some quick questions about my 10pt wolfe cage install!

4SFEDZ · 10-24-2009, 01:17 PM

ok, will i have to leave the top part of the dash in while i do the a pillar bars, or is there enough room to slide it in between the windshield and bars.

also will all the stock gauges go back in with the dash bar in?

also whats the best methods to weld the bar at the top of the windshield, and all the welds on the top of the main hoop? im bout to start mine and never done one before. any tips would be great!

jmill96Z · 10-24-2009, 01:44 PM

Pull the complete dash and pad out. Also, pull the entire interior out to include the headliner. There are different ways to get to the top, but with the T-Tops off and headliner removed, we were able to get to all of the top welds. Here's a pic of when I did mine.

4SFEDZ · 10-24-2009, 04:07 PM

so you were able to slide the top part of the dash back in? also how did you weld the bars goin to the trunk area to the min hoop?

DopeFedZ · 10-24-2009, 05:58 PM

I can take the dash pad in and out of my Camaro with the same cage. It flexes enough to go back in. The gauges won't hit anything either neither will the harness that goes to the back of the cluster.

jmill96Z · 10-25-2009, 04:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4SFEDZ

so you were able to slide the top part of the dash back in? also how did you weld the bars goin to the trunk area to the min hoop?

You can put the plastic dash pad back in. The easiest way to do it without risk of messing it up is to remove the windshield.

The top of the rear bars wasn't that bad. Between a nice flexible tip, bending the rod, and a mirror, it came out pretty nice.

kp · 10-25-2009, 09:54 AM

I did mine in two seperate steps, I tacked the windshield bar and dash bar, fit it to the main hoop, then tacked the rear down bars in. Slid the main hoop back and then let the front section pivot down and the dash/windshield bar was easy to weld.

Then I moved the main hoop forward, double checked the fit and welded the down bars. Then I welded the upper side window bars to the main hoop, it was a t-top car so it was pretty easy. Left the windshield in, the plastic top dash piece will bend in opposite direction you think it should and it will easily come in and out with the wolfe bars.

Few pics of how I did it, kind of hard to explain..

4SFEDZ · 10-25-2009, 02:26 PM

that exactly what i was thinkin kp!!!! thanks! what was thinkin is tack it like that then tack it to the plates, but dont weld the plates to the car yet, and just slide the plates! my car is a ttop car also so i should be able to get to those,

those pics are great!!!!! also i guess i need to paint what i can before i weld the window bars to the main hoop! thanks again!!!!

kp · 10-25-2009, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4SFEDZ

that exactly what i was thinkin kp!!!! thanks! what was thinkin is tack it like that then tack it to the plates, but dont weld the plates to the car yet, and just slide the plates! my car is a ttop car also so i should be able to get to those,

those pics are great!!!!! also i guess i need to paint what i can before i weld the window bars to the main hoop! thanks again!!!!

I should have welded the plates on the front downbar tubes first, those are the only tube to plates that were a bitch to weld for me. I also painted most of the cage except where the welds were out of the car and the front part while it was tilted down. Made the final painting a lot easier and less missed spots.

ninetres · 10-29-2009, 02:12 AM

Mine guages dont fit properly after mine was installed. We DID pull a 30hr straight work stretch getting the car ready for a race a few years back when we installed it. Its possible that we might have been able to have better under-dash clearance .....but none the less the cross bar pushes on my gauges so the mph/tach don;t move.

kp · 10-29-2009, 10:58 AM

I had no problem with the gauges/dash. I did cut quite a bit out of the metal under the LH a-pillar to get the cage as forward as much as I could. I also test fit the dash/cluster before I welded the dash bar in to make sure it wasnt interfering with anything.

4SFEDZ · 11-03-2009, 06:33 PM

ok ,got another question. what about welding the rocker bar, getting the bottom i might be able to lift it some, but i dont see any way of getting in between the rocker!

has anyone heard of putting a gussett anywhere you cant go all the way around?

chvypwr31 · 11-03-2009, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4SFEDZ

ok ,got another question. what about welding the rocker bar, getting the bottom i might be able to lift it some, but i dont see any way of getting in between the rocker!

has anyone heard of putting a gussett anywhere you cant go all the way around?

....x2

4SFEDZ · 11-04-2009, 09:51 AM

kp?????????? lol, u the man!

kp · 11-04-2009, 09:58 AM

I ddint do the rocker bar, stock floor and stock rockers = no need for it to get an NHRA 8.50 cert. I started out wanting to use it but it was definitely above my pay grade to weld that rocker bar in nicely.

Villain281H · 11-04-2009, 12:29 PM

the dash bar and rocker bar is not needed for an 8.50 and slower cert. if the firewall and floor are not modified.

Derek

csjta2 · 11-04-2009, 01:38 PM

I welded mine in, since it came with the cage.

What I did, got everything tacked in where I wanted it, then slid the cage back and raised it up. I got it to raise up about 3 inches, just enough to get all the way around the rocker bar.

It is my understanding if you cannnot weld all the way around the bar, you can add gussets, but you have to have atleast 70 percent of the bar welded.