Looks like you have a good start on things. To answer 1BadElky's question, yes, LS1 rear brakes do bolt right up to this rear end. You just need a spacer between the bearing end cap and the bearing to make up the difference in thickness between the stock backing plate and the LS1 backing plate... But it looks like the450r is going with a different rear than stock. GOOD LUCK!!!!!
__________________ 1998 Firebird Formula HT, M6 - SPORT GOLD METALLIC 1968 Pontiac LeMans Cnvt 1968 Pontiac Lemans HT - undergoing frame-off resto with LS1 transplant IN PROCESS....http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...ls1/?start=all 2008 Chevy Silverado 4X4 - daily driver
its a 10 bolt rear and its not going be strong enough for this setup. heard stories about if the axle bearings retain the axles and when they go bad after some abuse the tire and axle combo likes to leave the car as its moving
its a 10 bolt rear and its not going be strong enough for this setup. heard stories about if the axle bearings retain the axles and when they go bad after some abuse the tire and axle combo likes to leave the car as its moving
The story you heard is about c-clip style axles. The Pontiac 10 bolt should have an 8.5" ring gear and bearing retention place to keep the axles in place. It will be plenty strong. What gear is in it?
a '67 BOP 10-bolt should still be an 8.2 (technically 8.25), but totally different from the Chevy 8.2. It'll have 27 spline axles which will help a little. http://www.oldsmobility.com/10bolt-tech.htm.
The most common complaint I hear with 1st gen Fbody 8.2 10-bolts is breaking the ring gear. Dunno about the BOP, but I bet that the most common piece to go too. It will really depend on what kind of tires you run. The maximum torque the rear end sees is 100% dependant on how well you hook up. If you plan on running drag slicks and a T56, yer gonna break something.
The lost axle horror stories are mostly from millions of bad 8.5 10-bolt axles GM made in Buffalo in the late 70's and early 80's. C-clips were falling off them left and right on grocery-getters.
I have the conversion mounts in stock that should make your life a bit easier, If memory serves me correct the unit is the A body.... You can use one of our pans or modify the crossmember.... We did both!
the biggest obsticle i have right now is how to mount the clutch petal in the auto car. i have the whole petal assembly from the 01 camaro. ive been searching for anyone who has done this on A bodys. Or buy chevelle/gto factory stick brake and clutch petals?
some of my pictures are too big of a file to post.
first pic is the clutch master cylinder i got from Lincoln Clutch and Brake, Lincoln, NE. dont have price yet.
Centric Parts 136.62034
second is Mcleod clutch line that already has the "Drill Bit Mod" performed. I needed a line anyway because my master cylinder didnt come with one. The GM master cylinder comes with the line and the restriction.
Summit Racing
MCL-139212 $90.99
3rd and 4th close up of quick connect fitting
last Street and Performance clutch master cylinder adaptor bracket with master cylinder loosely installed.
Street and Performance
hotrodlane.cc $81.95
I also bought some Dorman Double Bead fuel line that has the 3/8"x12 fuel line for the quick disconnect. I cut it in half and flared both ends. so i should be able to connect my fuel line from the rail to this piece to the hard line to the tank. and use the other at the tank or at the corvette filter/regulator.
Local parts store:
Dorman 800-155
the biggest obsticle i have right now is how to mount the clutch petal in the auto car. i have the whole petal assembly from the 01 camaro. ive been searching for anyone who has done this on A bodys. Or buy chevelle/gto factory stick brake and clutch petals?
shes got a little cancer hole in the truck but i was impressed on the shape of the rockers, floors, front fenders. it was kept in a shed.
i have a coworker with a 69 chevelle automatic with manual pedals in it im hoping to trade him my single pedal hes not sure on teh condition of the clutch pedal he says it has play left and right but its not hooked up to anything.
Is it possible to put a intank fuel pump in the original tank? I have the LS1 Engine kit Install guide Book from GM and it lists a 25163473 for a fuel pump. it lists a radiator hoses and cooling fans also.
a '67 BOP 10-bolt should still be an 8.2 (technically 8.25), but totally different from the Chevy 8.2. It'll have 27 spline axles which will help a little. http://www.oldsmobility.com/10bolt-tech.htm.
The most common complaint I hear with 1st gen Fbody 8.2 10-bolts is breaking the ring gear. Dunno about the BOP, but I bet that the most common piece to go too. It will really depend on what kind of tires you run. The maximum torque the rear end sees is 100% dependant on how well you hook up. If you plan on running drag slicks and a T56, yer gonna break something.
The lost axle horror stories are mostly from millions of bad 8.5 10-bolt axles GM made in Buffalo in the late 70's and early 80's. C-clips were falling off them left and right on grocery-getters.
a 10 bolt 8.5 out of a 71-72 olds cutlass or buick skylark (the only A-bodys that got 8.5" diffs) would be easy and relatively cheap to do compared to 12 bolt/9in they have bolt in axles , strong 8.5 posi and gears are readily available and they can hold up to 10-11 second e/ts - plenty strong for a mere LS1 6 speed. I am installing a 3.42 in my T/A clone with H/C ls6. I build these 8.5" GM rear ends in my spare time for people. the ONLY people I know that have hurt them is with a healty BB slicks and nitrous!
IMO dont spend money where its not needed, hope this helps
__________________ 69 Trans Am clone under construction:
minitub,flare,LS6-M6 4w/disc-c5 ft-ls1 rear
69 Z 2/8 R/S 302 4sp 4.10
87 Trans Am 383 torque mtr-sold to son
99 Firehawk m6
68 Lemans LS1 T56 swap 
Good luck with the swap!!
