Why give up any power? This setup drives amazing and still knocks down 28 mpg on the highway while sounding like a big cam. This setup was not intended to make big hp numbers but to make great aveage power and torque for a daily driver while still sounding lopey. I did all of the tuning on my own and I only was allowed 3 runs so I am pretty sure it has a little more in it but I dont care. Its also begging for an intake with around 3 kpa drop on the map. I am very pleased with the setup and I know there is more in it. The cutout may have gained around 10hp Im not sure because I got the 4 degrees of knock retard out and changed the total timing up top from 24 to 27. I also went from 12.8 to 13.0 AFR on the last run as seen in the graph with the 3 runs.
Mods Before:
Ebay headers with homemade catless y-pipe
Self ported TB
LS1 Intake
Heavy LS7 Clutch! (worth around 10hp?)
Stock 10 bolt 3:42 gears
Heavy 17" ZR1 wheels
Hptuners and wideband
I added a LS6 intake, 243 heads (11:1 compression) with a 5 angle valve job I did and a custom BRE cam. I pulled it to 6500 but the graph doesn't show it, it was within 2hp from 6000 to 6500 rpm. Also welded in a $30 summit 3.5" cutout.
I would like to thank Bret from BRE for all the help and info he provided. He gave me exactly what I wanted with a perfect streetable setup that will not beat the crap out of my valvetrain.
I will let the graph do the rest of the speaking
When I first dynoed my car they gave me STD numbers. The gains are the same SAE or STD that is why you dyno. If all I wanted was a number I would never have done a baseline. I only ran the car 3 pulls so its not like I was going for max power just wanted a reference. Anyways here are the SAE numbers.
Green run: 12.8 afr around 22-24 timing
Red run: 12.8 but got 4 degrees of knock retard at 4000 rpm.
Blue run: 13.0 afr and went from 20 up to 27 timing with cutout open.
TTT for a fresh start. Your other thread was out of hand due to other members, I apologize for their childish misbehavior on here. The thread was not deleted, but is moved into a locked forum for admin to view.
As an example to others:
Good numbers; I would expect it to drive around nicely and have a strong torque curve typical of camshafts in the 220ish range. It looks like your A/F is leaner due to the sampling probe being in the muffler with the cutout open.
TTT for a fresh start. Your other thread was out of hand due to other members, I apologize for their childish misbehavior on here. The thread was not deleted, but is moved into a locked forum for admin to view.
As an example to others:
Good numbers; I would expect it to drive around nicely and have a strong torque curve typical of camshafts in the 220ish range. It looks like your A/F is leaner due to the sampling probe being in the muffler with the cutout open.
TTT for a fresh start. Your other thread was out of hand due to other members, I apologize for their childish misbehavior on here. The thread was not deleted, but is moved into a locked forum for admin to view.
As an example to others:
Good numbers; I would expect it to drive around nicely and have a strong torque curve typical of camshafts in the 220ish range. It looks like your A/F is leaner due to the sampling probe being in the muffler with the cutout open.
Thanks alot I really appreciate it, I was just trying to spread a little info on how you dont need a big cam and an exspensive set of heads to make good power.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greatskiiiier
ya A/F ratio is wayyyyy too lean for my liking, even if your going to lose some HP id rich-en that up before something goes boom
On my wideband the blue run as 13.0-13.1 AFR, that run was with the cutout open and the dyno wideband was in the tail pipe. Seems to be reading a little bit lean as a result.
Thanks alot guys, I'm heading to the track today, lets see if I can spin to the 1/8th mile again Well its a custom BRE cam, but its a mid 220's duration cam.
Update: Just discovered my factory dual dual exhaust has the "ring of silence" in the drivers side tail pipe. I am going to cut it out tomorrow. That would explain why the cutout gained so much. It's basically a noise emissions reducer ring that necks down to 3/8" diameter in the drivers tail pipe. I bet it will sound a lot better at idle too!
Well I almost totaled the car last night at the track. Banged 3rd and it instantly went up to 105 mph of tire spin, tried to pedal it 1 too many times and ended up driving backwards at 100mph down the track. I have never driven backwards that fast using my rear view mirror. I still ended up hitting the wall as the thing never stopped sliding, only hit the wall pretty slow. Either way that was my 9" + drag radial money that is now going into body work Shitty thing they just got done mopping the track before I ran. Not happy it happened but I thought for sure it was going to be totaled. Atleast its still in 1 piece.
It does suck but atleast its not totaled and I didn't get hurt. It could have been so much worse. I have noticed the knock sensors seem to over compensate when they sense knock. I removed 2 degrees of timing from 4000-4800 rpm.
Thanks alot guys, it took me about 2 days for it to really sink in on what actually happened. I kept having to ask my friends if that really just happened! I blame it all on the cam, haha too much torque! I got the headlight back into position and the damage doesn't look too bad, I'm still driving it. The front bumper was chipped up and needed paint anyways!
if you havn't wrecked at the track or come close then you aren't pushing hard enough. don't feel bad man, part of the entrance fee to having a bad ass car like yours and being able to boss around 99% of cars on the street. i've wrecked a few myself too btw. if it were me i'd probably just do the bodywork myself so you could afford the rear end. breaking an axle at 70mph can easily result in a similar outcome and cars with scars are fuckin tough looking anyway. hah. my car has its own collection...lol
i'll be looking to build something really similar to your car but with stock cam and ported ls6 heads and probably a FAST intake too if i can swing the money but with MAC mid headers. hoping for 400rwhp or so which shouldn't be too had since i've seen c5 zo6's on here with 400rwhp with only bolt ons.
sick setup man, looking forward to seeing more track times.
__________________ WTB: MAC mid headers and Y pipe, 85mm Throttle Body, magnaflow muffler, cheap ls6 intake with kit to install on 2000 ls1 z28
The no compromise budget setup 80hp / 53tq 
Well its a custom BRE cam, but its a mid 220's duration cam. 
Shitty thing they just got done mopping the track before I ran. Not happy it happened but I thought for sure it was going to be totaled. Atleast its still in 1 piece.
