I finally got some left hand thread 1/2" 20 studs. Ended up buying a couple more spherical rod ends with those threads and just cutting off the rod end. Then I welded that to a normal right hand thread bolt. Also fabbed up the upper mount with a welded stud for the top heim joint.
i really like the fact that ure reusing the stock sway bar mounting holes on the frame. I never understood why nobody (UMI BMR etc.) used the stock stuff like that. Makes it a lot eaiser instead of welding stuff. Good work!
I took the car out for a short drive yesterday. Everything felt solid and quiet and that sway bar is one stiff mutha. It takes a little getting used to driving it with that bar back there. The whole rear of the car feels more solid though, especially taking off from a dead stop. I don't get that rocking, mushy feeling taking off now.
When I got back from the first drive I set the preload per Spohn's suggestion. Going to take it out again today to see if it made any difference in the way it drives, launches etc.. For now, everything seems to be working great.
I want to get this thing to the track this weekend. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.
i really like the fact that ure reusing the stock sway bar mounting holes on the frame. I never understood why nobody (UMI BMR etc.) used the stock stuff like that. Makes it a lot eaiser instead of welding stuff. Good work!
UMI uses the stock holes just like this one, but the plate comes around the edge to help the bar not push forward and thus less stress on the bolts and threads.
But they still recommend a weld to secure it. This allows for people to DIY and then drive to a shop if they dont have a welder.
I took mine for a test drive and you can feel the diff. Personally before going to the track weld the plates to the chassis.
__________________ 2002 Navy Blue Metallic Trans Am.
Pullin both wheels w/ 1.75 60's
UMI uses the stock holes just like this one, but the plate comes around the edge to help the bar not push forward and thus less stress on the bolts and threads.
But they still recommend a weld to secure it. This allows for people to DIY and then drive to a shop if they dont have a welder.
I took mine for a test drive and you can feel the diff. Personally before going to the track weld the plates to the chassis.
i would think over time with the end links being bolted up you'd bend where it mounts to the car...reason i know is i have a wolfe sway bar and it ripped out from my frame rail....
i would think over time with the end links being bolted up you'd bend where it mounts to the car...reason i know is i have a wolfe sway bar and it ripped out from my frame rail....
Damn! What kind of 60' times were running with the car? Were they mostly wheels up launches?
I guess I'll consider beefing up that upper mount.
The good news is that the anti-sway bar did work, and did it's job. I'm processing some videos now that show the difference in launches from before and after. I'm slowing down the vids to show how level the car launches now in comparison to before the bar.
The bad news is that I had a bit too much preload on the anti-roll bar, so it was actually picking up the passenger side front end BEFORE the driver side. The other bad news is that it didn't help my 60' times like I had hoped, and the racing season is almost over here in the pacific northwest. The last track opening is next weekend, and that's only if the weather cooperates.
Sounds like you did a good job. I have the UMI one that is waiting install but I am in no hurry as the end of the season is near here too in the Midwest
__________________
1999 Trans Am
LME Forged 347 Shortblock, 11:1 Compression, 3.5 Mufflex Catback,
SLP Headers, 3.54 Gears, FAST 92/92, Nitro Dave's Plate Kit,
Fast Toys 98mm Lid, ATI Pulley, 3600 VIG, FLT Stage IV Trans,
SLP H.O., Strange S60, UMI Suspension
As you can see from the video's below, the DIY anti-roll bar does work. The car is most definitely in better form with the drag bar installed. Still need to tune the rest of the rear suspension, but it's getting there.
Here is a video of the car launching WITHOUT the anti-roll bar installed:
i did the same thing with my wolfe bar with the tubes triangulated to the rear end,they make great tie down points on the trailer
__________________ 99 camaro ls1,th400,bmr tubular front end,strange shocks,strange brakes,wolfe anti sway bar,burkhart lcas,billet specialties wheels
03 sierra denali,lifted n built k1500,01 01cbr929r stunter,01 CBR929R
Man must be an auto car!? It looks the the rim bottoms out on the tire, that is nuts! What is your 60ft time from the videos it look pretty good. I really couldnt tell the difference though between the two videos.
__________________
1999 Trans Am
LME Forged 347 Shortblock, 11:1 Compression, 3.5 Mufflex Catback,
SLP Headers, 3.54 Gears, FAST 92/92, Nitro Dave's Plate Kit,
Fast Toys 98mm Lid, ATI Pulley, 3600 VIG, FLT Stage IV Trans,
SLP H.O., Strange S60, UMI Suspension
As you can see from the video's below, the DIY anti-roll bar does work. The car is most definitely in better form with the drag bar installed. Still need to tune the rest of the rear suspension, but it's getting there.
Here is a video of the car launching WITHOUT the anti-roll bar installed:
And what torque arm..... Your car does what mine did before I made a crazy adjustable torque arm..... Hits hard, compresses the tire to the rim, then unloads...
__________________ 10.95 @ 125.61 1.46 60', best 60' 1.42 Granny shifting 2000 SS 6 speed Patriot Heads/ torquer II/ MONSTER Clutch (Stock pistons Not flycut, stock bearings, stock crank, stock rods, stock oil pump, stock main caps, ARP rodbolts!!!) 439 rwhp/ 394 trq Mustang Dyno Tuned By Brian @ Kaltechwww.kaltechtuning.com H/C combo for sale:http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-pa...sec-combo.html
I did this and he looked like it got some more movemnt. The shocks aren't being turned to be nertual - take the nut off and put the washer on the outside and the lock washer on the inside. Give some more movment on the lower mount But your look alot more, to much that little change would be enogh. How much pinion angle?
And what torque arm..... Your car does what mine did before I made a crazy adjustable torque arm..... Hits hard, compresses the tire to the rim, then unloads...
Tire pressure is 12psi. I've tried higher and lower pressures and the car seems to like 12 the best. The torque arm is a Spohn tunnel mount. I did make some new rotator plates, so I can adjust the front of the torque arm up about 2.25" from the stock location in .75" increments. Both of the vids shown above were with the t/a in the very bottom hole (stock hole). My car is lowered quite a bit also.
I did this and he looked like it got some more movemnt. The shocks aren't being turned to be nertual - take the nut off and put the washer on the outside and the lock washer on the inside. Give some more movment on the lower mount But your look alot more, to much that little change would be enogh. How much pinion angle?
Close, they're the Competition Engineering 3-way adjustables. I've thought about making a better bottom mount for those shocks so that they can rotate more easily in the mount, similar to a QA1 shock mount. Also, I have the shocks set on the firmest compression with loosest rebound in an effort to help keep the tires planted. Pinion angle is at -1 degree.
Tire pressure is 12psi. I've tried higher and lower pressures and the car seems to like 12 the best. The torque arm is a Spohn tunnel mount. I did make some new rotator plates, so I can adjust the front of the torque arm up about 2.25" from the stock location in .75" increments. Both of the vids shown above were with the t/a in the very bottom hole (stock hole). My car is lowered quite a bit also.
Close, they're the Competition Engineering 3-way adjustables. I've thought about making a better bottom mount for those shocks so that they can rotate more easily in the mount, similar to a QA1 shock mount. Also, I have the shocks set on the firmest compression with loosest rebound in an effort to help keep the tires planted. Pinion angle is at -1 degree.
Mike
Mike
I dont like most T/A's out there, my car launches best lower then those allow... Might be worth looking into.... I run 12 psi too its hitting them too hard and unloading, TA probably has to drop more, imo...
__________________ 10.95 @ 125.61 1.46 60', best 60' 1.42 Granny shifting 2000 SS 6 speed Patriot Heads/ torquer II/ MONSTER Clutch (Stock pistons Not flycut, stock bearings, stock crank, stock rods, stock oil pump, stock main caps, ARP rodbolts!!!) 439 rwhp/ 394 trq Mustang Dyno Tuned By Brian @ Kaltechwww.kaltechtuning.com H/C combo for sale:http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-pa...sec-combo.html
Man must be an auto car!? It looks the the rim bottoms out on the tire, that is nuts! What is your 60ft time from the videos it look pretty good. I really couldnt tell the difference though between the two videos.
Nope, it's a 6 speed. My best 60' has been 1.66, and that was when I got the 11.03 ET. But, I'm averaging about 1.70-1.74 now that the tracks are cold as ice. As for the difference in the two vids, notice in the first vid, the passenger side rear bumper goes lower than the driver side. In the second vid, the rear bumper comes down evenly. That shows that the anti-roll bar is doing it's job.
Super Light, ProCharged 6.0 build-------> 
Machine 
What kind of 60' times were running with the car? Were they mostly wheels up launches? 
I'm processing some videos now that show the difference in launches from before and after. I'm slowing down the vids to show how level the car launches now in comparison to before the bar. 
