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Old 09-11-2009, 06:17 PM   #61
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After reading this, I took my front d10s 15x4s with mickey front runner tires off and gave them away, honest truth. the new onwer will post up soon. also I weighed the Bogarts with the tires, and weighed my weld draglites with the exact same tires, the bogarts were 6.5lbs heavier. Stupid me I should have sold them...oh well saftey first. Thank god they did not come apart for him at high speed.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:20 PM   #62
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Got my rear bolted d 10's today. Damn they are light. I could see how abusive street driving could take these things out. And my understanding is the bolted version is stronger than the bolted. Can't wait till the fronts show up.

P.S. Steve I sent you an email.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:26 PM   #63
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Ok now come on. This is getting a bit ridiculous at this point. Nasti98z you must have heavier air in the tires now...lol. The front wheels are close in weight, within about a 1 lb difference whereas ours are lighter. No manufactures drag wheels are going to be 8 lbs in difference!!!
...For that series, they can be as low as ~8 lbs depending on how we built them.

I think I'm done with this thread. I've tried to be reasonable and discuss differences and explanations regarding wheels. I've also clarified the original posters discussion.

Hopefully maybe it has helped some.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:28 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc View Post
If you wanted street/strip wheels (not drag wheels) we have them and building them for years, the older ones we built is VERY similar to how Billet makes them now (they are using the same shells). We changed for various reasons.

Our new street/strip F-body wheels utilize a new design using higher grade superior material. They have a 3 year warranty. They are lighter than billets by quite a bit and both our front and rear wheels fit without modifications...unlike Billets.

Billet wheels break too. I've seen them crack. If you'd like to see a picture of one, I can post it too.

I'm not knocking their wheels, they are nice. My point in commenting to your post was that you purchased a completely different style non drag wheel and you're assuming your wheel is bulletproof.
can you pm me a link or a picture of these wheels, interesting...also i am guessing it is going to be a quiet a bit more than $950 for the set of 4...

and of course i know they are not bulletproof...no wheel is, even stock wheels will pop like the picture you posted of the billets when you hit a nice curb...
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:46 PM   #65
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The Street/strip wheels will look like the bolted P1 wheels. If you like a wheel that is NON bolted, we can create a bolted version for you in the street strip category.

They will be more expensive than 950.00 set (not sure what you're comparing them to so I cant respond to what benefits one may have over another). Tell me what you're considering and I'll try to explain differences. It would be up to you though what fits your budget and goals in the end.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:51 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA View Post
Got my rear bolted d 10's today. Damn they are light. I could see how abusive street driving could take these things out. And my understanding is the bolted version is stronger than the bolted. Can't wait till the fronts show up.

P.S. Steve I sent you an email.
Yes, they are more durable. I have in 15 years ~7 people who bent/cracked one on an F-body. Obviously 1000's sold and according to many...self admitting they use them on the street.

If people have other questions, feel free to e-mail or call. I'm not going to discuss those damaged wheels further. I believe I've shown the whole picture. Some are just jumping on a bandwagon at this point either for the fun of it or for other reasons.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:54 PM   #67
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Just want to say SJM has been more then fair with the op,I run a set of boltet RT on my car had them for at least 4yrs my car see alot of street duty.I've had no problems with mine and if somethings does go wrong I know it was my mistake for driving them on the street.That being said Steve at SJM is the best of the best when it comes to dealing with customers.

Steve you make a outstanding product and have the best customer support you can find.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:15 PM   #68
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Rears weighed in at 13 lbs each. Can't wait to weigh the fronts.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:21 PM   #69
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SJM... I am not saying they are not a quality wheel, but if I every buy another set they will be bolt togather, I did weigh the wheels with the exact same tire 26x7.5 x 15 Mickey sportsman fronts the d10s were 6.5 lbs heavyer then my welds, I weighed them 3 times because I could not beleve it either, again I am not knocking the wheels, did'nt Speed Inc the same issue with a rear wheel on there shop car, driving home from Cordova Dragway, after Drag Week in 07 or 08? I think it actually messed up the car (quarter panel). But I give you guys credit for stepping up and offering to repair the wheel for him even if it was 4 years old.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:21 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA View Post
Rears weighed in at 13 lbs each. Can't wait to weigh the fronts.
really they are that heavy...i would have figured they were more around 11lbs...

my old convos were 13lbs for the rear....but this was a hair smaller being a 15x9...i am guessing these are 10 in wide rims
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:23 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc View Post
The Street/strip wheels will look like the bolted P1 wheels. If you like a wheel that is NON bolted, we can create a bolted version for you in the street strip category.

They will be more expensive than 950.00 set (not sure what you're comparing them to so I cant respond to what benefits one may have over another). Tell me what you're considering and I'll try to explain differences. It would be up to you though what fits your budget and goals in the end.
the $950 for a set of 4 was for the billet specialities i got now...
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:24 PM   #72
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Quote:
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Rears weighed in at 13 lbs each. Can't wait to weigh the fronts.
That sounds a bit heavy actually. Weight does depend on the style and how they were built.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:34 PM   #73
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Quote:
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SJM... I am not saying they are not a quality wheel, but if I every buy another set they will be bolt togather, I did weigh the wheels with the exact same tire 26x7.5 x 15 Mickey sportsman fronts the d10s were 6.5 lbs heavyer then my welds, I weighed them 3 times because I could not beleve it either, again I am not knocking the wheels, did'nt Speed Inc the same issue with a rear wheel on there shop car, driving home from Cordova Dragway, after Drag Week in 07 or 08? I think it actually messed up the car (quarter panel). But I give you guys credit for stepping up and offering to repair the wheel for him even if it was 4 years old.
Let me get whatever you're smoking. There is NO way there is that much of a difference in wheel weight.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:56 PM   #74
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Let me get whatever you're smoking. There is NO way there is that much of a difference in wheel weight.
Ok, I am going to get ahold of the kid I gave them to, and have him stop back over and re-weigh. Like I said I was also suprised.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:56 PM   #75
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That sounds a bit heavy actually. Weight does depend on the style and how they were built.
Scale might be off a hair one way or the other but not that far off. What do they usually weigh in at??
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:07 PM   #76
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It depends on the backspace, it depends on the design. Typically for the LS1 ~11lbs. The bolted D10 does have slightly more material in the center section though vs. say the bolted RT for example. Steel valve stems are installed too. Not sure if you're weighing the cap as well.

To the other one that weighed their front, I believe what you read but there's something wrong as a prostar/draglite should be ~11lbs. That would mean that ours weighed 19lbs. Even the heaviest street/strip wheel is ~12-13lbs.

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Old 09-11-2009, 08:23 PM   #77
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Steve...as is said I will reweigh both wheels with the tires, and post up the #s, shit my scale could be wrong.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:30 PM   #78
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The center does feel like most of the weight is there. The valve stems are installed but no center caps. BS is 7.5 normal setup.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:33 PM   #79
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it's not a big deal. You really need to weigh them without the tires, valve stems and caps and wheel weights to be accurate. Steel stems btw are ~8oz or 1/2lb fwiw.

The weight you found is 100% inaccurate for whatever reason. I do believe you that you read what you did. There's no way that any drag wheel companies front skinny wheel would be almost as heavy as a your stock wheel. It would make it heavier than any companies rear drag wheel as well.

If you have a MT-1573 on the wheels, they should be ~19lbs. This means you should have weighed both wheels in the neighborhood of ~29lbs give or take a 1lb.

Have a good night everyone. I've got to head home.

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Old 09-11-2009, 08:49 PM   #80
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My bolted RT's and MT-1573's weighed #18 each. IIRC my 17X9.5 TTII's with 275/40's were #50 each. As far as Steve and SJM, I would have no problem giving them my business again.
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