Yes the success is alot from the tune, some common sense and probably a little luck. Mine has complete stock long block and no breakage. I did have to catch the cam bolts that almost backed out after boosting, and put em back with loc-tite. I've had plenty of driveline issues.
Good tune and fuel and the rods will go first. Dave has been at 825whp with his Lq9 for 3k mi or so (one season, w/ a couple of dry street winter rides already lol).
X2! I went 10.59, and have run 130+ MPH in my 5000LB 2003 4x4 at 5000' elevation with a stock bottom end 01 6.0L. After the 10.59 run @13psi in Las vegas I turned the boost up to 16psi and the rods failed. Bearings, and even #7 piston were still in good shape.
-01 6.0L
-Hand ported 317's stock valves
-ARP hesd studs, GM gaskets
-Trick T76 @14~15PSI
-91 octaine+ Meth
Holy crap. I have never seen a rod bent that way. How did you know the rod failed? Was it knocking or what?
Yes it had a wierd knock and a limp after hitting 18PSI for a short burst on the way to the track. When I got to the track I turned it down to 13psi and made a pass knock wasn't any louder so I turned it up to 16psi and it threw 3 rods at 1/2 track. The knock I was hearing was the pistons hitting the crankshaft counter weights due to the shortend rods. The other 5 rods that were still in the engine were all bent about the same amount.
Damn those are good carnage pics! That is a lot of weight to push down the track. No wonder the rods said, "Screw it, we've had enough...I'm out!"
Sweet ride.
Thank's! Yah I think the weight, and the drive PSI I have up here at 7000' elv taxes an engine. The wastegate is completly closed to make 14~15psi up here. Las vegas is low elevation to me
Type Of Forced Induction: Procharger D1SC
Boost Amount / RWHP: 8 lbs / 475 (Mustang dyno)
Miles on the car when FI installed: 48000
Miles ran since FI installed: 6000
Bone stock '01 long block.
Only thing I have wrecked so far is the stock clutch. That went out at about 4500 miles. Hopefully the rear end will last long enough before putting a 9" in it.
__________________ 2001 Sunset Orange Metallic WS6 Procharged, 8lbs at 5800rpms, before the SDCE tensioner setup
475 rwhp at 5800 (shut off at 5800, still rising)
452 rwtq at 5000 2009 Stryker Blue Metallic G8 GT Daily driver, stock
- Type of Forced Induction: STS rear mount
- Boost Amount / RWHP: 5-8psi, 500 rwhp
- Miles on the car when FI installed: 61k
- Miles ran since FI has been on the car: 14k, 2 years
When I first bought my car new I drove it straight home and installed the D1sc blower kit that was waiting at home. I read on this site for two years before I did anything. OK D1sc at first 10# boost and a m15 meth jet at 612rw and 519tq installed at 26 miles. Later I upped the boost to 12# and added a fmic and another meth jet which gave me 651rw 561tq and it now has 11453 miles. I have not broken anything, I street race a little but from a roll only, and If I think I might see some people and its hot out and its the weekend I will get some 100 octane.
I guess a lot of these combinations are mercy to the condition of the block in the first place. For instance, my car has about 90k on it. I wouldn't attempt to boost my stock bottom end. Some cars with say 20k on the clock are basically "brand new". The problem then comes up when greed outweighs reality and going from say ~8 to ~10 psi could mean the difference in power to make a stock engine have failure. Some cars might survive on 12psi whereas some will fail at 6psi. It's all relative. When I end up going forced induction, I am just going to wait until I can build a motor. If money permits, someone will build it for me. Otherwise I will learn to do it myself.
__________________
1998 Artic White T/A M6 H/C FQuick/Pics
1999 Artic White Z28 M6 SOLD FQuick/Pics
I guess a lot of these combinations are mercy to the condition of the block in the first place. For instance, my car has about 90k on it. I wouldn't attempt to boost my stock bottom end. Some cars with say 20k on the clock are basically "brand new". The problem then comes up when greed outweighs reality and going from say ~8 to ~10 psi could mean the difference in power to make a stock engine have failure. Some cars might survive on 12psi whereas some will fail at 6psi. It's all relative. When I end up going forced induction, I am just going to wait until I can build a motor. If money permits, someone will build it for me. Otherwise I will learn to do it myself.
ya thats a good idea with the built motor i just done the stage 2 hp performance turbo kit on mine 67mm 9psi made 548hp 618 tq on a dyno jet dyno and i drove the car maybe 800 miles i did the arp 2000 rod bolts and head bolts like they say to do but rod bolts dont help pistons
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98 z28
hp performance turbo kit
th400
12 bolt
all suspension
370ci on the way
- Type of Forced Induction: PTS kit w/67mm
- Boost Amount / RWHP: 7psi, 507rwhp through T56(was running 8psi after changing to th400)
- Miles on the car when FI installed: 35k
- Miles ran since FI has been on the car: 15k, 2 years
Stock bottom end with an aftermarket cam. Stock heads with upgraded valve springs. Engine ran fine until I went to a 78mm. Car hit 11psi on the dyno and spun a rod bearing last Tuesday.
__________________ 02' WS6 #10502, M6, little here, little there.
10.89@122 w/1.52 60'
a few bells and a whistle!??
When I first bought my car new I drove it straight home and installed the D1sc blower kit that was waiting at home. I read on this site for two years before I did anything. OK D1sc at first 10# boost and a m15 meth jet at 612rw and 519tq installed at 26 miles.
Now that kicks ass. Buy it, drive and home and put a blower on it.
1999 Camaro SS- 347 LS1, Patriot StII LQ9 heads, ARP head bolts, EPP blower cam, JP timing chain, COMP pushrods, Melling HV oil pump, FAST 90 intake, PTM 90mm TB, Hooker LT, Mototron 60lb injectors, ATI balancer, Procharger @8psi, Textrailia OZ700 565RWHP/503RWTQ 
. When I got to the track I turned it down to 13psi and made a pass knock wasn't any louder so I turned it up to 16psi and it threw 3 rods at 1/2 track. The knock I was hearing was the pistons hitting the crankshaft counter weights due to the shortend rods. The other 5 rods that were still in the engine were all bent about the same amount.
