Location: In the garage, working towards a 2900 lb raceweight :D
Posts: 10,769
Quote:
Originally Posted by StreetStalkerZ
Funny you mentioned that because after i talked to you through pm's about my QA1 settings i went to a local 1000ft. track and was not exspecting what i got. It was a eye opener in it's self but i learned the stock rear swaybar was no match for the launch so now im buying time to get a drag sway bar and heading back. I had major twist happening and spun the tires as the car was up in the air so i backed out of it then hammered the throttle again after it set down and pulled them higher the second time Now i know what it's like when people talk about this.
Sorry LOL, didn't mean to dial ya in with a wheelie setup!
Drag swaybar will get it nice and level , I personally put a wolfe on my car, and I am very happy with the results, but the TRZ one looks pretty nice too.
The strait bar style IMO are the way to go.
I'm now putting limiters on the front of my car, and the next time out I'm gonna put another lb of air in the rear tires too.
I saw Tim Tosto post up this vid of this Stock Eliminator car doing a huge wheel stand running a 10.30 that's not ungodly fast by any means but I would love to get my wheels up in the air like this. So what do you use and how do you get your all's cars to pull decent wheelstands beside a healthy motor?
Well the Stockers do it with a ton of converter (5000+), a 200R4 tranny (light), .513 gears, scaled and fully suspended. Granted, their cars run on a minimum weight requirement...depending on class....with the average being around 3200lbs.
That guy is definetly used to it though...he never lifted. The suspension has to be dead on too to keep the car straight for being in the air that long.
__________________ '97 WS6 Basically Stock.......except for the BRE cam, injectors, converter, gears, headers and tune I have two hobbies...golf and drag racing. So it's safe to say that I get to the course alot faster than most people...
heck what setup can i do to just lift the front wheels? i'm not really worried bout wheelies. full weight car, bmr adj torque arm, qa1's, wolfe anti roll bar, etc.. and a 3800 stall, 3.50 gears.
heck what setup can i do to just lift the front wheels? i'm not really worried bout wheelies. full weight car, bmr adj torque arm, qa1's, wolfe anti roll bar, etc.. and a 3800 stall, 3.50 gears.
The only thing I see you don't have listed is LCA relocation brackets. If you don't have them, your IC might be too far forward for hard tire planting.
__________________ 2002 WS6, 408, BB cam and Dart 225's, AR LT's, catted Y, Borlamouth, A4, SS3600, S60, TTIIs, 315 M/T's DR, etc .. N/A; 1/4 10.99 @ 122 w/ 1.52 60' .. full weight+! Traded for a 1967 PT Camaro looking for 10's again
i forgot to put that. i do have relocation brackets. whats IC? i'm learning here.
IC means instant center, it is the imaginary point where the angle of the torque arm and angle of the lower control arms would continue until they cross at some point.
__________________ Black 1998 Camaro Z28 Currently under construction tin can with 4 wheels
Email:CHRISTOPHERMORALES@HOTMAIL.COM www.fquick.com/RAGEN98Z28
heck what setup can i do to just lift the front wheels? i'm not really worried bout wheelies. full weight car, bmr adj torque arm, qa1's, wolfe anti roll bar, etc.. and a 3800 stall, 3.50 gears.
You'd set the front shocks at full lose, then get the car to hit the tire as hard as possible without spinning. With an auto of course you'd need enough power, you can get the front tires up on a stock car with chassis work if you are dumping the clutch at 5,500+ more like a little bunny hop though
Nitrous always helps
__________________ Black 1998 Camaro Z28 Currently under construction tin can with 4 wheels
Email:CHRISTOPHERMORALES@HOTMAIL.COM www.fquick.com/RAGEN98Z28
You'd set the front shocks at full lose, then get the car to hit the tire as hard as possible without spinning. With an auto of course you'd need enough power, you can get the front tires up on a stock car with chassis work if you are dumping the clutch at 5,500+ more like a little bunny hop though
Nitrous always helps
And that's the part I like, nitrous always helps.
__________________ 94Z28, full bolt-ons, LE heads and 222/226 Joe O. cam, Wolfe CM 6-point, Nitro Daves plate kit (140 shot), Yank SS3600, 3.73s, Bogart wheels, MT tires. 11.88 @114mph NA, 10.75 @ 125mph juiced w/factory shortblock, trans, and 10 bolt.
I've seen cars leave like shit on the motor like a couple inches, add some nitrous that shits on the bumper lol.
__________________ Black 1998 Camaro Z28 Currently under construction tin can with 4 wheels
Email:CHRISTOPHERMORALES@HOTMAIL.COM www.fquick.com/RAGEN98Z28
I've seen cars leave like shit on the motor like a couple inches, add some nitrous that shits on the bumper lol
That's what i'm worried about. My car pulled the wheels about a foot to 15 inches on motor leaving on the brake at 4K....... we plan on hitting it with as big of a first stage as we can.... most likely 250-300hp..... that one foot is gonna quickly turn into 7 feet...... with that much torque and that much hook... my tires spun only once out of 5 passes more due to a bad burnout than anything else....
guess madman will get a call for his travel limiters.....
__________________ THE OUTLAW
1995 Camaro Z28 1LE West Coasts Fastest LT1 period.. CSM Racing Engines 383 LT1, AFR 227's, SR Cam, Jesel shaft rockers, Lunati crank, Oliver rods, sngl plane, Accufab TB, Nitrous Pro Flow plate, ATI TH400, Moser 9", FAST XFI
10.62@128 all motor
9.06@153.8, 1.35 60' ft on the bottle, 5.76 1/8th mile (aborted 8 second pass )
My youtube videos here--->http://www.youtube.com/user/tensecLT1
Location: In the garage, working towards a 2900 lb raceweight :D
Posts: 10,769
Be worried about that, be VERY worried.
See that picture in my sig, guess what that was last sunday, car leaves with the front tires about 6 to 8 inches in the air for about a foot then settles right down.
100 shot the car pulls the tires about a foot and a half, and rode that out for about 20 to 30 feet and set down nice.
150 shot put it on the bumper. Luckily, I caught it on the way up, let out and as soon as it started to coem back down I stabbed the gas and carried it out some, one little flat spot on one header primary, couple friction burn marks on the inner fender liners, and 2 penny sized rub marks on the stock k member and that was it.
Travel limiters be here tomorrow, needless to say they're going on before I even attempt to run the car again.
Dont think that Limiters are the end to all your problems.
With the limiters set to 1" of travel (pretty tight) My car still tried to go to the bumper, I caught it early and only put a small crack in the pan.
It went from doing 1' wheelies to the bumper with no change in the susp. just 1 jet size down on the kit BAM! Same track 1/2 hour later.
All I can say is BABY STEPS.
__________________ Gangsta motor .... under constuction.
Thanks to Applied Nitrous Technology, Performance Induction Specialties, Kooks headers, Madman and Glen Burnie Racing!
ATV, I"m not putting any more jet to it then the 100's until I know it's gonna leave in a safe manner with them.
They're gonna get set to 3 inches of downtravel to start and I'm gonna put the shocks back to where I had them when it stood up, add 1 lb of air to the rear tires (up to 14 before the burnout) and put it right up on the converter with the 100 jets in it, and see what it does.
I want to try stiffening up the shocks too, I'd actually like to go one round stiffer on all 4 and keep going until I see it start to leave worse. I've been running it with the fronts on 4 and the rears on 4left rear 5 right rear, that's what stood it up, but think the 70 lbs that went in the trunk and the 140 that came off the nose is what caused all this.
I know Guess Who had said he had the shocks all the way up to 12 on the rears and the fronts wee on 8, that's WAY stiff from where I have always run them, but that car leaves like mad.
my car dosent make enough power to put it on the bumper or even pull the whell 1'. but i would like it to do a small whellie, just to say that it does. ita a cam only car so i can dump the clutch kinda high, im at 5k dumps now and the rear squats hard and teh front lifts up but still no air under the tires. its got a torque arm, lower control arms, sub frame connerctors, e/t streets, 3.90s, stock 16x8 wheels up front and stock shocks and springs front and rear. i was wondering of what would be the next part to buy to help get the wheels up?
IC means instant center, it is the imaginary point where the angle of the torque arm and angle of the lower control arms would continue until they cross at some point.
What if the torque arm is pointing down from rear to front and the lca's are pointing up from rear to front, they'll never meet, does it effect anything negatively? My torque arm front mount is in the lowest hole and actually points down, and my lca's are one hole lower than stock to get the 2 - 3 degree angle down from frame to rearend. I'm still pullin the wheels sky high and can't figure it out!
ATV, I"m not putting any more jet to it then the 100's until I know it's gonna leave in a safe manner with them.
They're gonna get set to 3 inches of downtravel to start and I'm gonna put the shocks back to where I had them when it stood up, add 1 lb of air to the rear tires (up to 14 before the burnout) and put it right up on the converter with the 100 jets in it, and see what it does.
I want to try stiffening up the shocks too, I'd actually like to go one round stiffer on all 4 and keep going until I see it start to leave worse. I've been running it with the fronts on 4 and the rears on 4left rear 5 right rear, that's what stood it up, but think the 70 lbs that went in the trunk and the 140 that came off the nose is what caused all this.
I know Guess Who had said he had the shocks all the way up to 12 on the rears and the fronts wee on 8, that's WAY stiff from where I have always run them, but that car leaves like mad.
Needless to say, I have some experimenting to do.
The stiffer you have the rear shocks, the harder it's gonna stand up, with the shocks any lower than 7 on my car in the rear, the rear squats and absorbs some of the hit instead of plantin the tires into the ground and kept the car down some, but it 60'd worse. I may play with it some more and try and give it some squat and hit it with more nitrous to make up the time, maybe put bigger jets in and leave on 100% on the controller and ramp down to the shot I want after, dunno.
Now i know what it's like when people talk about this.
94Z28, full bolt-ons, LE heads and 222/226 Joe O. cam, Wolfe CM 6-point, Nitro Daves plate kit (140 shot), Yank SS3600, 3.73s, Bogart wheels, MT tires. 11.88 @114mph NA, 10.75 @ 125mph juiced w/factory shortblock, trans, and 10 bolt. 
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