senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

In this kind of weather last year car did 12.6@110mph. Now I have a ss3600 stall and tune for it no other changes. DA looks to be around the same as last year so Im thinking with the stall it will put me at 12.2 - 12.1. (considering same DA) If I get that close to 11s I might be kicking myself that I didnt make some other adjustments before went.
Questions...
Do you think ill be that close to 11s?
Should I make some changed before I go?
Would a sway bar removal get me .1-.2?
What do you think I should do?

Im also wondering how launching the car with the stall will be. Iv never tried it before. I imagine ill be playing around with tire pressure. I have 275 40 17 hoosier drs.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

From what I have read, I do not see anything adj like shocks. So basically your working on Tire PSI and driving style. To be honest, you want as much as the tire can handle. So this is where the Testing and Tuning comes in.

Doing a good burnout to clean off the rubber is a good start, and I have always kept a little tension on the throttle and on the 3rd yellow, mash it and see what happens. If you break loose, either finish the run or abort. IMO I would abort.

Then either dial down the pressure a few pounds and try again, same application of throttle and see what happens. IF you need to be more gentle with the throttle to get it to hook then you need to either add more suspension pieces or a different tire compound. If you get enough runs and have the opporunity to play with Tire PSI, then you will see how much MPH can change as tire PSI goes down and sometimes too little Pressure is not always a good thing.

Please update with results!

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for the reply
So you think at this point removing sway bar isnt the thing to do?

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

any weight will help for sure, just need to play with the converter and see where it works best at, whether you flash it or get up on the converter when coming outta the hole. GL

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Removing the sway will help, if you completely remove it. Weight off the nose is a good thing. It does change how the car handles. Is it a bad thing, not really but just be aware not to try taking a banking turn at 100 mph....

I think a baseline is in order and then you can go back for other adj. Having a rental day is ideal if you have tons of minor changes.

MY exp with my Auto cars is that they were pretty consistant so after a few runs, got kinda boring, but then I went and ran events and won a trophy so it all depends. The M6 I have now is more of a battle to improve myself. A little more rewarding.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If the 3600 converter behaves like the 3200 does (just looser) you will likly have the best results getting the car up to about 1000 rpm on the footbrake and punching it.

Try a couple things, and just write everything down, keep the time slips so you can evaluate what you did and the effects.

Weight wise take anything out you can live with removing.... your call on how much you want to do... and if you want #'s the way you drive the car all the time or in a gutted state that gets put back.

12.2 would be my guess... if ya put some gears in the car it's going to wake up alot...

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for the replys guys.
Ill leave the car as is for now and see how im gonna be able to launch the car. What air pressure do you suggest I start out with? Hoosier drs.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Mid to low 20's, Pump the fronts to 40-45, i.e. Rock hard, make sure to deflate when you leave.

T6Rocket

17 psi on the Hoosiers. I have tried 20-22 psi before on various DR's, and they just dont hook for me.

Al

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

Pull the sway bar. My SS4000 is happiest leaving at 3200, flashing to 4400-4500. Try just taking the slack out of the driveline first, and keep upping the launch RPM until you get your best. Fronts at the highest PSI listed on the sidewall 45-60, rears i'd start at 18 cold.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for all the help. It was just total fail tonight lol. I tried twice. Couldnt even get off the line. Just blew the tires and gave up lol. It was very damp up there. Think my best bet is wait till warmer weather and wait till new track is broken in a little.

Is there a learning curve to launching a car with a higher stall? I cant just go wot anymore like I did with stock stall?

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

Not sure what tires you run but you should be able to launch an auto full out on a good track. Play with tire pressure, launch rpm, etc. once the track comes around.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

They are 274 40 17 hoosier drs and I tried 25lbs and 20lbs. The track sucked bigtime. Water everywhere. At the line the car didnt even move when I punched it. All it did was spin.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

25 psi isn't going to work well, I start at 20 max and work my way down to 17 if needed. just make sure you do a decent burnout and stall the converter up as high as it'll go first the more you footbrake it the more it'll load the drivetrain and not shock it like a straight flash off idle.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

FYI there is no Magic number when it comes to any pressure or setting. Every car is different and each needs what works best for them given the track conditions and set up of the car.

Be that said, I would invest in line loc to make it easier for burnouts. Its more consistant and less stress on the driveline.

Could have very well been the track or the tire psi, thats why you gotta spend time and logging all your data. Your stall is not all that crazy either so imagine something in the mid 4000's

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you were at ned last night... then it was most likly the track. With the rain, cold weather, probably absolutely no vht down like usual during the week.. you didn't stand a chance LOL.

Put it this way.. did you see anything pull the tires off the ground last night? if the answer is no.. then there ya go.

That tire is going to want about 17 to 18, no more no less... that's just where they are happy. Line lock should be the first mod after frame connectors. I've seen cars with stock suspension parts hook with more power then you're making.. so it's not the tire or the suspension... it's the track/tire pressure if anything. And no, you still absolutely mash the gas for all it's worth. Guys inthe x275 class run that hoosier tire in to the 1.1x 60 foo times.. they're making 1200+ hp, if you can't hook on it then there's something wrong. @ ned... it's the track prep during the week.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Lots of good help from you guys thanks!
I will keep the 17-18 psi in mind thanks for that jl...and heck no there was nothing pulling off the ground last night lol. Saw a guy with a mustang with good size slicks hook on the line, then after about a foot or so started to go sideways so he let out. So yes I see what a joke it was to even go up there but I didnt know it was gonna be like that wow!
Its suposed to be nothing but sun up there from now through tomorrow. Do you think its wise to try tomorrow night? Forcast is just beautiful.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You could try... problem, is wether the track decides it wants to spend a couple bucks and put some VHT down....

They're pretty cheap with that stuff up there during the week. Come weekend race day they do a pretty good job.... but during the week it's a joke.

Lebannon valley, same deal. You go on a saturday or sunday event day.. and the track os generally pretty good. Wednesday ricer night, it's a joke. If you're not the first or 2nd car down, by the time you're ready to make a run, the ricers have already dragged water the whole way down the track and you're wasting your time, taking a chance really of wrecking your car for nothing.

I don't even entertain the thought of going to the track on a weekday anymore unless it's a private rental and you know they paid for the track prep.