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Old 04-27-2009, 08:48 AM   #1
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Default Time to replace rear window curtain

Well, now it's time to replace the rear window curtain. Any ls1tech vendors sell it? I've seen prices online ranging from $209-$339 for cloth with defroster glass, with 5-year warranty.
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:30 PM   #2
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I ended up ordering one off ebaxxx for $239 shipped - its the haartz fabric with defroster glass. Now I have to make something to temporarily close up the hole.
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:05 PM   #3
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Default Temporary replacement

made a wood frame, stapled to inside of curtain, cut an old piece of Plexiglas using two sided tape to hold in place. Just want to keep rain and debris out until I can install new one.
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xny1989 View Post
made a wood frame, stapled to inside of curtain, cut an old piece of Plexiglas using two sided tape to hold in place. Just want to keep rain and debris out until I can install new one.
So how do you put the top down? Man, I would have never thought of that.....

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Old 04-28-2009, 04:41 PM   #5
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I won't put the top down - this is temporary.
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Old 04-29-2009, 10:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xny1989 View Post
I ended up ordering one off ebaxxx for $239 shipped - its the haartz fabric with defroster glass. Now I have to make something to temporarily close up the hole.
Are you going to try to install it yourself? I would be curious to know the quality of the top, how it goes etc.

I need to do the top on my olds, I spent the money I had set aside for it to replace the top on my Camaro when the back window fell out of it

Was the $239 just the glass window section or the entire top?
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:56 PM   #7
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the price was just for the window and the fabric its connected to - its called the window curtain. The rest of the top is in fair shape - I figure I'll try this first, and if it works out, then go for the full top. I understand that doing them separately is alot more work, but I'd rather approach it slowly then try and do the whole thing at one time.

What year Olds do you have? My son has a 65 Cutlass
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Old 04-30-2009, 05:16 PM   #8
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Mmmm, 65 Cutlass is a nice car tell him congrats on it.

He have a 425 or a 350?

I have a 68 Cutlass S with a built marine 455 in it

Here is a pic of her and with my Camaro




More here if you have any interest.....

http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m...stacog/68Olds/
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:51 PM   #9
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That's a beautiful car!

It originally came with a 330, jetstar 2 speed auto and 10 bolt open rear. It now has a mild 455 connected to a 200r4 (3000 rpm converter) and 3.73 12 bolt posi. I'm not that pleased with the performance, but don't get to drive it much, and the tranny is still kind of new, so we haven't hit the gas that hard yet.

I've also got an older 'toy' to play with besides the camaro. I have a 72 GMC Sprint (aka GMC's version of the el camino). got lots of body rust to replace, and a 402 sitting in the garage to go in after I send it to the machine shop *currently has a mild 350 in there). It has a turbo 400, 12 bolt open rear with ~2.70 gears.

We have an expensive hobby, don't we?
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by xny1989 View Post
That's a beautiful car!

It originally came with a 330, jetstar 2 speed auto and 10 bolt open rear. It now has a mild 455 connected to a 200r4 (3000 rpm converter) and 3.73 12 bolt posi. I'm not that pleased with the performance, but don't get to drive it much, and the tranny is still kind of new, so we haven't hit the gas that hard yet.

I've also got an older 'toy' to play with besides the camaro. I have a 72 GMC Sprint (aka GMC's version of the el camino). got lots of body rust to replace, and a 402 sitting in the garage to go in after I send it to the machine shop *currently has a mild 350 in there). It has a turbo 400, 12 bolt open rear with ~2.70 gears.

We have an expensive hobby, don't we?
Yes, we do, but it's much safer financially than horse racing at least.

Interesting on the 200r4 I have bounced around doing one in my olds. My olds is so low geared it hurts it on the Freeway and kills the mpg, but then again I think about how often I drive it long distance and think hmmm, prob better to leave well enough alone till something breaks, then I might...

Where did you get the 200r4 built to handle the 455 torque
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:29 PM   #11
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A local tranny shop that also specializes in race tranny's. It kicks like a mule, and haven't gotten on it hard yet, as its still be broken in ~ 200 miles.
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:53 AM   #12
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Update - received the curtain and window, and it looks good. I've got the head cold from hell, so I will hold off doing the install until the weekend.

The top part of the curtain has an 'L' shaped plastic strip. I'm presuming that this slides into the top frame, and that I access that channel in the top frame by removing a cover that has two allen screws on either side. The bottom of the curtain, which has a line drawn across it attaches to the nailer strip held in place in the trunk, and that line marks the location to attach the curtain to the nailer.
I'll try and take some pics of the project as it progresses, over the weekend.
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:49 PM   #13
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Well, finally got to it this weekend. I'm about 95% done - having problem getting the nailer to line up with the bolts - I cut holes in the material where each bolt would go through - may have to cut away more material, like in the original, to get bolts to go into their slots - not to mention the mess of working with the OEM glue that's on the rail, the window hitting me in the head as I try to maneuver in there, and sweat dripping down over my eyes. So, it was time to stop!
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:57 PM   #14
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here's some pics of it
Attached Images
File Type: jpg replacement window.JPG (374.4 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg staples - old window.JPG (460.5 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg center rivit.JPG (336.8 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg sliding window in track.JPG (337.1 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg new window in place.JPG (439.5 KB, 61 views)
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Old 05-31-2009, 04:28 PM   #15
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OK, had to increase the size of the holes in the material, and got it done. Unfortunately, I do have to take it apart, as the material isn't even, as the pictures show. Will have to pull the ends tighter to match up with the middle.
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File Type: jpg top - drivers side.JPG (406.2 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg top drivers side 2.JPG (414.9 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg top passenger side.JPG (469.3 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg top passenger side 2.JPG (395.0 KB, 48 views)
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:01 PM   #16
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OK, finally finished it. Got everything tucked in real nice. The biggest problem I ran into when doing this was getting the nailer bolted back in place because I didn't cut large enough holes in the material. Once I did that, it all went back together easily. It's nice to be able to ride with the top down again.
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xny1989 View Post
OK, finally finished it. Got everything tucked in real nice. The biggest problem I ran into when doing this was getting the nailer bolted back in place because I didn't cut large enough holes in the material. Once I did that, it all went back together easily. It's nice to be able to ride with the top down again.
Congrats on getting the job done, If I was that brave I would probably have a decent top on my olds....

You get the bragging rights now to say.... I replaced that bad boy myself...
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Old 06-04-2009, 04:11 PM   #18
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Actually, all I replaced was the rear window curtain. Not sure I want to tackle the rest of the top, but since it's still in decent condition, I'll wait - LOL Catback is next - my 4-year old hooker catback has a hole in the I-pipe just before it goes to the muffler - gonna go with stainless setup - maganflow probably. I just did a pypes stainless system on my GMC Sprint, complete with x-pipe and chambered mufflers.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:56 PM   #19
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I had a 16 yr old kid replace my complete top in about 5 hrs. His dad owned the trim shop I went too. Freakin install was top notch. Cost $1100 with parts and labor.
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Old 06-24-2009, 05:26 PM   #20
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That's a very reasonable price! top and rear glass window run around $600 if I remember correctly.

Doing just the back window involved about 1/3 the work of doing the whole top. I had to detach and restaple most of the rear connection points, particularly on one side. It looks to me that there are staples in the center of the top and the front as well, plus the cables, etc. Important thing is that you're satisfied with the result.
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