I have my car ripped apart and I'm thinking about switching to a stalled, trans - braked th350 or having my t-56 faceplated. I hardly drive it on the street and I'm not concerned with street manners. What benefits from either set up. If I keep the manual, it will get a much better clutch also.
__________________ #7696, red/ebony, m6, ms4, prc ls6 stage 2.5's, fast 90/90, all bolt ons, 12 bolt w/4:30's,full susp., bogarts and on a diet. 455 hp, 416 tq. best to date is 11.274 @ 124.28
Can't out shift an auto trans, and you won't get more consistant than a trans with a brake on it. I use a TH350 setup with a 8" 5200 converter, and love it.
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LOW-TECH RACING NBM Camaro Z28
Mineral Grey SVT Cobra
__________________ 2002 Trans Am m6: stock heads and bottom end, 10.02 @ 136 on a 150 shot, 3400lbs
Tuned and built by me, welded/fabricated by Madman.
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Q/C m6
"If it flys, floats, or fucks you're bound to have trouble with it."
an auto may be faster, and more consistent, but theres something manly about rowing gears.. I say be different and get the faceplated trans... everyone and their brother has an auto
__________________ Black 2002 SS A4 345hp CME 1/4: 11.49 @ 116.92 w/ 1.56 60' Stock Internal (SOLD!!)
an auto may be faster, and more consistent, but theres something manly about rowing gears.. I say be different and get the faceplated trans... everyone and their brother has an auto
What he ^^ said.
I know autos are generally faster and more consistent. I guess it depends what you're doing with the car. If you're professionally bracket racing the car, then it would make sense to go with an auto for consistency. But if you're just a weekend warrior that goes to the track for fun, I'd say stick with the T56. Personally, I enjoy dropping the clutch at the line and rowing the gears. IMO, that's "driving" the car, not just "steering" the car.
My .02.
Mike
__________________ -97 Z28 LS1 - New Forged 6.0l 370 In The Works
Old 387 Combo N/A - 11.03 @ 125.55mph FQuick \ LS1 Swap Thread
i've had both and my th400 crushed my times from my facepalted 6spd ....true story
Well I guess you know what that means? Do I need to say it?
__________________ 2002 Trans Am m6: stock heads and bottom end, 10.02 @ 136 on a 150 shot, 3400lbs
Tuned and built by me, welded/fabricated by Madman.
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Q/C m6
"If it flys, floats, or fucks you're bound to have trouble with it."
I've had both in a Mustang. For a NA, high reving motor, there nothing more fun than hitting gears. If you are trying to win races though, an auto is your better choice.
IMO, that's "driving" the car, not just "steering" the car.
I think you're confused on how a brake'd auto works. You're trans-brake locks first and reverse, allowing you to rev the car to your selected RPM, or up to whatever your two-step is set at, and when you release the button, it releases the fluid and takes off with a "drop of the clutch" effect. Also, with a trans-brake valve body, they are a reverse pattern manual valve body, meaning they will not shift themselves. You have to shift them, and can do so at your desired RPM. It's still "driving" the car, you just don't have to fuck around with pressing a clutch in. I've driven plenty of T56 cars, and they are fun, but my first ride with my MRVB Auto with a 5200 converter, I was hooked. Nothing like clicking through a couple gears and not worrying about dropping RPM between shifts.
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LOW-TECH RACING NBM Camaro Z28
Mineral Grey SVT Cobra
I've had both in a Mustang. For a NA, high reving motor, there nothing more fun than hitting gears. If you are trying to win races though, an auto is your better choice.
FYI, my car SLOWED down with the auto.
Your turbo car slowed down with an Auto?
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LOW-TECH RACING NBM Camaro Z28
Mineral Grey SVT Cobra
I think you're confused on how a brake'd auto works. You're trans-brake locks first and reverse, allowing you to rev the car to your selected RPM, or up to whatever your two-step is set at, and when you release the button, it releases the fluid and takes off with a "drop of the clutch" effect. Also, with a trans-brake valve body, they are a reverse pattern manual valve body, meaning they will not shift themselves. You have to shift them, and can do so at your desired RPM. It's still "driving" the car, you just don't have to fuck around with pressing a clutch in. I've driven plenty of T56 cars, and they are fun, but my first ride with my MRVB Auto with a 5200 converter, I was hooked. Nothing like clicking through a couple gears and not worrying about dropping RPM between shifts.
I have no problem with auto's... they are far superior in every way when it comes to drag racing... but when its a toy, you can't beat a 6speed.. if nothing else it adds a degree of difficulty that allows you to be occupied longer with a particular setup, bc you have to strive for that perfect run. Where with an auto a "perfect run" is much more attainable and repeatable..
__________________ Black 2002 SS A4 345hp CME 1/4: 11.49 @ 116.92 w/ 1.56 60' Stock Internal (SOLD!!)
The problem with the T-56 for drag racing is the first gear ratio. 2.66 really sucks for launching the car. With nearly any other manual trans, the car will be quicker than any auto with all things being equal. It is very possible to shift a manual trans as fast as an auto. You just need the right trans and lots of practice. Auto's are easier to be consistent and take much less maintenance to run, but in my opinion are not nearly as fun to drive. That's what it's all about to me, having fun. I plan on putting a Jerico in my car before too long. That 3 something low gear will really help.
I think you're confused on how a brake'd auto works. You're trans-brake locks first and reverse, allowing you to rev the car to your selected RPM, or up to whatever your two-step is set at, and when you release the button, it releases the fluid and takes off with a "drop of the clutch" effect. Also, with a trans-brake valve body, they are a reverse pattern manual valve body, meaning they will not shift themselves. You have to shift them, and can do so at your desired RPM. It's still "driving" the car, you just don't have to fuck around with pressing a clutch in. I've driven plenty of T56 cars, and they are fun, but my first ride with my MRVB Auto with a 5200 converter, I was hooked. Nothing like clicking through a couple gears and not worrying about dropping RPM between shifts.
Amen, I was die hard 6 speed until I took a pass inm y buddies th350 on a foot brake even. No worry about missed gears, left like hell, and at the end of the day cheaper to build and maintain. I went home that nite and took the 6 sped out of mine and put it up for sale.
Now if it was a decient streetable car maybey but not for what I do with it
I think you're confused on how a brake'd auto works. You're trans-brake locks first and reverse, allowing you to rev the car to your selected RPM, or up to whatever your two-step is set at, and when you release the button, it releases the fluid and takes off with a "drop of the clutch" effect. Also, with a trans-brake valve body, they are a reverse pattern manual valve body, meaning they will not shift themselves. You have to shift them, and can do so at your desired RPM. It's still "driving" the car, you just don't have to fuck around with pressing a clutch in. I've driven plenty of T56 cars, and they are fun, but my first ride with my MRVB Auto with a 5200 converter, I was hooked. Nothing like clicking through a couple gears and not worrying about dropping RPM between shifts.
LOL,,,, I wasn't confused in the slightest and I was plenty familiar with how a t-brake works. Pushing a gated shifter on a auto (t-brake or not) IMO still isn't "driving" a car no matter how you try to pretty-it-up. That "fucking around with pressing in the clutch" is what makes it "driving" and not "steering" the car. That's just my opinion though.
Mike
__________________ -97 Z28 LS1 - New Forged 6.0l 370 In The Works
Old 387 Combo N/A - 11.03 @ 125.55mph FQuick \ LS1 Swap Thread
Anything will break... But I have put my t56 though plenty of abuse and the only failure it ever saw was a cracked blocker ring on 3rd gear. $150 for a blocker ring kit and it was good as new.
__________________ 2002 Trans Am m6: stock heads and bottom end, 10.02 @ 136 on a 150 shot, 3400lbs
Tuned and built by me, welded/fabricated by Madman.
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Q/C m6
"If it flys, floats, or fucks you're bound to have trouble with it."
First time to track with new suspension with my 6 speed I got a best of 10.4 at 128 mph. Going back today, it's holding boost better, would like to see 9.99 with a 9 on the slip.
__________________ 2002 Z06, 11.84 at 123 mph w/ 1.84 60'.. Daily Driver
2000 SS Camaro, Stock Short w/ Arp rod bolts, 317 heads w/ comp Springs, 223/231 610/617 113 lsa, Precision Gt67 Turbo, JGS Waste and blow off, Eboost2, Two-Step, Ls6 intake, twin Walbro, Aeromotive reg & Rails, 60lb Inj, Tub K/member, 12 bolt/342/trueTrac, Mcleod Twin Disc, 6 Speed, Spohn Tq Arm - Control Arms - Panhard - Drag Bar. 10.5 at 132 mph w/ 1.47 60'..
faceplated t-56 or th350 
