The class runs 5.0 - 5.30's right now. budgets are subjective i guess and different depending where your at cause i think it costs huge to play in this class where BBC f3r's, twin 80's and as much juice as you want are alowed.
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I'll look into that and see. Going 25.2 gives me a lot of flexibility in the future and is more than enough for the car. Mini tubbing is mainly for the weight savings and its nice to know we could throw bigger tires on if we want to go faster... like a 10.5 class or 315 Radial, etc...
Minitub allows you to run a shorter rear on a smaller tire as well, or to run a smaller tire, tucked under the well a little tighter.
Below are some new pictures taken today. My Chassis builder has been working on the front bumper support and frame rail area first. This is just the beginning and more cutting and bracing to come.
In the first picture you can get an idea on how much stuff he took out. The bottom U shape brace is also coming out and getting replaced with chromoly tubing as well. You notice in this first pic a tube going between the frame rails and he put that there first before he started cutting the front off to keep things straight. Not a bad idea and it will come off when the front support is done.
The next 2 pics are of the left and right side of the front bumper support on the bumper of course. You can see how it mounts up and stabilizes the front cover.
The last picture shows the chromoly tubing he put together to hold the headlight covers on to retain the stock appearance. We completely eliminated all the OEM headlight mounting and put this in its place so the covers can stay attached. Pretty slick IMO. Hope you enjoy and more pics coming.
Location: In the garage, working towards a 2900 lb raceweight :D
Posts: 10,773
Intresting. Looks like he decided to leave the frame rails in place up to and including the stock bumper support mounts. That's a different approach from what I have seen done on other cars, the entire nose should be able to be unbolted and removed as a single piece, which is nice.
I do like how the headlight covers are mounted as well.
Intresting. Looks like he decided to leave the frame rails in place up to and including the stock bumper support mounts. That's a different approach from what I have seen done on other cars, the entire nose should be able to be unbolted and removed as a single piece, which is nice.
I do like how the headlight covers are mounted as well.
We have to leave the front framerail in tact per how it came from the factory. We are not suppose to be allowed to cut it further back.
Here is more front end work from the chassis shop. The front end is going to be able to slide off as one piece when this is all done. Should be really slick. Anyhow, a lot more work to go but its coming along nicely.
Received some great news the other day. Chris Alston Chassisworks is going to use my car to develop a full line of drag racing suspension parts and 25.2 and 25.3 roll cages for 4th Gen F-bodies. They currently don't have any stuff for our cars and after hearing about my build from my chassis builder they wanted to be a part of it. So, they are going to do all the R&D, CAD design, etc... and make a 25.3 cage, FAB 9" housing, control arms, panhard bar, torque arm, mini tub kit and more for my car. My only out of pocket is for the parts and material to manufacturer this stuff. When I heard this I damn near fell outta my chair. I still can't believe it....
Tell me about it. I'm extremely lucky and fortunate my chassis builder has a great relationship with Alston Sr. and Alston Jr. Should be interesting to watch the process unfold.
Good stuff though, maybe a reasonably affordable 25.3 kit will now be available once you're done
Thats the whole reason they are doing this. Alston doesn't offer anything for our cars and wants to. What would a reasonably priced 25.3 kit cost or what would you pay for one?
Location: In the garage, working towards a 2900 lb raceweight :D
Posts: 10,773
I'd say, that if they can price a 25.2 jig notched kit around the same that a similar kit goes for say for a fox body or a G body car, I'd say we'd be in good shape.
Personally I don't know what the going rate is at this point for one... but if you can get the thing priced like the other popular racing platforms then it should be a decent deal.
Just make sure it's designed to accomodate a 6'5 300 lb driver, not that I'm that big, but you want it to fit the biggest guy possible, and be adjustable for a smaller driver.
Just make sure it's designed to accomodate a 6'5 300 lb driver, not that I'm that big, but you want it to fit the biggest guy possible, and be adjustable for a smaller driver.
This is a very good point, one that many people over look. i'm 6'7 and have got in many cars that i could hardly drive around the pits let alone take down the track.
sick build by the way and congrats on the chassisworks deal!
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I'd say, that if they can price a 25.2 jig notched kit around the same that a similar kit goes for say for a fox body or a G body car, I'd say we'd be in good shape.
Personally I don't know what the going rate is at this point for one... but if you can get the thing priced like the other popular racing platforms then it should be a decent deal.
Just make sure it's designed to accomodate a 6'5 300 lb driver, not that I'm that big, but you want it to fit the biggest guy possible, and be adjustable for a smaller driver.
Not sure what the pricing will be when its done but I'm pretty sure they will try to make it reasonable. In talking with my chassis builder the cage will have some adjustability in it for bigger or smaller people. The main area of interference is the funny car hoop and whoever installs the cage will have some leeway depending on the seat placement and size of person, etc... In my case I'm 6'1 and 220lbs so we will need to play with the funny car hoop part of the cage and should be able to with no problems.