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Old 12-05-2007, 09:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzettler83 View Post
YOU SHOULD WAIT ON THE GEARS UNTIL YOU GET THE CLUTCH>... Save money on isntall...

I am pretty sure.... For the gears they have to drop the whole tq tube assembly and will have to do it all over again for the clutch.... Might save you some money to do it all at once with the car already apart. (-:
You can change the rear without removing the torque tube or trans. You just need to drop the rear crossmember and angle everything down a bit. To get the angle you will need to pull the exhaust and the tunnel plate.
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:01 PM   #22
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^ That is true, but if I went that far I would change the clutch, since all that would be left is un-bolting the torque tube from the bell housing. I just repaired my tranny (broke the main output shaft) and put everything back together without changing the clutch and now my clutch is slipping go figure Oh well at least we did all the work ourselves.
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:40 PM   #23
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Well keep us posted. I will have to go to LB one of these days and meet up with you. Well once I get it up and running again Lol, my clutch is slipping pretty bad so I ordered a Mcleod Twin Disk, so in a couple weeks when it comes in it will be back on the road, so in the meantime I have to drive the Z06 (LOL)
Hell I get to drive my wifes GMC pick up........but it has 20's and flowmaster's..
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:53 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Shoaf85 View Post
Good choice I went to a 3.90 a few months ago and definately think any one should do it. Unless over like 700 whp!
I have 2 in car videos below before and after they are not exactly from the same start and stop points but you kind of get the idea

3.42 30-105 run


3.90 20-130 run
Nice video's finally someone who can shift
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Old 12-06-2007, 02:26 AM   #25
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My car is going to Cartek this week for a whole lot of work which includes 4.10's! I cant wait!!! From what I read at CF.com, 4.10s are definetly the way to go!!
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10.54 @ 134 with the 100 shot and a 10.3 AFR! 9's on stock bottom end or BUST!
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Old 12-07-2007, 08:54 PM   #26
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I went from the 3.42's to a DTE 3.90 diff and was really liking it until it lost a tooth off the ring gear and took out my trans output shaft in the process, (on the road course if you can believe that). I went to a 3.73 gear and stage 5 parts after that debacle and feel that the Zo6 should have come from the factory with the 3.73's. It is a beast at the drag strip, and really kicks butt on the street and the road course while still getting great gas mileage on trips. With the gearing in the Z06 trans, the 3.90's were a bit much on the street and the drag strip and caused a bit more wheelspin than I wanted in the lower gears. I feel the 3.73's are a perfect fit for a multiple duty car at my power level. HTH,,,,,,,

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Old 12-09-2007, 08:41 PM   #27
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I am also thinking of doing a Dynotech rear end change to the 3.90 with my 99 M6.
If that 3.90 rear gearing and T-56 trans gives you the same effect as a Z06 then that
should do the trick. Guess it would feel like the car has 100 more hp.
My Caddy CTS-V has the LS6 and the 3.73 rear end and its hard to hook with the smaller
245 wide tires, just shreads them, need to upgrade the rears to 275/35/18's in the spring.

I would like to put the cars head to head and see how they stack up.
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Old 12-10-2007, 05:45 PM   #28
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3.90s are great. I think a regular M6 with 3.90s is better than the Z51 (Z06) with the stock rear. 4th gear ratio is a closer spaced to 3rd and 5th isn't as much of an overdrive either. Here's what the equivalent gearing looks like:

Z06... Stock with 3.90s
2.97... 3.03
2.07... 2.03
1.43... 1.48
1.00... 1.14
0.71... 0.84
0.57... 0.57
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Old 12-15-2007, 11:33 PM   #29
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Thanks Rick and Andrew you guys did a awesome job on my car today. Love the 3.90's and Rick also did a quick tune on my car. On the way home I still got over 30 miles per gallon.........Can not beat that.........
Synergy Motorsports real good people that make you feel at home.

Thanks Again

Mike
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:10 PM   #30
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So what is your RPM on the Hwy in 6th gear at 75mph?
Fuel economy must suffer a bit.
Just interested in what rpm zone you are in now while cruising.
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Old 02-02-2008, 04:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racebyu View Post
So what is your RPM on the Hwy in 6th gear at 75mph?
Fuel economy must suffer a bit.
Just interested in what rpm zone you are in now while cruising.
6th gear doing 75 mph, rpms at 1900........
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Old 02-02-2008, 07:17 PM   #32
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Thats great, rpm are still under 2k.
Still might get some good mileage with a good tims tune.
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Old 02-03-2008, 12:15 AM   #33
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Quote:
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Thats great, rpm are still under 2k.
Still might get some good mileage with a good tims tune.
Pretty close to 30 if I keep it under 75 mph
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:37 AM   #34
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Well... I got my car back from Cartek and all I have to say is that the gears (4.10's) are awsome! I put my CCWs on that alow me to run a 325-30-19 in the rear and once the tires are warm... traction isnt a problem for me. I made 453 rwhp and 400 ft lb tq with the work that Cartek did and the car is unbelievable now! GO 4.10s!!!!!
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10.54 @ 134 with the 100 shot and a 10.3 AFR! 9's on stock bottom end or BUST!
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Old 02-03-2008, 08:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdaniel View Post
Well... I got my car back from Cartek and all I have to say is that the gears (4.10's) are awsome! I put my CCWs on that alow me to run a 325-30-19 in the rear and once the tires are warm... traction isnt a problem for me. I made 453 rwhp and 400 ft lb tq with the work that Cartek did and the car is unbelievable now! GO 4.10s!!!!!
Dam I get no traction at all 1st or 2nd....
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