.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfg455
There is a regular ton, a metric ton, and now a shit ton which I am assuing is heavier than a metric ton!
OK, first of all, HOLY SHIT. thats a lot of different than I expected
Second - I was asking, because some people might not realize to make the wheels spin at the same rate is important - don't ask, but I've seen too many people blow their diffs that way.
Third - pics of all this jibber-hootie going on in your front wheel wells. Mainly I'm wondering how it all fits together.
Again, good luck, I hope it will run as you want it to.
I,m currently finishing up the motor/axle mounts. (they needed a little modification from the current pics. the control arms will be next, first I have to pin down exactly what im going to use for steering knuckles. I'm thinking aluminum GM front wheel drive stuff machined to accept s10 or ranger hub assemblies. I can't build the a arms until I have that nailed down so I can locate the wheel in the same place as stock.
The trans, transfercase, and front axle has held up to 8's for the sy/ty boys, and that rear diff is near indestructible so i don't think I'll be breaaking many parts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfg455
There is a regular ton, a metric ton, and now a shit ton which I am assuing is heavier than a metric ton!
I see you've done a lot of research, It's what takes the most time. Would like to see a pic of the oil pan. Must be a 4l80e with a GB 32 input shaft on the transfer case, looks like you have enough room for everything, keep us posted, THANKS
__________________ TYHPOON Z06 turbo,pt76gts,inovative progate,turbosmartII,AFR 225 heads 8019 springs, z06 cam, 4l80e,WRE 365 FI short block, doing the nickle, dime stuff. that cost thousands of $$$.
click here for pics http://www.turbols6.com/gallery/view...HOON-LSX-TURBO
2002 SILVERADO Z71 4X4( stock except dual pipes)
have to have something to drive!
240sx+lsx=cool,but add T76 and sy/ty=Nuts? 
The simple run downgoes like this, 5.3l for now ( forged aluminum 370 over the winter
) T76 for now (80-88mm over the winter
